2002 SANTE resto project

[t.franscioni]

The original seat bases are made of what seems like a high density foam or something. It breaks fairly easily given its indented use I feel. I know Iv witnessed plenty of broken bow seats when big people step into the boat from the dock. Anyway I found I high density plastic material almost like cutting board material but intended for marine use called King Starboard. It's a lot heavier than the original material and stronger. I ordered a 4x8 sheet of it from Tap Plastics I think it was. Then just traced out original seat base and cut it on a band saw.

[t.franscioni]

Took a 1/8" round over bit in my router and took the edge off the freshly cut replacement seat base material. Then just drilled the drainage holes and glued the foam back on and it's ready for the new upholstery.

[jbwake]

Awesome work so far!! Boat is looking great. Go the Seadek you will love it.

I think it would be a shame to get this far and then go back to carpet.

[homer12]

LOL, I love your lead in! Nice project through and through, but I totally understand the budget and my better half reminding me of it for any projects boat related! The carpet will still look excellent being brand new so good luck!

[brit_hunsicker]

I lost it the Chardonnay story 😂
Project is coming along better and better each time I find myself back on this thread!
On another note, I've got my v drive back from Walter and put back in my boat a few weeks ago. Finally got around to aligning the prop shaft and got it out on the lake last weekend for a test run. Runs nice and smooth! Now just have to throw the interior back together!
Oh and just a heads up, I know the factory calls for 2 pints (1qt) of oil in the RV-26D v drive, and that's what I put in. Looked good on the trailer. Came right up to the fill line. Put it on the lake and ran it a bit. Pulled the dip stick and oil was low. Was right on the bottom of the hash marks at the L on the dip stick. Haven't added anymore oil yet, but it does need more. Will do that when I go to put the interior back together. I'd be curious to know if yours is the same way when you get to that point in a couple years 😉
Sorry that was mean I'm just kidding! Keep up the good work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[t.franscioni]

Glad to hear your back on water! Ya couple more years sounds about right...lol

[Cpan13]

I lost it the Chardonnay story 😂
Project is coming along better and better each time I find myself back on this thread!
On another note, I've got my v drive back from Walter and put back in my boat a few weeks ago. Finally got around to aligning the prop shaft and got it out on the lake last weekend for a test run. Runs nice and smooth! Now just have to throw the interior back together!
Oh and just a heads up, I know the factory calls for 2 pints (1qt) of oil in the RV-26D v drive, and that's what I put in. Looked good on the trailer. Came right up to the fill line. Put it on the lake and ran it a bit. Pulled the dip stick and oil was low. Was right on the bottom of the hash marks at the L on the dip stick. Haven't added anymore oil yet, but it does need more. Will do that when I go to put the interior back together. I'd be curious to know if yours is the same way when you get to that point in a couple years 😉
Sorry that was mean I'm just kidding! Keep up the good work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure that I'd add any more than recommended. It could read low while level and idling but it might be at the perfect level while underway and the nose is up a bit?

[rcazwillis]

I will seadeck the topdeck like Nautique did in these 02 SANTE boats from factory. I will try to replicate the 2002 brochure pictures below with seadeck.

I like that idea. That would cover up some eye sores on my old 2002 SANTE and look cool. If you make it happen, please provide pics and feedback on where you got it.

[t.franscioni]

I ordered a template kit from seadeck.... Once I'm done making the templates sea deck will clean them up and make the peices for me. At that point they will have the finished templates and I believe anyone can just order this top deck kit for there 02 super air.

[rcazwillis]

Can't wait to see the end result

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[t.franscioni]

Back to the seat base repair to finish that process for the thread here. This is a different piece but I did the same thing to this bow seat in replacing the base material with the stronger king starboard. This one wasn't broken but because I had to do the port side bow seat I figured I'd do the starboard as well just as preventive measure. (Note: the bow center seat and bow filler are both made with a different material called Coosa board which is much stronger and reinforced with fiberglass so those are rock solid and I'm not worried about them) Once I finished shaping the seat base I used an aerosol glue by 3M it works great in securing the foam to the seat base material and also securing the plastic wrap to the foam. The plastic wrap is there to help the vinyl slide across the foam when you stretch the vinyl over the piece it's not for water proofing the foam which is what I first thought until I read the Christine's vinyl install instructions and learned the real purpose of the plastic wrap.

[t.franscioni]

installing the vinyl is pretty straight forward. Best advice for tackling this project is to pay close attention to how nautique installed the factory vinyl when you take the skins off and taking lots of pictures will teach you a lot of tricks and tips when you go to put your new skins on. This is the simplest piece to demonstrate because it is flat and has no special bends or anchors to attach like the drivers seat which I think was the most difficult.

fit the piece into the cover.... Then I start by stapling any seams to there respective corners this helps to align the cover on the seat.

[t.franscioni]

With the seams tacked down I start stretching the vinyl and stapling down. Anywhere you have a corner you need to cut wedges to minimize any wrinkles this is one of the many tips I picked up by just paying attention to how the factory applied the skins while I took the old ones off.

[t.franscioni]

After the skin is on most of the seats except for the bow backrest and combing pads will need a backing which is a breathable material for looks only I think. I start by finding the straightest longest edge and tack that down first. note: you don't needs bunch of staples here because the next piece that goes on is the hidem I think it's called and it goes on the same staple line that the backing goes so basically you will be securing the backing in the next step as well so I allow 1.5 - 2 inches between staples when doing the backing.

[t.franscioni]

I don't know how to insert text inbetween pictures so sorry for the multiple posts to get this process on here....

Then pull it tight and do the other dudes working opposite sides until all are done. Then trim the excess off about 1/4 - 1/2 inch from edge this will allow room for the hidem to cover the cut edge.