New member first ski nautique

[SilentSeven]

Sometimes I forget how much work it is to gut and rebuild a boat.

[wayoutthere]

A while back the hull/deck joint from the dash forward got some attention, it had a pretty large gap and some of the rivets were at a 45 and others were pulled thru.
at that time i drilled out the rivets lined up the joint and screwed it back together tight using some of the leftover rubrail screws.

Got the rest of the joint cleaned out and washed, put fresh silicone around the joint and in the old holes.
the rub rail went on by hand using screws 1 size bigger than the originals, the new ones have a nice big flat head and they came from overtons.

[wayoutthere]

Sometimes I forget how much work it is to gut and rebuild a boat.

Its real easy when new parts come out of a box or a mix of new and used parts and they are just installed,
"One" of the big time consumers is putting it together to check it and see what comes next goes where, then taking it apart to seal any drill/ screw holes and then putting it together again.

[wayoutthere]

So i was out of town and managed to pick up a pair of awesome trick skis, back home and back on the boat.
the broken riser bolt came out by finger, the risers are on and it was a good thing the prop shaft was bent otherwise the strut would be bedded, the engine would have been aligned, and the stern tube bedded and glassed before the engine was ever dressed.

All that layout, plumbob water level and string pulling way back in the beginning paid off, From now on engine alignment starts at the exhaust risers

[wayoutthere]

Toying with the idea of a fiberglass stern tube, the bronze tube doesn't fit the hull very good, with the bent shaft it had to be shimmed up over a 1/2 inch in the front and there was quite a bit of bedding compound on it. Water stains on the bronze show water was getting inbetween it and the hull but it wasn't leaking into the boat. The old bearing fits better in the glass tube than it does in the bronze one, ( less slop). I think it can slide down the shaft and get scribed, cut and ground to better fit the hull. There is just about 560 sqaure inches of 1700 bi-axial material (no mat) each piece made 2 laps so its 8 layers and just under 3/16 thick. I spun it on the grinder to clean it up and turn the bell end to 1 3/4 inches to fit the new stuffing box hose

[SilentSeven]

Interesting on the fiberglass thruhull....no good input other than I enjoy watching you work through these challenges.

Youtube posting of you on the trick skis is required or it didn't happen.

[wayoutthere]

The bronze tube is stronger than the fiberglass tube for sure.
when it's trimmed to fit i'll take a picture of both in place and show why i think it will bed and bond stronger then the bronze.

you tube on ski's, not likely to happen, it would require 2 friends, 1 one of which could drive a boat. Funny as it sounds, good luck finding either in florida.

[wayoutthere]

Battery cables, all routed thru cushion clamps, all zip tied, you can't see but there are 2 battery cables on the solenoid 1 from the battery switch the other to the starter.
the guy who made them up put both into 1 ring terminal for a cleaner looking install.

exhaust hose, fuel line and flex hose for the ram air arrived today, the flex hose is some nice stuff, it doesnt collapse under it's own weight like the bilge blower stuff.

engine wiring tomorrow @ first light then onto the hoses.

[wayoutthere]

Today was a long day, try starting tomorrow. I believe it's all sorted out, fingers crossed.

[wayoutthere]

No dice, no start.
make an offer, hull and trailer are 100 percent.
if you have an engine i'll complete alignment and it will be a drop in.

edit in video of no start
https://youtu.be/0nE4Nv3VCxQ

[Stevemo14]

Come on, you can't give up now!!

[SilentSeven]

Waiting for the /s tag. 99% sure he's not giving up...just annoyed as heck that the dumb thing didn't light off. Take a day or two off....kick back with a beer...ponder the situation and go back after it.


Edit: uh oh.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...92-free-engine

[wayoutthere]

Round 2 revealed a bad fuel pump, it pumps like crazy, right up the clear vynil tube and sprays all over the engine. first try it lost prime i guess.

From summit that pump is 60 bucks and back ordered until ???? Unless i buy the 200 dollar pump from a boat place, not happening on a part number directly from carter.

i'll add up fiberglass material and list the hull and trailer.

[wayoutthere]

first off, the battery after being on the charger all day yesterday was reading 10 volts today, therefore i get 10 volts with key on run and with key on start all the way thru to the alternator.
the battery is on a switch and nothing is hot unless it's on, the switch was 100 percent turned off yesterday, i had to turn it on to test everything today.

i have good continuity of ground all the way thru to the alternator.

disconnect distributor purple from coil positive and black from coil negative
and have no continuity of ground to the block or the housing on the black wire, the housing has continuity to the block.

what i think is wrong is continuity is everywhere, choke coil and alternator purple wires to block, to ground, to itself across the board.

Distributor tag reads
FOJL 12100 CA
7808 BS 3J 27

i disconnected the battery completely and called it quits

[SilentSeven]

Are you really gonna pack and up sell this after all that work? Say it ain't so Joe! This story needs a happy ending...a restored Nautique back in the water! Feels so close!

I'm trying to sort of what gremlins are keeping the engine from running. Seems like there are two problems. Something with the fuel pump and something odd with the electrical system.

Is the fuel pump problem mostly as straight forward you state above? Just need a new pump and they are either silly $$ or out of stock?

The harness problem seems a bit more tricky. Did I get this right that you got a new engine harness and are using that? And that the whole e-system is flakey at this time?