Boat Trailer - Slack @ take off

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • hkyplyr31
    • Jul 2008
    • 8



    #16
    if it was a real bother you could see if you could have a shock welded to both sides of the trailer. that should slow it down when you take off.

    Comment

    • FLCERIK
      • Jun 2005
      • 68

      • Reno, Nevada


      #17
      You should not be able to move the unit by hand. I would think the plunger unit is bad or you have air in the brake lines from when the master cylinder was replaced.

      Comment

      • cakirk2004
        • Jun 2007
        • 76



        #18
        Sounds like you have air in the lines. You will need to bleed the air out of the lines, you will need help to do this, someone to work the tongue back and forth and keep check on the fluid level (don't let it get empty) while someone works the bleeders on the calipers at each wheel.

        Comment

        • wakekat
          • Oct 2005
          • 22

          • Spicewood, TX

          • 1993 Nautique Excel, 1998 1st SAN made, 2003 SAN 210, 2009 SAN 210

          #19
          Now that you mention it, I had this problem years ago on a different trailer and think it was due to air in the lines. Appreciate all of the suggestions.

          PS Also found a parts diagram for the actuator online. Look @ page 14 - Think replacing item #11 would help?
          http://www.trailersbydorsey.com/Webs...%20Catalog.pdf

          Comment

          • jhiestand
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • Jul 2003
            • 778

            • Columbus, Ohio

            • 08 Super Air 210

            #20
            My actuator used to have the "clunk" on takeoff when I had a Titan actuator but the UFP I now have (same as yours) takeoff is smooooooth. Looking at your picture the actuator is compressed all the way. Unless you're backing up a decent incline or you've got some pretty big pressure on the hitch I'd be suspect you've got air in your lines. Easiest thing to check is bleeding the lines. You'll get too much actuator movement if it's compressing air.

            More drastic is maintenance on your UFP actuator. Here's a great article on a teardown and bleeding. I used it when putting my new system together.

            http://www.bryantboatowners.com/foru...ticle&k=64
            '08 Super Air Nautique 210

            Comment

            • wakekat
              • Oct 2005
              • 22

              • Spicewood, TX

              • 1993 Nautique Excel, 1998 1st SAN made, 2003 SAN 210, 2009 SAN 210

              #21
              Jhie.....that is a most excellent link. Thanks so much! I've ordered the parts from Dorsey and that link will be very helpful! Also, I just got new brakes/brake lines and they bled the air from them.

              Comment

              • 81nautique
                • Feb 2006
                • 257

                • Big Rock, Illinois

                • 2012 200 Sport 1956 Correct Craft Collegian Past boats 1955 Correct Craft Hurricane 81 Anniversary Nautique 1960 GlassCraft Ski Nautique #1

                #22
                New master but you can move the surge unit by hand, did you bleed the system to get the air out after installing the new master?

                Comment

                • gsxrgessler
                  • Jan 2005
                  • 45

                  • Minneapolis/St. Paul

                  • 2001 Super Air

                  #23
                  Judging by the photo, it looks like the brake actuator is completely bottomed out. This should not happen - especially when the car is at rest (as it was for the photo).

                  This tells me that you probably have either a leaking line, low fluid, bad plunger, or the brakes are out of adjustment.

                  Unhook the trailer, jack up the front axle (or both axles if you have brakes on all four), have someone rotate the tires by hand while you actuate the brakes. I use a prybar to lever the actuator manually - you'll have to look at how you can apply enough force to push the tongue in & actuate the brakes.

                  When you actuate the brakes, the guy spinning the wheel should find it totally impossible to get the wheels to turn.

                  A little clunk is normal, but guessing that you are experiencing something significant here...and if the actuator is running the full stroke when you are taking off, you definitely are experiencing something out of the norm.

                  Let us know what you find!
                  :grin:

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X