New member first ski nautique

[wayoutthere]

Working on it around the rain, lots of little jobs getting knocked out.
decided to cut the engine/pylon mount and make them seperate pieces. Now the pylon foot can get bedded and glassed and the pylon mount can get installed without the engine in the way, if the pylon mount breaks the engine can stay in.
the angle still bolts to the stringers and the engine still bolts to the angle. Plus the engine/pylon mount was out of sqaure i think from the heat of welding and now the angle doesn't need to be clamped and forced into place.
The mount and pylon did line up and fit the floor and dog box real good but it was the clamping that would make alignment and drilling the holes tough because the side to side would have to be tight to hold the mount, plus i don't want to pull the engine if the pylon part of the mount should break, if that makes sense?
the pylon mount gets turned 180 and is notched to fit the stringers, it'll slide in and get bolted.

[wayoutthere]

Not a bad fit on the bunks no adjustments needed, but what a pain going back and forth from hull to trailer with the angle finder to get it laid out.
Forgot how high the trailer is, had to go up 32 inches to get it on, the bunks are 30 inches off the ground.
I think whoever approved the design for this trailer was high !
hopefully 3 1/2 more feet of tongue and only the bed of the pickup truck will have to be submerged to float.
all parts except rubrail screws and speakers are here.
back on engine tomorrow.

HOMESTRECTH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[SilentSeven]

Tasty bevels!

[wayoutthere]

Pylon temp mounted and torqued to locate foot, it can be bedded and glassed now.
blue tape is max length of engine mount angles to allow for pylon mount removal, plenty of room as the front mounts are approx 14 inches behind that tape line.
Mounting holes will get resin swabbed while glassing the foot, pics are up to show layer count.
Pylon lined up pretty good without effort.

[SilentSeven]

Getting serious now....putting a cover on it.

[wayoutthere]

Rear mounts rubber shot, while waiting to hear if new rubber is available i cut a spacer added a shim under it and cut the old bushings and pressed them back in.
bushing locates center, spacer is correct elevation so bottom nut/washer combo snugs up preventing the engine from lifting, shim makes it sqaure on adjustment bolt.
Operates smoothly, i see no issues. Other option is all new mounts and angle, so it was either b-o-a-t or a big jimbo fix.

pylon mount in, 10 laced layers front-right-rear-left, except the last 2 pieces added for good measure 1200 sqaure inches of material. I think it will hold.

[wayoutthere]

Endless cleaning scrubbing prepping and waiting 24 hrs after using the ospho to paint, followed by wrong parts followed by wait time, i got the old flywheel with new ring gear back yesterday, got the dampener fitted installed torqued etc etc.

Today, 6 hours of cutting fitting painting and re assembly, ( bushings to align the belts on the alternator and sea pump).
Theres no wear on the brackets or accy's the belts were just not aligned real bad.
I'm trying to get installed but weather followed by this and followed by that is eating up this month fast.

I should add every part and piece of advice from ron at skiboatparts has been 100% correct and or on the money plus shipping is fast.
it is other suppliers and services were things get screwed up (engine/engine components only)

[SilentSeven]

That engine looks nice. Nifty clean up job. I have that same HF mag mount...lol...use it to check runout in brake rotors.

Are those factory colors or your choice? Gold over sliver looks great.

[wayoutthere]

It was gold over silver, just went with it, i didn't paint the oil fill/breather tho.
Prefer black but any scratches etc may show the original color.
i have a prop balancer and use that pointer to check blade tracking and diameter, speaking of that the prop needs checked, doesnt have a scratch or nick on it but tracking and balance make a world of difference.

i have an inside bet with myself it gets a dual taper shaft and cnc 3 blade oj , but lets start and run it, that money may first have to go towards a carb or distributor, but i hope not

[wayoutthere]

it landed 1/16 off center and 3/16 forward, got it adjusted and drilled 1 bolt hole in each corner
@ 13 degrees the shaft won't go thru the molded hole for the stern tube, it's way off.
has to be the mold or a wrong but close strut hacked in at some point.
good job i saved the shim that was in there..

i'll get more pics up later or tomorrow, goota have dinner now

[SilentSeven]

Trying to visualize what's not lining up. As I understand it, there are 3 'points' on the prop shaft. Here's my understanding of how it works.

