Tweet
I was asked by a few people how I did mine, so I figured I would do a little write up...
2003 SANTE Ballast Upgrade
Materials needed:
4 – ¾” npt 90 degree hose barb fittings
20-30’ of ¾” tubing
2 – Fly High “Wedge” sacs
This reviews how to install “Wedge” sacs on top of the factory ballast tanks in a 2003 – up SANTE.
(This was my original installation)
I started by removing the carpeted board that sits on top of the tanks. This is not required, but I didn’t want water to start mildewing under the sac in the carpet. I then removed the factory overflow hose from the top, rear of the tank. I then set the sac in place and routed a piece of ¾” hose from the overflow on the tank towards the front of the sac. I installed one of the 90 degree hose barb fittings into the fitting on the sac and pushed the hose onto it. I then installed another 90 hose bard fitting into the rear, top fitting on the sac and ran another short piece of hose to the overflow thru-hull fitting . Repeat the same process for the other side.
(Upgrade to original installation)
Materials needed:
2 – 11/16” rubber expansion plugs
2 – ¾” hose barb “T” fittings
4 – ¾” hose clamps
I very quickly found out that once the tanks were full and water should have been pushed to the sac that I had an issue. Water would flow out through the empty pump on the tank and out of the boat. I went to AutoZone and picked up some rubber expansion plugs. I can’t remember the correct size, but I think the were 11/16”. These have a 10mm nut that you can turn to expand the plug to fit the empty port thru-hull fitting on the outside of the boat. Once it’s plugged the sacs started to fill. Once the sacs were full the water spilled out of the overflow port just like having the factory routing. I then found my next issue. With the sacs full and under way while riding the sacs would siphon empty through the overflow because of the angle at which the sac was tilted and the short run to the outside. To fix this I removed the overflow hose and made a longer one that I routed down behind the tank and then back up out of the boat. Basically I created the trap similar to the one under your kitchen/bathroom sink. Once the sacs are full they will spill over the side like normal, but the trap keeps water from being siphoned out after filling. I also installed a “T” fitting in this hose. This way I had easier access to blow that trapped water out of the hose when it comes time to empty the sacs/tanks. If this isn’t done a suction is built up on the tanks causing them to empty slower and collapse. The hose barb “T” fittings I bought from AutoZone as well. They came from one of those cooling system flush kits. Unfortunately I had to buy 2 kits to get 2 correct size fittings. Two of the ends are barbed and the other has a screw on cap. I cut the overflow hose shortly after it leaves the sac and installed the “T” fitting, holding the hose in place with some clamps. I remove the cap, blow out the trapped water, and put the cap back on. Then I empty the sacs/tanks.
In all this upgrade doesn’t cost too much and works very well with the factory pumps. If you open the thru-hull shut-off valves while underway they sacs will fill up, so always remember to close them once your done filling. This comes in handy when you want to make filling faster on your way to the ride spot. Emptying the system works great also. As long as there is no trapped water in the overflow, they will empty out completely and not suck the tanks together.
I have also plumbed in a way to fill a V-drive sac in the bow, but it is more manual than automatic. Basically I installed some fittings, hose, and shut-off valves to use the factory fill/empty pumps for the belly tank, and use them to fill the V-drive sac in the bow. This requires opening up the door to access the belly tank and opening valves and connecting hose extensions, but I didn’t want to drill holes to route hoses. That could be done if you had one of those bow sacs they offer now though.
Hope all this info makes sense and can help someone wanting to add extra weight.
2003 SANTE Ballast Upgrade
Materials needed:
4 – ¾” npt 90 degree hose barb fittings
20-30’ of ¾” tubing
2 – Fly High “Wedge” sacs
This reviews how to install “Wedge” sacs on top of the factory ballast tanks in a 2003 – up SANTE.
(This was my original installation)
I started by removing the carpeted board that sits on top of the tanks. This is not required, but I didn’t want water to start mildewing under the sac in the carpet. I then removed the factory overflow hose from the top, rear of the tank. I then set the sac in place and routed a piece of ¾” hose from the overflow on the tank towards the front of the sac. I installed one of the 90 degree hose barb fittings into the fitting on the sac and pushed the hose onto it. I then installed another 90 hose bard fitting into the rear, top fitting on the sac and ran another short piece of hose to the overflow thru-hull fitting . Repeat the same process for the other side.
(Upgrade to original installation)
Materials needed:
2 – 11/16” rubber expansion plugs
2 – ¾” hose barb “T” fittings
4 – ¾” hose clamps
I very quickly found out that once the tanks were full and water should have been pushed to the sac that I had an issue. Water would flow out through the empty pump on the tank and out of the boat. I went to AutoZone and picked up some rubber expansion plugs. I can’t remember the correct size, but I think the were 11/16”. These have a 10mm nut that you can turn to expand the plug to fit the empty port thru-hull fitting on the outside of the boat. Once it’s plugged the sacs started to fill. Once the sacs were full the water spilled out of the overflow port just like having the factory routing. I then found my next issue. With the sacs full and under way while riding the sacs would siphon empty through the overflow because of the angle at which the sac was tilted and the short run to the outside. To fix this I removed the overflow hose and made a longer one that I routed down behind the tank and then back up out of the boat. Basically I created the trap similar to the one under your kitchen/bathroom sink. Once the sacs are full they will spill over the side like normal, but the trap keeps water from being siphoned out after filling. I also installed a “T” fitting in this hose. This way I had easier access to blow that trapped water out of the hose when it comes time to empty the sacs/tanks. If this isn’t done a suction is built up on the tanks causing them to empty slower and collapse. The hose barb “T” fittings I bought from AutoZone as well. They came from one of those cooling system flush kits. Unfortunately I had to buy 2 kits to get 2 correct size fittings. Two of the ends are barbed and the other has a screw on cap. I cut the overflow hose shortly after it leaves the sac and installed the “T” fitting, holding the hose in place with some clamps. I remove the cap, blow out the trapped water, and put the cap back on. Then I empty the sacs/tanks.
In all this upgrade doesn’t cost too much and works very well with the factory pumps. If you open the thru-hull shut-off valves while underway they sacs will fill up, so always remember to close them once your done filling. This comes in handy when you want to make filling faster on your way to the ride spot. Emptying the system works great also. As long as there is no trapped water in the overflow, they will empty out completely and not suck the tanks together.
I have also plumbed in a way to fill a V-drive sac in the bow, but it is more manual than automatic. Basically I installed some fittings, hose, and shut-off valves to use the factory fill/empty pumps for the belly tank, and use them to fill the V-drive sac in the bow. This requires opening up the door to access the belly tank and opening valves and connecting hose extensions, but I didn’t want to drill holes to route hoses. That could be done if you had one of those bow sacs they offer now though.
Hope all this info makes sense and can help someone wanting to add extra weight.
Comment