330 Excaliber running fault

[aikenis]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

Man you are all about using the computer. =) Does this engine use OBD2 like a car? Some others have posted in this thread that the computer usually doesn't help. You are certified and have some experience so I guess you would know.

[JUST-IN-TIME]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

on these new boats the diagnosis program gives you everything, you just do not trust it all the time or you become a parts changer
your condition you will need to go run it on the lake, and do some recording on it
your running MEFI 4
you want to read the manual?
i have the motor or MEFI one

[aikenis]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

Well a bad distributor cap and rotor will do it everytime. Boat is back running strong! Wahoo!

[JUST-IN-TIME]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

nice talking to you on the phone

[2gofaster]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

When I brought that up originally, I thought you said you'd replaced them? Regardless, glad to hear that it's resolved.

[saceone]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

how much did it cost you when everything was said and done?

[saceone]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

bump

how hard is it to change the distributor cap and rotor?

any links to a DIY?

[AirTool]

RE: Re: 330 Excaliber running fault

Easy...at least in a DD...not sure about v-drive. The v-drive engines are in backwards so the cap should be easily reachable. In my Tahoe, you have to lay across the engine to get to the cap. (Why couldn't chevy have done like Buick and Cadillac?)

In general for the vortec,

1. Take as many photos as you can with your digital camera. I think you wires should have the cylinder number on them already. The cap should as well. If not, mark them all with a sharpie or tape. Finally, the cap connections are in numerical order; not firing order. (Just about the time GM figured out how to master distributors and caps, they got rid of them.)

2. Take the wires off the old one by carefully twisting the wire before pulling. Then pull as you twist back and forth.

3. Take out the two screws on the cap...don't drop them. Lift off the cap.

4. Take out the two screws on the rotor....yep, don't drop them either. Pull the rotor off.

5. Put the new rotor on. Put the two NEW screws in. The screws have a lock paste. If you have to use your old screws, apply some lock paste. NOTE: it is the new screws that usually get dropped.

6. Look for and find the first screw you dropped.

7. These screws need to be pretty tight but not so tight to crack the plastic. If you have a torque-driver, let me know and I'll post the inch-pounds of torque required.

8. Put the cap on and install the two NEW screws. Ditto the torque.

9. Liberally apply silicon dielectric inside the boot of each spark plug wire. (Just buy the big tube, you'll be glad you did.) Push and twist each wire on its respective post on the cap.

10. Double check it all against your photos.

AirTool

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