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I've done a search but I can't seem to find the exact info I'm looking for. I have a 2001 Air Nautique with a PCM 5.0 HO engine. The engine light is coming on but analog gauges show everything to be normal. I searched the forum awhile back and I remember someone mentioning that oil pressure and temp each have 2 sensors. One sensor that is basically a switch factory set at a certain point and the other is a sensor that is basically a thermocouple thus changing the resistance value and operating the analog gauge. As temperatures are reading normal and rise as the engine warms and pressures change with RPM the problem seems to be a fautly switch. My problem is that I can't find any information as to the location of the switches. I am assuming the 5.0 is a Ford engine and is not very common. Can someone point me in the right direction for the switches?? Thanks alot.
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RE: Check engine light
Where is the distributer on the engine. On the front, Ford. On the rear, GM motor. -
It is in the rear directly behind the throttle body. I didn't know that GM made a 5.0?Comment
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Yes, GM makes a 5.0 L engine. They even call it a 302. Sorry, I am more familar with Ford engines.Comment
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Anyone else have an idea??Comment
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It is a 305 chevy...not a 302. I believe you are going to need a code reader....maybe ODB2 auto or maybe one of these.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RIN94008
I don't think your problem is either of the temp or oil gauge senders or switches. The oil pressure "switch" will look like this ...it will have one pin and goes to ground after sensed pressure passes the low set point (pressure to close)
http://info.rockauto.com/Airtex/Detail.html?1S6753.jpg (example only)
The temp "switch" will be somewhere on the intake manifold or stat cover and also have only one wire. Should be "open" during normal ops and close on high temp...circa 210?
Both gauge senders should have two wires but are working properly per your description.
AirToolComment
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Since the sensors are normally open contacts I should be able to lift the wire one at a time to find the bad sensor??Comment
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That sounds like a good idea to me. You do not have to buy any code readers, just do some trial and error checks.
Do only one thing at a time, and replace it.
If necessary, do not be afraid, or too proud to take notes on everything you move, or change. so you can put it back.
I do not mean to be condescending, but this forum is read by people with all levels of mechanical knowlege, and understanding of automotive, and marine electrical systems.Comment
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I still believe that none of the four are lighting your MIL...however if I'm wrong, it's the PSL. You can test the PSL by removing the wire then grounding the wire. You can also ground the TSH wire....not sure how your system will respond but the event should simulate high temp.Originally posted by goreak
The two gauge senders are not normally open. The have a variable resistance as a function of the measured variable. You'll need to test those with an Ohm meter but you've already confirmed those are not your problem.
Ditto the comments on photos. A picture is worth a thousand memories when it comes to putting something back together.
AirToolComment
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Where would I plug in a code reader if I need to.Comment
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Not sure on that year....I believe my 2006 has the connector dangling on the port side / front of engine....hangs just down to the valve cover behind the serp belt so it doesn't get snagged.
AirToolComment
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Update ?Comment
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