Depth gauge instrument location...2006 210SE

[xrichard]

Where/how would you recommend mounting the depth gauge on a 2006 210SE? All the stock instrument holes are occupied (tach, speedo, oil, fuel, temp, volts).

Thanks!!

[DanielC]

RE: Depth gauge instrument location...2006 210SE

I would move the fuel guage. If it suddenly drops a lot, you have other major problems to worry about.

[Mikeski]

RE: Depth gauge instrument location...2006 210SE

Toss that useless analog voltmeter and replace it with the depth gauge, then put one of these real voltmeters somewhere else:

http://www.lascarelectronics.com/tem...datalogger=116

or just search for the "lascar emv 1200"

You will get lots more out of this gauge than you will from the analog gauge.

[8122pbrainard]

Re: RE: Depth gauge instrument location...2006 210SE

Toss that useless analog voltmeter and replace it with the depth gauge, then put one of these real voltmeters somewhere else:

http://www.lascarelectronics.com/tem...datalogger=116

or just search for the "lascar emv 1200"

You will get lots more out of this gauge than you will from the analog gauge.

I don't see that this gauge has any waterproof rating. The EMV1200 doesn't come up if you use their search for "waterproof" gauges. I do see they sell auxillary bezels to waterproof but they only fit their 700 and 900 series. I'd be carefull with using this gauge.

Mikeski, I'm wondering why you consider the analog volt meter "useless"?

[DanielC]

The fuel gauge is the only one that does not change rapidly during boat operation. The original question was, what gauge should I move?
When I want to diagnose an electrical problem, I get out my Fluke multimeter, so I can check the voltage at various points in a circuit.
Since "normal" charging voltage is anywhere from 13.5 to 14.5 volts, I really do not need digital pinpoint precision on the voltage. I want to know if the belt fell off, and the alternator is working. As long as the voltage is high enough to run the motor, the accessories I want to run, and charge the battery, and then not damage anything from overvoltage I do not care the actual voltage is.
I do not have a kilowatt stereo system in my boat, or a speed control system, other than my right hand, so I do not have as critical need to know what the voltage is.

[Mikeski]

I have not had any trouble with mine, it has a rubber gasket on the backside. I don't spray my dash directly but it has been through several rainstorms without issue.

The analog gauge just does not have enough resolution to be of value to me. My perfect pass can tell me the voltage of my starting battery bank more accurately than the analog gauge. I get just as much feedback from the starter or listening to the tone produced by my ballast pump as I get from the analog gauge. The limited resolution of the factory voltmeter really only makes it useful as a diagnostic tool, not an informational tool, for my purposes.

Anybody need a white faced Faria voltmeter???

[8122pbrainard]

The limited resolution of the factory voltmeter really only makes it useful as a diagnostic tool, not an informational tool, for my purposes.

Mike, I feel your idea is backwards. Daniel hit it correctly that you get the DMM out for diagnostics and the analog for the daily information.

I'm glad you haven't had any problems with moisture yet. With the company specifically having other gauges with a moisture ratings and making bezels to waterproof others it must be a issue. I won't want someone else to have the problem.

[Mikeski]

To me the analog voltmeter is absolute useless. The perfect pass low voltage beep is a good idiot gauge to tell you when your voltage is getting low.

I wanted a depth gauge, I didn't want to cut a new hole in the dash that did not match the factory recessed holes, so I sacraficed the voltmeter even before I added the digital voltmeter.