2001 SAN with ballast system to remove or not?

[jbgregory]

just inherited 2001 SAN with 350 hours and need to replace steering cable, do I really need to remove gas tank and ballast to access???.

figure if have to do that, and ballast is always going to be problematic, why not just remove it now and convert to fat sacs?

as far as I can tell, ballast system works except for dash gauges. how difficult is it to fix those?

any advice much appreciated.

[NautiqueJeff]

Removing the rear tanks is not that bad.

Most likely cause of gauges not working is bent senders. If someone stood on the tanks at some point, the sending units can get bent and not allow the float to move properly.

[jbgregory]

Jeff read your whole posting. The time and detail spent was impressive but also overwhelming. Thanks for sharing. Would you do it all again?? Or would you just convert? What are pros on preserving tanks?



How easy is it to access sending units to take a look?

[NautiqueJeff]

I've never restored a 210, but if I did, I would keep the tanks.

Removing the sending units is easy. They are right on top of the tanks.

Replacements are available here:

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...-parts/page/2/

[Stevemo14]

I just Restored my 05 210, and did alot of theses things.

For the Steering Cable I did the following, and had a buddy's help.

1. Cut the existing cable at the helm about 2 ft to the right of the steering box
2. Tape the crap out of the old cable to the new cable. Shaft End to the Cut End. I think i used 1 roll of electrical tape ( and it still broke )
3. Remove the starboard hard tank, and the engine divider. ( Heat gun helps with the tank hose removal )
4. Undo the steering cable from the rudder ( 1 bolt ) and the retaining nut at the end cable shaft
5. Undo the Fuel Tank Straps, and prop up on the starboard rear corner of the fuel tank to reveal the PVC guide tube for the cables ( Steering, Shift, Throttle )
   • I used a few small pieces of cut 2x4 to prop it up. Having a second pair of hands is nice here.
6. Feed the new cable down the opening behind the helm. It helps to have a friend pull cable from the rear while you feed it down. The turn to get into the PVC pipe is the hardest Part
7. At this point the bale may get bound up at the exit of the PVC pipe by the rear of the Fuel tank. do not use force, but work it back and forth till the large retaining nut passes through. This part took me a while, and where i broke the tape.
8. Once the cable is past that point you just hook it all up the way you took it apart.

After i did this i put the tank back in, but just recently removed the tanks for Ronix 800# sacs, and wish i did it from the start. You get so much more storage, even when the bags are full, and you get much more weight. Its a no brainer IMO.

I did a bunch of other stuff during my restoration, if you have any questions let me know and i will gladly help if i can.

[Luebowski]

I pulled the hard tanks on my 2004 two years ago and never looked back. If you want to surf at all you will need more ballast than the factory tanks provide. I did the bags in the rear and 2 Wakemakers reversible pumps. They built my cart on their site and then I waited till black Friday and hit order for 20% off - came out to about $850 with the discount.

[JAppler]

I just Restored my 05 210, and did alot of theses things.

For the Steering Cable I did the following, and had a buddy's help.

1. Cut the existing cable at the helm about 2 ft to the right of the steering box
2. Tape the crap out of the old cable to the new cable. Shaft End to the Cut End. I think i used 1 roll of electrical tape ( and it still broke )
3. Remove the starboard hard tank, and the engine divider. ( Heat gun helps with the tank hose removal )
4. Undo the steering cable from the rudder ( 1 bolt ) and the retaining nut at the end cable shaft
5. Undo the Fuel Tank Straps, and prop up on the starboard rear corner of the fuel tank to reveal the PVC guide tube for the cables ( Steering, Shift, Throttle )
   • I used a few small pieces of cut 2x4 to prop it up. Having a second pair of hands is nice here.
6. Feed the new cable down the opening behind the helm. It helps to have a friend pull cable from the rear while you feed it down. The turn to get into the PVC pipe is the hardest Part
7. At this point the bale may get bound up at the exit of the PVC pipe by the rear of the Fuel tank. do not use force, but work it back and forth till the large retaining nut passes through. This part took me a while, and where i broke the tape.
8. Once the cable is past that point you just hook it all up the way you took it apart.

