New member first ski nautique

[wayoutthere]

Yes, the fuel pump is straight forward mechanical type, it has a hard line that feed the carb and a clear tube that fuel only goes thru if the fuel pump is bad, fuel is going thru that tubing.

yes there is a new wiring harness from front to back, i had big help on the start run and charge circuits because of the 2 solenoids and other black magic wiring i've never seen before.

right now now there is no spark, i received instruction on how to test the ignition module, i did that test and it failed.
tomorrow i will trace, verify and check voltage from front to back.

the ignition module is no longer available, new distributor is 500 bucks and on a 6-8 week backorder.
the fuel pump i checked on again and now it's 119 bucks on backorder, 200 bucks from a boat place and probably on backorder.

If it was a runner it would sell for the cost of materials and i would get enjoyment from the build, sea trials and some use, but once the engine starts looking like it's gonna keep needing parts to run and or run right it becomes unsellable and you have to decide to eat it or cut and run, yes i'm thinking pretty hard.

[SilentSeven]

Hmm. Frustrating. I'm guessing the engine never ran since you purchased the boat.

Re the fuel pump, looks like SKIDIM has options that are in-stock. https://skidim.com/engine/carburetio...ivery.html?p=3 Not super cheap but less than $200.

My 82 mastercraft had i think the same engine and I don't remember any ignition module. Had a super simple coil/points system. If I still had that boat, I'd have put one of these conversion kits in. https://skidim.com/ign-module-mallory-50-57-series.html). Do you think something like this would solve the ignition problem? EDIT: maybe that's not the right kit.

If it was my rig and I was trying to get it running, I'd disconnect most everything except 12v to run the solenoid / starter / ignition. Then get the engine started and work backwards to reconnect the harness.

I sold my Mastercraft as as bag of parts as I didn't have your skills in being able to fix the stringers. I know it would have been worth 4x more as a running boat vs what I got for it. Even if you're upside down in the boat, I think you'll come out ahead to get the engine running and sell it whole vs breaking it up into pieces.

[wayoutthere]

130 for the fuel pump is not bad,
The petronics distributor is model # 7808 BS 3J 27 (original part) was points and condensor to begin with, it was converted to electric and the module for the 7808 dist is no longer available.

unhooking everything except start run & charge is an excellent idea, i'll be back on it tomorrow morning

i guess what aggravates me is when it didn't start i immediately knew the amount of money it would take to start the engine, from that point i know it's another 5-600 to make it run like the animal i know it is. Add in a 2 month backorder and start over from sqaure 1.

[SilentSeven]

ah...ok...that explanation helps with the black box. Sucks on the distributor. Maybe if you dumb down the connections the ignition will work? No need to invest in the FP until you confirm spark right? A little starting fluid goes a long way for a test. Spending $600+ to get the motor started would be super aggravating for sure.

[wayoutthere]

It is aggravating but i can't quit.
now i have to retract the free engine offer, suck up the cost, suck up the humility, live with it and finish what i started.

[SilentSeven]

[wayoutthere]

1 wire was wrong, couldn't see it, wouldn't have believed it.
i got walked thru it and straightened out.
big thanks to everyone who had my back, and offered the advice and motivation
new fuel pump and petronix module will be here tuesday.

this is gas down the carb.
https://youtu.be/dphiGyAi5Qo

[SilentSeven]

NICE!...now back to your regularly scheduled program....

EDIT: skidim just pushed a 10% labor day discount code - code is LaborDay. Save you a few bucks off that FP if you order from them.

[wayoutthere]

That 10% will come in handy, i ordered the parts friday @ noon, the wrong module is coming. tuesday when they re open i'll call and get the right one going, it's 50 bucks more spency.
good thing is w/ the new fuel pump she can run on the hose all week

[wayoutthere]

Found out today (talked to vince @ skidim, the right module is the one already ordered) yesterday i installed the ram air and gps antenna.
should move plenty of fresh air.

[wayoutthere]

Fuel pump on, new petronix ignition module installed, cap rotor wires sitting here waiting. carb is pouring gas down the primaries, with good advice and coaching, i ordered 2 floats extra gaskets and some other stuff on the way, carb rebuild kit is sitting here too. Maybe by end of the week it'll run right, the stuff should be here any day.

meantime over the last 2 days i got shaft and coupler aligned pretty good. Had to grind the hull over the strut flat to get the bolts plumb, brushed on some gel and used a plate.
The shaft is within 1/16 inline with the boat centerline and the coupler is down to .0025.
strut is bedded all looks good. Believe there is acceptable tolerances between the prop strut and hull
At least 1 more double check on the coupler before the stern tube gets bedded and glassed, that should be a breeze with the dual taper shaft.

https://youtu.be/UXE-yF_hwU0

[SilentSeven]

I got money that says that's better than the factory ever did it. Nice work on the shaft alignment, that stuff is PITA...felt your pain as I watched the feeler gauge tests.

Aren't you mentally done with all this niggeling fuel and ignition stuff? Gotta be frustrating. So close!

[wayoutthere]

Oh man, the whole sparky carb thing had me nuts and the carb is on hold. Add to that, any mechanical work without fail gets oil grease grime and sludge everywhere.
Fortunately i got some guidance from a very knowledgeable and patient man on that electrical. Still waiting on the floats as of today.
maybe it'll run by the weekend.

believe it or not alignment wasn't that bad, it just got ball parked by lining up the engine with the boat centerline and keeping clearance between the exhaust risers and dog box, then move the strut side to side until 3 & 9 were close with the feeler gauge. The strut is nowhere near the center of it's pocket now.
Plenty of room under the dog box to go up/down with the engine to get 12 & 6.

hard part was believing it was right because i did it *** backwards starting at the engine. Took the better part of the day convincing myself it couldn't be re checked any more so the strut pocket got scribed the strut bedded and torqued, shaft re installed and coupler checked while the sealant was oozing out on the drive way.
It checked o.k. and the next morning it was still reading the same.

It was pure luck that the shaft lined up with the boat centerline as close as it did. It's a ball buster more than anything, "oh you just did coupler alignment and not shaft and coupler alignment, ones important as the other but you'll probably be alright with just the one"

i don't know about better than factory, they don't get 2 days like it took me.

[wayoutthere]

4 layers on the front, 2 vertical, 2 horizontal that overlap and a cap, first time i wrapped 1708 like that without difficulty, i think the epoxy made a difference.
2 layers laid like shingles front to back, 2 layers laid the same way back to front with a cap mostly over the rear.
Something like 640 sq inches total for 5 layers.

[SilentSeven]

What's the defining item that you work from? Seems like you can move everything.....? Is there a target prop shaft angle? Seems to me shaft angle would be the true reference point and then you set the strut to that and then align the thruhull and engine?

Layup look beautiful.

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