2007 SV211 Refresh

[Rednucleus]

What's the boat speed in that pic? Waiting to see a skier in the next pic!

[FMSKI]

34mph but... nobody around that's able drive edit: Called up a buddy and I skied it, no video tho.
Went at 32 off, stubby pylon. Good news it felt like a tournament boat. Blasted out of the hole to speed like a rocket.
Wake was good but there still is a rooster hit, albeit 50% less. So if I can flatten that rooster then it's on par with a loaded 200/

Here's some video tho. With no grid you can't be falling off. The hydrogate on the 211, not very big, doesn't do as much as on the 200.
However, I am planning on doing multi-path flow interceptors either side of the hull.

Mode 1 - slide plate out and works like NSS for wave shaping
Mode 2 - slide plate back-in and then down and works like a hydrogate but either side to fill in trough for slalom
How cool is that?
Like my last boat, to keep things simple, plates are moved by hand and then 2x thumbscrews to retain in place.

I was considering buying a 200 just for skiing, but if I can get this 211 to rip 1/2 decent, then no need for 2nd boat.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_y5r1eS_B2/

[MN Ryan]

The platform is about 80 lbs. I weighed mine just year.

[FMSKI]

Here's the wake 32 off 34 mph. Skiing in rollers so on the back foot a bit and getting some double up effects. https://www.instagram.com/p/C_9Ao_iPOkE/

I think with my "NSS" plates I should (hoping to) be able to trim out the hollow and rooster for a pretty flat crossing

Yeah the stock platform is big and indestructible. Which I guess is the point. I like the size of it.

- Solid teak is not light and this platform is too big for that I think.
- Circa 2015 platforms are more of cap style, still heavy tho. My 200 had just two brackets and the middle was bowed in/sunk down.

In the past ....
I built a carbon fiber platform that was all of 10lbs. When new it was cool. But UV just killed it in like 3 years.
I then did a plywood platform with fir and fiberglass. Not 100% sealed, it rotted out too.

This time I am using marine plywood and I will use an Interlux white paint,
And I'll have a full EVA covering so that will help a lot too. Am going to fit the SS bump trim to dress it up as well.


Sea trials It was good. Not easy to fit the brackets, they are 1/2" out from factory. This platform does not go on easily either.
Had bare plywood today and photoshop for what it would look like in walnut. I like the EVA cover (over white) that's coming for sure. I think it will be better than the "Chariots of the Gods" pattern that was peculiarly complex.

[FMSKI]

Got the marine plywood dried out and it needs to be glassed up, then painted vs just painted. But needed something on the boat now. Got to thinkin' & found some really nice 1" cedar decking at the local building supply. Took me a few hours and built this deck actually on the boat, first laying down 27" +/- "joists" on the support brackets, then screwing the cedar planks using Hillman premium torx screws. Note, the planks are grooved down the middle for that 2" teak look.

Assembly complete, I removed the rectangular platform and cut it to shape back on land. Then stained it using a mix of varnish, turpentine, danish oil and walnut/grey stain mix to match the boat seadek. Idea to finish the edge w/ 3/4" aluminum trim made in my shop (vs buying Taco SS). Two corner pieces to do and it's done. Cedar is pretty light so @ 35lbs that's pretty good.

Outside or back radius is a bit off, that bothers(?) me. The decking array worked out shorter than stock and could have protected the transom radius curve vs flattened off at the back. But now I see the deck actually reflects the shape of the Nautique logo feature panel, and now the shape makes some sense.

This is all in the vein of prototype. Cedar is a light, soft, furry or messy kind of wood so I can see why it's not used in production boats. My wife thought it'd be slippery but it's not at all, despite the hint of gloss. In that respect, it is an organic form of EVA, which is cool!

