2006 210 Ballast set up

[dompate]

Hi , i just bought a 2006 210 SANTE , i always ride with newer 210 so i dont know what this old 210 will do !!
for my winter project i want to put extra ballast bag for wake surf but not on seat and i want to use OEM ballast pump to fill them.
My idea was to
take of rear hard tank and put a 750 lbs ( surf side ) a put a front integrated ballast bag and fill it with belly pump !
Did someone know if its gonna be enough for a good wake ? i dont expect to have a G serie wake but just a clean one

Or i put 2 rear 750 with a surf gate is better ??

thank

[XBIGPUN66]

Remove rear tanks. 2x 1100 bags in back. 1100 piggy back bag under front seats. Leave center tank installed.

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[dompate]

Ok , did you fill both rear and use a surf gate ? or only the surf side with belly and front fill ?
Thank

[seth]

Remove rear tanks. 2x 1100 bags in back. 1100 piggy back bag under front seats. Leave center tank installed.

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He has an 06 210, 1100's aren't fitting anywhere in that boat. Remove hard tanks and put 750's on both sides. You will have to cut out the cooler in the nose to get the integrated bow sack in there or you could put a bunch of lead in the nose. I would think the surf gate thing would be the way to go. You will definitely need more weight up front if you put the 750's in the back.

[XBIGPUN66]

I had a 2004 with three 1100s plus the belly tank. It worked great. Had to remove the built in cooler in the bow.

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[dompate]

ok i will try this !
Thank you

[Agowen]

You will be happy with running a surf gate and filling both sides. You might have to upgrade the prop. For the bow I use lead I found that anything over 300 lb in bow is not needed.


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[dompate]

Ok good thank you !

[rlwagens]

I have an 06 210 and upgraded the ballast using the factory pumps and you are not going to fit 1100s anywhere in that boat. In the rear take out the hard tanks and replace with 750# fat sacs (I used fly highs because used ones are up for sale constantly). When full we have room for about 10-12 life jackets/floaties on top of the sacs and our ropes. Eventually will need to reinforce the engine dividers with these: https://www.wakemakers.com/engine-di...nel-saver.html or make your own, they will push in on the engine dividers and eventually start popping them loose from the channel they sit in. The only negative is that you have to zip tie the ballast senders in the full position with the float all the way up so the pumps will fill, then when emptying the bags the pumps obviously can't automatically shut off so you need to listen for the pumps to start to run dry. We adapted pretty well and I can hear it now even with music playing pretty loud. Eventually I will can the ballast sender setup so it can auto detect again in-line with the ballast hose or something.

For the bow I bought this: https://www.wakemakers.com/nautique-...m-upgrade.html to piggyback off the belly tank and cut out the bow cooler (that is totally worthless anyways) and put in the straight line sumo 500# bow bag. Hard to find those used, most everyone bought the bigger fly high bow sac for 210s, but per wakemakers this one was actually made to fit when nearly full and their right, when its about full the bow seats still begin to push up but its not too bad. It is nice to get extra hose and put in a check valve because sometimes the bow bag can collapse in a weird position when draining and belly tank will not vent properly and start to collapse unless you quick disconnect the hose between the bow bag and belly tank when emptying to vent and then hook it back up when filling, which kinda defeats the purpose of an "automatic system."

You end up with a conservative estimate of 400-450# in the bow and 350# in the belly off the stock pump, then 1500# in the rear. FYI the best surfing we usually have is the bow and belly completely full and the rears maybe 3/4 with about 2 people in the bow and 6 or so in the cabin. The amazon skateboard ramp and velcro is by far the best surf wake, but we switched to the suckgate design thats in the big thread here and its still sufficient enough that I never want velcro on the boat again.

Hopefully that all makes sense. But really unless you add lead on top of off that, if you use any bigger bags than the 750s/500 you will A) have absolutely not storage left in the boat or B) wasted money on bags that will not fill all the way anyways.

[dompate]

Thank for the good advise ! for your ballast pump , you can bypass the dry sensor and your pump will never stop , i can send you a copy if you want to ( very easy )
wich suckgate size the best ?
Thank

[rlwagens]

Yeah we bypassed the sensor on our rears so they never stop, but they end up running dry if you don't listen for the sound to change or check the bag. It wouldn't be hard to make a new pickup system so it can shut the pump off when the bags are dry but speaker upgrades keep taking up all my free time.

I use an exact replica of nr2041's design posted here: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...364#post488364

It works so well we never bothered tweaking the design. Again, if you want sheer performance industrial velcro and this: http://a.co/1kuPIDv have been the best results we have gotten but the suckgate still works for pop shuvs/360s and getting beginners into the sweet spot easy enough so far. We run 9.5 with our byerly volt and 9.8 with an inland surfer sweet spot.


BTW we repropped to the 1579 as well for surfing and wakeboarding when the ballast is loaded all day. It will still get on plane with the stock 645 but it takes a good effort and some people in the bow. With the 1579 boat tends to reach 28-30mph at 4000rpm if I remember correctly.

[dompate]

ok thank

[CharlieP]

In case any of you guys still have your pre 2006s SANs. I have a 2006 210 and we have a HUGE wave off the back now. Here is our setup thanks to past advice here and some trial and error of our own. It's as perfect as it gets.

https://www.wakemakers.com/eight-3-p...y-ctn-800.html
These fit the rear lockers like a glove and allow for 2 lifejackets on each side on top still. I love the trapezoidal shape which doesn't cave in the boards or press against the breaker box.

https://www.wakemakers.com/straight-...-750-2016.html
Cut the cooler out. Didn't use it anyway. Throw the anchor under the radio.

https://www.wakemakers.com/launch-pad-540-twins.html
Cheap weight to throw around in when we don't have a full boat of people.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SURF-TYPHOO...e/152994622462
Our surf gates. 1/3-1/4 the cost of brand names. Work awesome.

http://www.nettleprops.com/store/p/2...e-105-Cup.aspx
1235 ACME Prop. JUST fits our 2006. No gelcoat burn after 25 hours of use. Incredible difference off stock.
The 1433 Is it's smaller brother, if you need a little more wiggle room. .50" less diameter.
http://www.nettleprops.com/store/p/3...e-105-Cup.aspx

[dompate]

thank you but i sold it
Thank

[JAppler]

Yeah we bypassed the sensor on our rears so they never stop, but they end up running dry if you don't listen for the sound to change or check the bag. It wouldn't be hard to make a new pickup system so it can shut the pump off when the bags are dry but speaker upgrades keep taking up all my free time.

I use an exact replica of nr2041's design posted here: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...364#post488364

It works so well we never bothered tweaking the design. Again, if you want sheer performance industrial velcro and this: http://a.co/1kuPIDv have been the best results we have gotten but the suckgate still works for pop shuvs/360s and getting beginners into the sweet spot easy enough so far. We run 9.5 with our byerly volt and 9.8 with an inland surfer sweet spot.


BTW we repropped to the 1579 as well for surfing and wakeboarding when the ballast is loaded all day. It will still get on plane with the stock 645 but it takes a good effort and some people in the bow. With the 1579 boat tends to reach 28-30mph at 4000rpm if I remember correctly.

How do you bypass the sensor?


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