SV211 Project

[GeoffW]

I connected a different hard drive into my laptop today and decided I should share some PDF's of the prop puller I Made.

The horseshoe looking plate fits between the prop and the shaft support

The other solid plate butts up against the end of the drive shaft.

I used 4 pieces of threaded rod I had laying around the shop and kept torquing them clockwise. If I did this more often, I'd probably grab 4 3/8" x ~8" bolts and nuts and go to town.

Worked great, no heat or anything else required. If anyone wants the DXF's PM me and I'll share.

[GeoffW]

It's been a bit slow this week. Have managed to get some time in and really not alot to show. Once I mounted the pumps I went back to the electrical box and kept wiring. It takes time to heat shrink and dielectric grease everything! Mounted the panel box after figuring out where the second battery would go and how I was going to integrate that with the isolator.

Box is still missing 2 power wires and 6 ballast signal wires. It's a busy box and I wish I would have trimmed some of the leads back a bit more. Not sure I will, as there's a pile of time in cutting wires back and refitting everything, but it might drive me nuts enough that I will do it anyways.

In case you were wondering, the relays are velcro'd to the top of the box. Inlets to the box are rubber plumbing caps that I sliced to get wiring through and keep moisture out

To route pump wiring out of the way, I took some fencing wire I had and ran a tensioned piece between a couple of longer bolts on the back wall of the back seat. Pump wiring was then ziptied to the guide wire. Wiring from one of the blast pumps was long enough to get to the junction box, the other two had to be extended.

Next up is to finish the wiring, then I start moving on the placing and plumbing the ski locker bag in.

[GeoffW]

Took a bit of time, we've finally lost snow on the ground, so the yard has gotten a little love. I did come back to the 211 over the past few evenings and got the wiring atleast roughed in. I'm open to admit I may have rushed a bit and never did realize that the diodes in the relays are directional - they do not work if they are wired with reverse polarity. I found this out after putting some power to them but no main power to the pumps. I realized this after I hit the switch for one pump. After inspection, the relays are marked clear as day where the hot signal wire should go. Back to living life in a storage compartment for another night as I wired them with opposite male and female space connectors so I couldn't reverse polarity in the future...

[GeoffW]

SLowly but surely it's coming along. Feel like I can see the finish line finally.

Finished the pump switch box. Everything works as I expected, but having a bit of trouble verifying the pumps are turning the way I expected. I bench tested them before putting them in, so it shouldn't be a surprise, but you never know....Finished fairly clean.

Added second battery box. Next up is to tie both batteries together with the isolator.

Then on to plumbing....

Think I can see the finish line..

[jhiestand]

I've gotten a kick out of this project. Great work!!

[GeoffW]

Hit a milestone - fully completed the electrical this week. To charge the second battery, I added a battery isolator. I never intended to pick one up from my local Princess Auto (Same as Harbour Freight in the US), but noticed one in passing one day while there. Went home, reviews looked good and saved me some money from getting something shipped in. See how it works, it seems simple and doesn't look to work any different from the Yandina C100's.

Battery in the Port compartment is the factory one, starboard is the added on one. I kept the Port battery as the main. To do this, I moved the Main fuse for the audio distribution block to the main battery area so I could extend the power cable to the Starboard battery. The ground cable is only long enough to go to the Port battery, but it's a ground, it should matter if it connects to the Port or Starboard battery first. The Starboard battery will power the audio system and the pumps, while the Port battery will only have engine loads hooked up to it.

Ran 2 ga for both power and ground cables between batteries. Probably could have gone lighter, but had quite a bit of new 2ga laying around without a home.

Starboard side

[GeoffW]

Port Side with the Isolator bolted in. It's a little messy, but once I hook the battery up and put the battery cover on it'll clean up alright

[GeoffW]

Wiring diagram from Isolator

[GeoffW]

With the electrical now complete, I started plumbing. With the orientation of the pumps, as much as I didn't want to, I had little choice but to install elbows. I didn't want to as elbows are flow restrictive unless you can oversize and even that has some effect on flow. I had quite a few extra 1" elbows from an irrigation project I completed last year, so I"m using those. I'm also using Oeitker clamps as they are simple and work.