After i did this i put the tank back in, but just recently removed the tanks for Ronix 800# sacs, and wish i did it from the start. You get so much more storage, even when the bags are full, and you get much more weight. Its a no brainer IMO.

I did a bunch of other stuff during my restoration, if you have any questions let me know and i will gladly help if i can.

I actually am pretty deep in a restoration of an 2004 210... I was wondering did your new pump for the sacks go in the pit where the old dump pump was for the original tanks ?

So far I have:
Replaced steering cable
Replaced prop
Refurb the existing for a back up
Replaced original 330 with new one
Replaced carpet
Replaced vinyl
Replaced FCT1
Removed stock rear tanks (so far left empty)
Replaced existing engine compartment dividers with 3/4” Starboard

Any other good ideas while my hands are dirty..?


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[WakeUT]

I recently bought an 01 san 210 and am leaning towards keeping the hard tanks. I do have a center locker sack though I have to fill up manually and may want to change that.


For wakeboarding stock ballast is more than enough for most people, the wake has a ton of kick. Much more than my old wakesetter I had to add 1500 pounds and it still was not as good.

[Stevemo14]

I actually am pretty deep in a restoration of an 2004 210... I was wondering did your new pump for the sacks go in the pit where the old dump pump was for the original tanks ?

So far I have:
Replaced steering cable
Replaced prop
Refurb the existing for a back up
Replaced original 330 with new one
Replaced carpet
Replaced vinyl
Replaced FCT1
Removed stock rear tanks (so far left empty)
Replaced existing engine compartment dividers with 3/4” Starboard

Any other good ideas while my hands are dirty..?


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I used the existing pumps, and the drain pump is in the little cutout where it went under the hard tank.

I may switch to impeller pumps this winter, but waiting for a good deal to pop up.


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[jschim]

Stevemo14 I just stumbled upon this post while researching removing the factory hard tanks from my '01 SAN 210. Been considering using the factory pumps that are in there now - the fill pump works, the empty pump doesn't (blows fuse every time I hit the dashboard switch). Is it as simple as a) removing the tanks, b) throwing FATSAC 750's in the lockers, c) hooking up the factory hose lines to my FATSAC bags, d) hitting the switch on the dashboard? Sounds easy... (obviously will need to replace the empty pump).

Also... did you cutout the factory tanks or do they slide out easily somehow?

LOVE your boat. Slick machine. Great restoration!

Cheers!

[Stevemo14]

Stevemo14 I just stumbled upon this post while researching removing the factory hard tanks from my '01 SAN 210. Been considering using the factory pumps that are in there now - the fill pump works, the empty pump doesn't (blows fuse every time I hit the dashboard switch). Is it as simple as a) removing the tanks, b) throwing FATSAC 750's in the lockers, c) hooking up the factory hose lines to my FATSAC bags, d) hitting the switch on the dashboard? Sounds easy... (obviously will need to replace the empty pump).

Also... did you cutout the factory tanks or do they slide out easily somehow?

LOVE your boat. Slick machine. Great restoration!

Cheers!

The tanks just unbolt, no need to cut anything. You will see aluminum angle brackets holding them in place on the motor side of each tank. there should be one in the front and one in the back.

I purchased the Wakemakers Tank Buster kit, with no sacs, and they had all the fittings you need in it. From there its just hooking up the fill and vent lines to the sacs. You hook up the Drain pump to the fittings they provide also, and you are all set.

[jschim]

Stevemo14 That sounds too easy... what’s the catch?!

Ok great, I’ll look into that kit from Wakemakers. Sounds like a good setup. Do you find the system quick or slow to fill? Did you keep the stock pumps/hoses or upgrade those? And did you just do the rear bags or plumb in bags in your bow/elsewhere too?

[Stevemo14]

I have all stock pumps, but added electric solenoid valves to remove the live-well valves.

I do have the front cooler cutout and a v sack in there.

[jschim]

Stevemo14 Nice. Thinking of adding that bag to the bow as well. Though I keep all my jackets stuffed under there, which would be tough storage to forego. Do you have that bag running off the same pump setup, or separately?