New member first ski nautique

[wayoutthere]

got the tube cut flush, ground, shaped and 3 layers of 1708 in there that i cut up into 1x1 sqaures and 1x3 strips, today it cleaned up retty good, couple low spots but i think they're too shallow for glass and not too deep for thickened epoxy and white pigment to maybe try and blend it a bit.

[wayoutthere]

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it needed some filling/bodywork, and out of desperation i put 7 drops of white pigment in 4 oz of 635 thin epoxy and 2 scoops of cabosil.
it was like mayo and filled it perfectly but didn't cover because it's swiped on thin.
should have saved the 15 bucks used the gray color i have or spent the 15 on black, it might have covered better and looked better

[SilentSeven]

meh...it's on the bottom of the boat. Only you will ever know.

[wayoutthere]

If i sanded it deeper it would cover, the build up isn't the problem it's the sanding/blending around the edges
It's a 4 oz mix and 3 oz is wasted using this 3 to 1 epoxy, unless there's a method to mixing less.

Yeah, i'll know but theres nothing to hide, no pictures of the work would be a different story, i used epoxy and 1708.
we've all seen or heard about the bondo and spray paint jobs. Theres non of that or perfect body and wet sanding for that matter going on over here !

[wayoutthere]

well i cut it down and filled it, but it's no better. It was smooth yesterday and is smooth today.
i think that's part of the problem, i know it's supposed to be a bigger area and i'm supposed to fill and sand a hundred times till it's all feathered.
I suck at bodywork, i can shape and rough in to 80 grit, the high grits and all that magic touch is way above and far beyond my capabilities.
Tomorrow i'll wash off the blush and start around the edges with 800 and it'll be what it'll be

[wayoutthere]

To the member who has pm'd me about the boat, i have troubles figuring out and using the pm system as well.
it sends them to both of us or something, as iget notified of a new pm but can't find it.

i pm'd you my phone number, call anytime.
i'll resend you some pictures.
thanks

[AviatorA320]

All set… finally connected

[wayoutthere]

Over the last 2 days i got the speakers installed and wired up, the fronts are in boxes i made from the plastic containers that 4 inch velcro grinding pads come in. Couple layers of glass, next day they popped right off, actually sound good too.
Couldn't bring myself to cut holes in the gunnels.

got the rudder installed and cable loaded, rudder and wheel are straight (at least on the trailer) and theres equal left right rotations within the width of a steering wheel spoke. Also installed a new bilge pump and bigger hose.

last but not least i went thru 3 cans of break kleen on the carb, every hole both directions, all clean and nice flow.
new power valve, air/fuel screws got new orings, new secondary meter backing plate, new choke cap.
all assembled by the book.


today;

Right out of the box the distributor cap "for prestolite screw down distributors" didn't fit but it does now.

New cap rotor and wires, got the carb on and at first when it started to get fuel it fired up and sounded great ! For 2 fkn seconds then it went right back to extremely rich.

started with the idle mixture screws at 1 1/2 open, no matter what direction or how much the screws are turned had absolutely no affect on the rich condition or engine speed. Each setting was left to run for 20 seconds.

don't understand why the same rich condition after carb rebuild or what part is causing it

i have an idea to try but since i'm not sure how they work it's most likely a bad one.

still no floats from holley, they were odered a month ago.

[wayoutthere]

SUCCESS, well it doesn't run yet


or in my case luck that it launched and recovered better and easier than expected. I got 3 feet 6 inches worth of tongue extension ball to ball and the up pulling winch worked perfectly on the launch and load. The guide on goal post things i made also worked perfectly.

and so in order to keep pissing people off " my stuff worked pefectly and everyone elses stuff did not, well that's not fair, 1/2 of that stuff didn't fit or was flat out the wrong part, everything we've come to expect"

the steering is 1 finger and the rudder port does not drip.

the shaft packing gland leaks, no gushes, no niagra falls when adjusted per the instructions. It's hand adjusting and therefore convienant however it would not stop leaking until i used a wrench and then it would still drip drip drip too fast, it's not right, probably just a defective part but it's brand new and it's a ***** to remove.


i have some videos to upload and get posted.




It's in a little too far but i wasn't sure how deep to be so the tracking fins didn't hit the trailer. I'll have to relaunch and load again to get some measurements to make the bow stop and i know the bow stop will make a big difference as to how deep the trailer has to be because the boat floated /slid forward a bit once the stern started to float.









I always float on and off with the other boat and use the bow eye to help pull it.
I pulled throwing the rope around the winch tower directly out of my ***.



Literally walked back pushed the boat off the dock and pulled the rope, it went on like it was being driven. The trailer wasn't as deep ( the lights were out of the water) and i think it could still be a few inches higher.



Moved the boat forward that much and now i like the tongue weight





The goal posts worked perfectly and it landed pretty evenly, i mean who doesn't like the boat to be perfectly on the trailer right ?





The up pulling winch is awesome. So it's down to measuring for a bow stop with a tie back/safety strap and some expanded steel to turn the tongue into a catwalk because it's a wobbly and scary walk from the tailgate to the winch and that 3 feet feels like a mile over aligator and shark infested waters let me tell ya.

[SilentSeven]

YOWZA! That is so cool! Congrats on getting her in the WATER and passing the float test!

This has really been an epic story and it's so close to the final chapter.....can't wait to see the boat running.

You should be crackin' a cold one after today.

[wayoutthere]

Vids,
https://youtu.be/NX1Q4qlYY0w

https://youtu.be/jFJy53stXbY

https://youtu.be/n-6fuNqBmn4

https://youtu.be/DDUIxOx7fhg

[wayoutthere]

the new stuffing box when you looked into/thru it, the rope was a bigger i.d. than the delrin compression washers.

as a result it wouldn't drip correctly as seen in the float test videos. The place i got it from sent a new one out and you can see the rope now.

just be sure i had everything on my end ok i double checked the stern tube, it was the correct diameter and it was centered good but it wasn't perfectly parallel so i shortened, wrapped and sanded it. Luckily i still have access to the easy bake oven secret tool box and got it all straightened out.

If i had to do it over i'd make the stern tube without the bell end on the pvc pipe.

the new carburetor arrived yesterday, if it runs then the timing and adjusting will be done dockside, i hope.
going to pick up a vacuum gauge for the carb tuning this afternoon.

[SilentSeven]

details details! was there too much drip or not enough? And it sounds like the problem was in part with the fitting...you say you got a new one.

Looking forward to the run test! New carb should solve a lot. On my prior mastercraft, it was like a new boat after i had the carb professionally rebuilt.

[wayoutthere]

The first new stuffing box water gushed in, like i said when you looked thru it the rope couldn't be seen.
only reason i went the extra mile on the tube was to be sure my end was well within spec.

the dual tapered shaft is a God send life saver, no way any of this could be done on and off to adjust/correct/replace
any of the parts with the old shaft.
bet it's been in and out a dozen times and it's a breeze to do it, well worth the 500 bucks for sure

reinstalled shaft, stuffing box, prop and rudder and immediately with the compression nut fully loose there is drag on the shaft
(the nut needs to be only snug by hand)

Moving the engine forward 1 1/2 inches and thereby correcting the prop to strut clearance now allows the stufing box and it's hose to be removed without dropping the rudder.


check out rons video on the stuffing box i used https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPhVuEcuiKw&t=112s

Sure hope the new carb does the trick and the vacuum gauge i picked up measures timing and other stuff who the **** knows how it does all that but fingers crossed right !

[SilentSeven]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPhVuEcuiKw&t=112s[/URL]

Wow. That's a great video. Thanks for sharing that. Great teacher!