- Good local cedar
- Deck construction
- Fastener selection
- Finishing components and mix
- Aluminum fabrication

[FMSKI]

Temporary platform in cedar, 35 lbs and working well. Pulled the tower. Tried to like the look of the tower, which is nicely built. But for a speed boat, they are ugly.
Skiing tonight 35 off. Went to 15 off it was OK too. The wake isn't too bad
The EVA for the marine plywood platform has arrived, so looking into glassing that up and painting. Might not get done this season.

The stock 3 pce engine panels are kind of kooky in that a) heavy and b) fold in with the ballast. Built these plywood 1 pce that slide in nice, won't fold in and are 1/2 the weight!

Last week or so before my season's done!

[FMSKI]

That is a thing of beauty, having a proper ski pylon. Now I can ski 38off vs having to be at 41 to miss the rooster.

Since last year was mulling over options on how to get a forward tow point. But decided to go for it all. Short notes are:

Cut-down an extended pylon to about 46" long. Thing is crazy heavy, something fabbed up sched 40? would be better I think but...
Going to tap in a 1/2" bolt mount at bottom, so it is twist on/off removable.
Using some really nice yellow cedar. Super strong stuff and durable. Will coat with epoxy paint
The 2x6, with 2.5" hole snugs the pylon like a glove.
The top bracing is M8 bolted through the floor, to M8 inserts in the wood, and also the supported by the alum tank strap mounts.
The bottom brace (with bolt) is bolted to a hull plate. But that glassed-in plate is kinda thin so will augment with alum angled brackets, epoxied to the V bottom.

Couple of observations - I realize now the stock u-bolt system isn't very good, it doesn't have much contact area on the pylon itself. We've had wobbly pylons over the years and even cranking down, doesn't seem to help. Ideally a tube within a tube. Also strange it's not easily removable, like my planned setup.
Having a solid stock pipe is way overkill, unless we are using it to pull stumps off the beach.

Skier max pull is 1000lbs / # (pro level). Rope breaks at 2000# in new condition. Have broken (old) ropes and bent handles before . Tubing mulitple dudes puts a huge strain that is 1500# or more. But this is for skiing only.

The top brace has to support pull back and side-side. The bottom is opposite has to resist forward kick and side to side.

[FMSKI]

Brings new meaning to Andy Mapple skiing a 2x6. Doing my best impression of Stockton Rush, delirious hubris & listening for creaks. ..... not for the faint of heart.
Let's be clear here, zooming out, this is all jury-rigged, inside of cigarette-pack engineering, prototyping, testing 1 of 1.

The result however, is spectacular skiing. Right out of the gate, first ski was perfect, from height of, placement in boat and PULL. OMG the pull is the most solid I have ever skied. The reason is the pylon is directly connected or bonded to the hull. It's not u-bolted, then stopped by aluminum, then bolted to the boat.

Recipe is :
Cut down and tapped-in base to 1/2", extended pylon from 1997.
Resin coated 2x6 base block attached to hull sole plate (sandwiching plate with acetal), Base has bonded-in 4x 1/2" SS bolt, allowing screw-in function.
2x6 Main support wth 2x3 "T: brace, mounted to inner decking using M8 screws and M8 threaded inserts (on wood)
~1mm gap to allow for screw-in.
Floor panel uses a stepped CNC fitting with 4x Hillam torx bit fasteners.

We have 6 sets on it now and will dismantle for inspection and resin coating. Does not budge while skiing, only a bit of pylon flex. This setup is a force multiplier/lever so if a skier pulls 500lbs the fulcrum support point will see the 1500lbs and lower 1000 lbs (approx). If the bracing is solid then each fastening point will share the load, which is what you want.

If you support the pole with two arms at the top, like the Teleflex (or what we built in our Glastron GT boat) then the top sees 500lbs and each arm 250lb. and base almost nothing.

The glassed-in sole plate from the factory - I don't know what the breaking strength is on that. The 1/2" thick upper deck has sufficient holding power from the engineering data I could find. The 3x fasteners up front for the main block and 2 for the T brace.

Consider the tower is held essentially by 3 bolts through the upper deck, each side. The rear 3 bolts don't do much (they are the point of rotation). The tower tow point is much higher so has more leverage on those 3 bolts. No wonder it's no tubing off the tower!

