1998 Ski Nautique

[NautiqueJeff]

Here's the play. I think it looks OK, but jpwhit I am interested to hear your thoughts.

[jpwhit]

I agree that it looks ok. The twisting and up and down is fine. It looks pretty tight side to side.

[jpwhit]

Once you have the plate with the pickup off, you should be able to see the mechanical advance weights below the plate. Make sure there is a spring on each one and that they don’t look corroded or gummed up.

[NautiqueJeff]

I inspected that earlier today, and they looked good to me. Maybe a little dirty, but everything seems to be there and the springs look good.

[NautiqueJeff]

Ordered the ignition module. Should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to getting this fixed once and for all!

[SilentSeven]

Eeek. Ok, My prior suggestion was offbase....that's not a GT-40 distributor.

[bturner]

One thing to be aware of when doing a Pertronix change, especially if you're going to use a Blaster coil is the source voltage being used to power both. Most if not all systems with points used a ballast resistor and drop the voltage from 12v to about 9v. This was done to help prevent the points from burning up with the higher voltage. Pertronix is very clear on their recommendations that the coil and ignition unit receive a constant "key on" 12 volts to operate properly. They also want you to check for a proper ground between the battery and the ignition module. There are YT videos on how to do this easy procedure. Another note.... While Pertronix states a 12v requirement, the Pertronix 1 would work with 9v (I've personally ran several boats/cars with the Pertronix 1 like this), the Pertronix 2 and 3 will not.

Real quick and easy to verify proper voltage. Turn the key on and check the source voltage at the coil.

Boats may be different or someone may have already modified this boat but since you're having what would appear to be strange problems I would eliminate this simple item as a possible issue.

Lastly, are you seeing any evidence of arcing or burn marks in the coil or on the tip of the new rotor? Replacement parts have been hit and miss in the collector car market the last few years. Unfortunately, just because you put a new part in doesn't mean you put a better part in. While this isn't a collector car, it has the same ignition parts. It may be worth doing an impendence check on the wires as well.

[NautiqueJeff]

Got the new module today. Probably won't have time to install it until Sunday though. I'll be at the Raleigh Boat Show tomorrow in the White Lake Marine booth.

[NautiqueJeff]

Installed the new module this morning, and now I have no spark at all.

THIS IS A SIMPLE SYSTEM! Why is it giving me so much trouble?

The key switch is acting up now too, so I wonder if that may have something to do with it. It allows the key to spin 360 degrees, which is interesting. It seems to still function when the key is in the correct spots, but who knows if the ignition circuit is completing or not. I'll replace it this week and continue testing....

[jpwhit]

Did you install the black magnetic ring that came with the module over the original reluctance wheel?

With the ignition switch on, do you have 12V on the red wire of the module relative to the engine ground?

If yes to both of those, what is the primary coil resistance measured between the positive and negative post? Should be somewhere between 0.4 and 2 ohms.

[bturner]

I had a bad ignition switch start off as a high speed miss on one of my boats with a 351. It later got worse and would stop if you hit a wake at speed or were in some chop. Didn't figure it out until I accidently bumped the key while it was idling and the engine stopped. When I went to replace the switch and started pulling wires of the terminals the switch basically fell apart.

As to where you currently are.... As JP states, back to basics. Start with the basic checks on the coil. Find out what the impedance should be for the stock coil, then check/verify what you currently have. Do the impedance check between the negative side of the coil and the negative terminal of the battery to be sure you're in spec there. Check the voltage with key on, then key on cranking. Typically, a bad coil will just die but I have heard of some that will fail intermittently before giving up the ghost.

I'll admit that I once did a full conversion that wouldn't run after I completed it. I spent what felt like an hour checking voltages and troubleshooting before realizing I left the rotor out. Sometimes the answer is right there but you just can't see it. Best of luck, I'm sure you'll get this hammered out soon.

[NautiqueJeff]

Did you install the black magnetic ring that came with the module over the original reluctance wheel?

With the ignition switch on, do you have 12V on the red wire of the module relative to the engine ground?

If yes to both of those, what is the primary coil resistance measured between the positive and negative post? Should be somewhere between 0.4 and 2 ohms.

I did install the new magnetic ring.

I tested the voltage between the two posts of the coil with the key on and got..........ZERO. Tried grounding to the engine block, just in case and got...zero.

Do you think the questionable ignition switch might not be completing the ignition circuit? I have a new switch set to be delivered tomorrow so I'll install that and try again.

Now that the 2001 Ski Nautique is all fixed up, there is room for this boat in the boat house. No more working on it in the hot sun!

[jpwhit]

Yes, good chance it's the ignition switch.

[NautiqueJeff]

Woohoo! Key switch (and, of course, the new ignition module) fixed it!

I had to retime it again (funny how adding a cylinder will do that), but it is running much better now.

Now I just need to throw a windshield on it, pop the back seat back in, fix the one non-working Airguide, and enjoy it for the rest of the season before completely restoring it over the winter.

[Scooter G]

That's gotta be a great feeling! Good work Jeff!