Hose I purchased from a local rubber supply store. I could only buy hose in 100' rolls, so everything on the boat will be done with 1" line. As others have mentioned in some other threads I found, this hose is a bugger to get onto fittings. It's not easy. I was planning to use some soap and water, but had my heat gun out still from shrink tube work on the electrical so tried that and was that ever easy to get hose on the fittings. After it cools, it's on there tight - to the point where I'm not sure I even need clamps.

Why the short runs of hose? I need to offset the elbows from the pumps. Installing the hose from the intakes to the pumps has to be planned here otherwise I'm going to really struggle getting the last connection on.

[GeoffW]

These are the assembled valve and elbows that I'll be threading on the intakes. As with the hose, these are all 1" valves. Probably overkill for a 720gpm pump, but reducing flow restriction is as helpful as adding more pump power.

[GeoffW]

Started last night crawling back into the casket on the port side of the 211. I forgot how uncomfortable it is to work in there. I put the first valve and elbow on last night and I was super glad to not have the intake fittings slip or spin on me. I was a little worried about that.

FYI, in case you were curious, a 540lbs Big Bag will go in each locker. Had them last year and they fit well. Would cubed wakemaker's bags fit better in here? Sure would, but I have these and until they leak I'm not going to spend any more.

[SkiTower]

Sweet boat! I also have a 211 without tanks and use a set of big bags as well. I checked the other day and PVC threads have a different pitch to the bags, where did you get the correct threads? I would love to tie mine together for one big filling instead of three smaller ones.

[GeoffW]

Sweet boat! I also have a 211 without tanks and use a set of big bags as well. I checked the other day and PVC threads have a different pitch to the bags, where did you get the correct threads? I would love to tie mine together for one big filling instead of three smaller ones.

Right from Wakemakers. I plan to use the Quick Connects. Order an extra nipple. For the cost of them, once you get a bit of sand in the threads, it's been pretty easy in my experience to strip or cross thread and, atleast for me, shipping from WM to me, while out of their control, is a significant cost unless I'm ordering a big quantity of things.

[GeoffW]

It's been a super busy few weeks where we tore an old deck off of the cabin at the lake and replaced with a multilevel deck that's nearly 700 sq ft.

Have been chipping away at the boat again trying to finish the ballast off. Over the past few days I've run the ballast hoses from the pump to the ski locker where a 50" 500lbs locker bag is going to reside. After pulling the breaker box out, I found the bilge pump drain line and tied into that. I split it with a 3/4" wye and tied both the bag vent and the bilge into the same outlet. On the bag side, I have a 1" wakemakers check valve. I didn't put one on the bilge side as I figure the wye is so close to the outlet, I don't think I"ll have to worry about feedback into the bilge. Bag fits perfectly in the locker and should fill pretty close to it's full size. These bags are really nice and are definately heavier than the SL Big Bags I'm putting in the rear lockers. I will replace the BB's with some WM's universal bags in due time ( I have a credit there and may as well spend it right??).

As a FYI - I'm pretty much complete all of my plumbing. I'll show some pictures of the rear bag vent lines tomorrow. I picked up a 100ft 1" coil of hose before I started this and I believe I have about 15ft left over.

Hoping to get it in the water on Sunday, but lots to do yet...hook up rear bags, fluid changes, and I need to finish two Neturik connections to the tower speakers and LED's.

[GeoffW]

Learning more as I go. Hooked up both batteries to test my wiring out. I did get a little excited when I hooked up both batteries and while I had main power and could run the blower, interior lights and heater, my audio head unit would not turn on. I was confident I somehow fried the head unit with the amount of wiring I did. I swapped batteries and was in business. Measured battery voltage at 8.9v. I wouldn't have guessed that a battery with that voltage would literally shut everything down, but electronics can be sensitive.

Bought a new Nico battery charger a few months ago and with a 1.5a charge battery was good to go within a few hours