breakerless ignition / ballast resistor

[tapenick]

Investigating a problem on my 90 SN and found that the top of the rotor looked toasted and I think the end was burned off. Prestolite screw down - the rotor should have a 'T' on the end, right?

Plus, the contacts inside the cap looked like they had some metal smeared on them.

The boat has a breakerless ignition module:
http://picasaweb.google.com/tapenick...85794605325602

The power wire to the module bypasses the ballast resistor... so does the + to the coil. Wondering if the coil is getting too much power causing it to fry the cap / rotor? Thinking the power to the coil should still go through the ballast resistor.

One more - if so, think there may have been any damage to the coil?

Okay, one more easy one - the dizzy cap gasket is shot.... could I put a little silicon under it if the new cap doesn't have a gasket?



Tom

[tapenick]

RE: breakerless ignition / ballast resistor

Correction - that rotor should not have a 'T' on the end... but it still appears to have been getting pretty hot. Looks cooked where the coil wire comes in and as I said earlier the contacts inside the cap appear to have melted metal smeared on them.

Anyone know the part numbers for that cap / rotor?

[tapenick]

RE: breakerless ignition / ballast resistor

Talked to Richard over at SKIDIM this morning, he assured me that it was okay for the ballast resistor to be bypassed on my setup. He also said that the screw down caps do not need a gasket.

Described my problem to him and he seemed to think my base timing was off a little or possibly the air gap on the ignition module. I'll check that ASAP and post back.


Tom

[tapenick]

RE: breakerless ignition / ballast resistor

The problem I mentioned in the first post of this thread is a rough idle condition. When I go to gear it tends to stumble and I have to pump the throttle to keep it going.

Here are the items I've checked so far:


checked timing - okay (as far as I can tell, not sure of the exact idle rpm. it's 10 degrees BTC whatever rpm it's at (more below))


air gap on the ignition module seemed too close. actually looks like it may have been rubbing. loosened the adjustment screw and set at 0.008. (skidim recomendation)


sprayed carb cleaner around the intake / carb base looking for vac leaks, nothing.


checked idle / air - only out 1/2 turn. opened another 1/2 turn (both sides) and the idle smoothed out significantly. still seems like it's idling rough.

plugs / wires look relatively new, pulled #1 plug and it looked okay and was gapped around 0.038. tach doesn't work right, when I rev it to what I'm thinking is around 3k rpms it moves up to maybe 1k rpms. wondering if it's related... any ideas?