prop removal

[c.shepherd]

Do you need a prop puller to remove a prop or is it easy for the weekend warrior?

[jward]

RE: prop removal

I have heard of people using a block of wood and a hammer but do not do this. Find a prop puller. I also had a friend that went to an auto zone and borrowed a puller of some sort that worked fine. They have a few different types of pullers that you can pay for and take back after use for a full refund. These are not prop pullers but like I said it will get the job done.

[SquamInboards]

RE: prop removal

Not always but you'll find it helps. Some props are easier than others, you can try giving it a few raps with a wrench while applying some constant pressure. It's worth having a puller, especially if you carry an extra prop with you.

[dba4life]

RE: prop removal

I didn't used to carry a puller. I regretted it one day. I now carry a puller.

I think your chances of getting the prop off without damaging it is low without a puller. How long has it been on there? You could also try an auto gear puller.

[Red57Bird]

A question that is somewhat on topic. When putting a prop on the shaft, I have never seen any mention of putting any type of grease in the key way. Would that help with prop removal?

[jos]

Just spend some money on an original puller. Surrely you damage the propeller, cost you more.

[SquamInboards]

It's not so much the metal-on-metal issue but it's a pressed fit with the taper on the shaft and the taper on the prop. But then again grease or anti-sieze never made two things harder to take apart.

[gride300]

i didnt need a puller on my mc b/c it has a tapered shaft w/ no key, but on my nautique , never having changed one before, i tapped the harmonic puller 3 or 4 times and it popped right off. i highly recommend it.

[AuMDLST]

Cannot say for sure in your case but I have changed several SANTE props with a block of wood and hammer - no damage whatsoever due to being careful in striking several locations lightly.

[8122pbrainard]

The taper fit on the shaft to the prop should NEVER be greased or lubricated. It is the taper that really transmits the HP and torque to the prop and really not the key and keyway. It's the same principle that holds the drill chuck spindle into a drill or drill press. When buying a new prop, the manufacturers will even recommend that you lap in the new prop to the shaft with valve lapping compound. This ensures a goof fit by removing and high spots. This taper fit is why we need pullers to get the props off! If you are able to remove the prop with a hammer and block of wood, then whoever put it on did a pathetic job.

[JUST-IN-TIME]

buy a puller

[SquamInboards]

8122, interesting - I had never thought of that as far as greasing the prop and or shaft, but it makes sense that you wouldn't want to allow it to slip more easily... However, I fail to see how it reflects poorly on the installer if the prop comes off with a couple taps, after days, weeks, or months of hard use. Some props come off easier than others; I have one boat that it comes off with a couple taps every time, others it takes a puller, a torch, and some swearing... nothing personal I just don't think that a prop coming off relatively easily indicates a "pathetic job" by anybody.

[8122pbrainard]

Squam, If a prop comes off with just a few taps of a hammer then there is something wrong with the taper. Most likely the prop because it is softer and will get damaged easier. This damage will happen if someone at one time never got the prop fully seated on the taper. OK, "pathetic" was too strong a word regarding the prop install. I should have said a uneducated person that shouldn't be under the boat changing props without proper help and instruction. The taper needs to be checked and as I mentioned. lapping it in to the shaft may be required. Lapping will immediatly show any high spots or an bad taper. It doesn't matter how long or how hard a boat is used. The prop should only come off with a puller. If the taper is real bad and lapping doesn't do it then a prop shop can re ream the taper.

[SquamInboards]

You know, that could explain in part the slight vibration that I have been experiencing with one boat. I have aligned the engine carefully but even with a new (rebuilt) prop there is a slight vibration. One prop I have makes it go away almost completely, which makes sense if the taper on that particular prop is maybe a little better matched to the shaft. No worries about the "pathetic" comment I was just trying to clarify what you meant. I hadn't considered an imperfection in the taper to be a possible cause of the vibration (after covering all the usual bases) and also the reason why that particular boat always lets its prop go with a couple taps. On that note I may try the lapping next time I have the boat out of the water.

[Red57Bird]

The taper fit on the shaft to the prop should NEVER be greased or lubricated. It is the taper that really transmits the HP and torque to the prop and really not the key and keyway. It's the same principle that holds the drill chuck spindle into a drill or drill press. When buying a new prop, the manufacturers will even recommend that you lap in the new prop to the shaft with valve lapping compound. This ensures a goof fit by removing and high spots. This taper fit is why we need pullers to get the props off! If you are able to remove the prop with a hammer and block of wood, then whoever put it on did a pathetic job.

Just got my Acme 644 prop on Friday and while looking through the removal and installation instructions, it says to put a thin coating of lube/grease on the shaft taper prior to installing the prop to make removal easier later on.