1 - The strut - pretty much a fixed mount item and the strut primarily determines the shaft angle
2 - The thru-hull - I would think this has a little bit angle latitude by design.
3 - And the engine flange - by design, the angle can be adjusted by engine mounts.

So when you're installing and aligning you 1) place the shaft in the strut 2) set the shaft mid-center in the thru-hull and then 3) set the motor to connect to the prop shaft at the angle defined by the strut...and the shaft should be general centered in the thru-hull. Is this the correct order?

Is the problem that when you remounted the strut that it's angle is not correct to the tolerances allowed by thru-hull....and thus you have to shim the strut? And this is a factory build issue?

[wayoutthere]

The strut was shimmed with a sheared off bent hunk of aluminum plate when i disassembled it.

1st pic, the strut port/pad, it was ground to increase the angle of the strut, the molded in thru hull for the stern tube is also in this pic.
basically if the strut was bolted in place the shaft would hit the forward edge of the molded hole.
so they ground it to increase shaft angle, it still does not fit, at this point a shim was installed which increased the shaft angle enough to get thru the molded hole.

problem with all that is it added nearly 5 degrees of shaft angle.

the strut base was a tight fit in it's port/pad, it is also not straight (probably a result of being cast), it points left which resulted in the engine being slung over to port, and the port exhaust manifold burning the dog box.

Remedy for this is to start alingment backwards, center the engine and get the couplers close to parrellel.
the strut is temp screwed to the boat with 2 small screws and big washers, loosen a screw and the strut will turn left or right until centered, drill out the other 2 holes bolt it in, remove the screws, drill and bolt those holes, shaft centered, now complete alignment by adjusting engine to strut.

if the strut went back on the original holes, the engine would be way over to the left again.
other thing was the engine was very close to the hull bottom and there was 2 inches of shaft sticking out of the strut.

in the end 13 degrees won't work on this hull, the thru hull for the stern tube is in the wrong place by 3 inches at least.
13 degrees shaft angle i doubt the engine would clear the boat bottom.

i't's aggravating !
why is there a 13 degree strut if it won't work with the given dimensions of the port and thru hull ?
was the boat bottom designed to work with a 13 degree strut ?
when was the towel thrown in ?

last pic is the strut with the shim at almost 16 degrees, add that to the 2 degrees that was ground into the strut port/pad and a 13 degree strut is now at 18 degrees.
i know it's standard practice to shim the strut but shim in my head is thousands not 1/8ths.

[SilentSeven]

Thanks for the explanation. Messy.

So....the thru-hull is basically FUBAR? Both wrong location and wrong angle? Wonder if this was a Friday afternoon boat or if they are all like this.....?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[wayoutthere]

Engine angle to stringer holes drilled, epoxy soaked and 4200 on both sides of each stringer, same for the ski pylon and steering knuckle.

[wayoutthere]

Turns out the shaft is bent, no problem move to dressing the engine, riser bolt snapped long before 10 ft. pnds, ok get on the wiring, after being schooled about the new starter, the old charging circuit and there still should be a remote solenoid the start run charge circuit is sorted out i guess.

in the meantime got the wiring going, turns out i didn't have enough length of pink and orange w/brown in the tinned marine wire so the accy and fuel level harness isn't abc.
the dash side is twisted and the boat side is loomed, loomed it in sections around bilge pump and battery ground which only grounds the stern light, bilg blower and fuel sender.

all the cushion clamps got the 4200, it's time consuming the whole thing is run and once fit the cushion clamps come off 1 at a time so the 4200 can get applied.
the harness is mounted at the tank on a cushion clamp then loops thru another, the only connection that in theory could get wet is the bilge pump.

this morning the rub rail starts so the stern light can get lined up with the rail cap.

engine harness broken bolt and new shaft can wait until the battery is in and i get back from an upcoming trip.