OIL

[mf01]

Is the reduction to 1500PPM enough Zinc for these engines? How many PPM does the straight weight have?

[mf01]

Well I went hunting tonight. I found many diesel oils, but they all seemed to have the new CJ-4 rating (lower zinc and phosporous). I looked at Chevron Delo (now only LE), Mobil Delvac, Castrol Tection, and Valvoline Premium blue, but all were CJ-4. The only one that wasn't was Mystic. My friend runs it in his Ram Cummins Diesel and swears by it, but it's a 20w50 not 15w40. Also, I could only find straight 30 weight at the three auto stores I went to (Autozone, O'reillys, Advance Auto). I can't remember if I saw straight 40 Rotella at Walmart, but I'll check tomorrow. If they have it, I guess that will be my oil of choice.

BTW, I did find one synthetic diesel oil without the CJ-4 rating, Royal Purple. It was $28/gallon. Since we don't need synthetic in our engines, I'd prefer to use something less expensive.

[DanielC]

I have a GT-40 engine with 1968 hours. My oil of choice is Valvoline 40 VR-1 racing.

[78LS2]

I work in the fuel and lubrication additive industry. While I have not researched the 15w40 Royal Purple, I have researched their gasoline oils. They are all old spec, and I would not use any of them.

I run Shell Rotella 15w40..in the boat, and GTO If you want to run some really good oil, score some 15w40 from Europe.

Also, synthetic oils use a different base oil. For our application, I would not run syn.

[mf01]

I have a GT-40 engine with 1968 hours. My oil of choice is Valvoline 40 VR-1 racing.

That's only 1300 PPM for Zinc. The old Rotella 15w40 had 1400 PPM. The new is 1200 PPM.

[mf01]

I work in the fuel and lubrication additive industry. While I have not researched the 15w40 Royal Purple, I have researched their gasoline oils. They are all old spec, and I would not use any of them.

I run Shell Rotella 15w40..in the boat, and GTO If you want to run some really good oil, score some 15w40 from Europe.

Also, synthetic oils use a different base oil. For our application, I would not run syn.

Do you have a GT40? Also, do you use the new triple protection Rotella 15w40?

[78LS2]

I work in the fuel and lubrication additive industry. While I have not researched the 15w40 Royal Purple, I have researched their gasoline oils. They are all old spec, and I would not use any of them.

I run Shell Rotella 15w40..in the boat, and GTO If you want to run some really good oil, score some 15w40 from Europe.

Also, synthetic oils use a different base oil. For our application, I would not run syn.

Do you have a GT40? Also, do you use the new triple protection Rotella 15w40?

Sorry, I should have clarified. I have an Excal 330. The older spec oil is OK if your engine is pre 2001. Of course, this is assuming that the oil is only one spec old. However, RP oil isn't exactly "cheap" so why not buy the most recent spec oil (for the same price or less than RP), which is backward compatible and offers better performance and protection?

I would not worry about the reduction in zinc at all. The oil will still offer excellent performance and anti-wear properties.

I will use the triple T next time I change the oil.

[greagin]

i have a 95 snob and have found the valvoline vr-1 sae 40 to be my best option after much research as it does have the zddp additive. just my .02.

[mf01]

Finally, found what I need. I found the straight 40 weight Rotella at Napa for 11.39/gallon. Since I live in Texas, I don't really need the multiweight.

[TRBenj]

Since I live in Texas, I don't really need the multiweight.

You'll be fine with the Rotella 40w, but where multiweight helps the most is during cold starts. Even if your climate is warm, your cold start temps will surely be lower than the 160-180 degree operating temps that your motor sees.

[mf01]

True, it'll probably be between 80-95 starting. Will it be significantly less protection during warm up? Should I idle around a little longer?

[TRBenj]

The problem isnt in the warm up- its at start up. Thats where most of the wear occurs. Definitely let the engine warm up gently, though. You dont necessarily have to let it idle until its up to temp, but dont start it and go WOT either.

[78LS2]

i have a 95 snob and have found the valvoline vr-1 sae 40 to be my best option after much research as it does have the zddp additive. just my .02.

I think all oils have the ZDP additive. I say think because I don't have knowlege of every single oil out there. Anyway, it has been around since the '40s. However, there are many different molecular structures / formulas of ZDP / ZDDP out there, so simply having one does not mean you are good to go.

Regarding the Royal Purple 15w40, I checked it out today on their website, and it is the old diesel spec. Thus, it is not the latest and greatest.

[TRBenj]

i have a 95 snob and have found the valvoline vr-1 sae 40 to be my best option after much research as it does have the zddp additive. just my .02.

I think all oils have the ZDP additive. I say think because I don't have knowlege of every single oil out there. Anyway, it has been around since the '40s. However, there are many different molecular structures / formulas of ZDP / ZDDP out there, so simply having one does not mean you are good to go.

Regarding the Royal Purple 15w40, I checked it out today on their website, and it is the old diesel spec. Thus, it is not the latest and greatest.

Correction- all oils used to have ZDDP. The latest API specs have taken aim at the heavy metal additives and reduced the allowable ppm in an effort to increase efficiency and reduce emmissions. Diesel oils have been the latest target of these reductions (within the last year or so) due to the particulate filters that are being installed on new vehicles.

Long story short, engine oil in general is becoming more slippery. This is great for new-tech motors (all roller) as it increases efficiency and reduces emmissions. This is not good for our old-tech flat tappet 351w's because we need the oil to stick to the metal-on-metal contact patches between the cam and lifters. If you have a flat tappet motor, read oil labels carefully- if an oil meets the new SJ spec, it has reduced heavy metals. Diesel oils arent a sure bet anymore- offroad and racing oils are where to look. Rotella-T straight weight (30w and 40w) and Valvoline Racing VR1 are 2 oils that Ive found to be good choices for my Ford-powered Correct Crafts. I prefer the VR1 because it offers multiweights (10w30 and 20w50).

[greagin]

Correct TRbenj, that is why after several months of off and on research i decided to go with the VR-1 SAE 40, as virtually no other oils have the ZDDP anymore. as i have read, Shell has removed the ZDDP from their multigrade oils also and it is only available in the 30W and 40W now. Allegedly the 15W-40 rotella no longer has the ZDDP additive.

I also have a diesel truck and a diesel excursion and i hate that chevron delo 400 oil has gone low emissions for the new motors as that was my favorite diesel oil because of the high content of molybdenum.