[FMSKI]

Lithium battery installed, a super-small ATX30 from AntiGravity. Hull mods are next.
Pretty close now, but should ski like a 200 when done!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DK7bj...RlODBiNWFlZA==

Summary: Forward tow point, Lightweight Platform, LW engine panels, lithium battery, no carpet, subwoofer delete

[FMSKI]

Pulled the boat to install the actual platform I was working on. ~ 35lbs so it's light and easy to handle.
1/2" Marine plywood, screwed and glued with underside bracing 1" total thickness, 1" SS screws to mount up,
Fiberglass (FG) re-inforced at joints and outer edges, Two coats poly resin over all of it
Three coats interlux Toplac - that paint gave me fits. Nice stuff but dries rubbery, had some wrinkling. I wish it was a two-part.
So for the bottom I used some epoxy two part floor paint, which goes on thick and hardens right up.
Installed the stainless trim but has a sharp edge so I used some chrome car wrap 1/2" strip, to cover that edge off.
Looks slick - hope it lasts!

PS: Good news we skied like 4 or 5 morning sets and my buddy isn't throwing the handle anymore

[FMSKI]

Got the "FMSS" or Fluid Motion Surf and Ski interceptors plates done, over the past 3 days, Started with a concept and sketches to figure it out.

Theory on function is that you drop down both sides for skiing. For surf, you retract one side, drop and slide out the opposing plate, just like NSS. The thumbscrews lock the plate in place after moving it around with the handle. The mid screw is a single lock point or can be used as a spare thumbscrew for the main 4 on the outer edges.

This is all prototype 1 of 1. Have yet to test it, will do that tomorrow or Monday

PS: The SV211 fusion hull has these two forward rails, like a mini "tri-hull" that lift the boat up and out, working with the Hydro gate. So the idea is to lift the transom even more at the corners, & create a triple rooster, flatten and fill the hollow divot and prop the boat up onto the bow planing surfaces. I could add lift at the front as well, but we'll see how this goes first. The transom is thinner than the ski nautiques, which is a good thing, less weight!

[SilentSeven]

Super interesting. How much weight do you think you've pulled from the boat?

[FMSKI]

The key thing on a SV211 (or a Vee drive) is the weight distribution and what are getting for the weight that is there.
I have pulled from the back 1/2 of the boat ~ 120lbs. Then the pylon is moved ahead by 4 feet, which moves mass, but also allows the Vee drive more leverage to resist the skier pull. The boat will squat less with the pylon forward. A skier is 50-500lbs of force.

The three rear panels could be re-made probably drop another 50lbs, which is nice to have.
The counter to dead mass (material that isn't required to float is producing lift through the hull, interceptors, foils etc.

Mission is ski in the morning, surf in the afternoon.
Setup has to be : feather weight & lift to full barge ballast and twist.

There is something to be said for the occasion of high-end slalom behind what could be a cabin cruiser.

[MN Ryan]

The amount of work you're putting into this project blows my mind. I assume tinkering like this is just hard-wired in your brain.

[FMSKI]

The design work is to avoid getting a 2nd ski-only boat, which I was considering last year. With these mods I think we are skiable enough. Also the surf-gate is a pain to install, have to get that thing low, barely able to crank the suction cups.

The good news is the FMSS deployed surf-mode looks great. In the video here, running the gate full down in ski mode flattens the wake/trough BUT creates a cacophony of roosters that is too wild. We skied 28 off and we were smacking those things. Not acceptable. However by retracting the gates fully up, I found there is enough lift created by just the mounting plates to trim the hull down. It's surprising how little bow-rise there is in full ski mode. It you were skiing long line 28 mph. fully down might be ok. The actual wake is certainly small runabout low. Just those crazy roosters

This is fully down at 34 mph. The wake behind the roosters is pretty low. Complete with hoonigan jet boat tails
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DLSiY..._web_copy_link