Problem with Low Pressure Fuel Line

[Red57Bird]

Ran into a problem during winterization this weekend and need some info. The FCC on my 03 SANTE with 330 Excalibur motor is a bit hard to drain because the remote oil lines run right below it. So I decided to remove the high and low pressure fuel lines so that I could remove the canister and drain the fuel. When reinstalling the lines, I tightened the low pressure line too much and the brass fitting on the fuel line cracked.

Any idea what is involved in replacing this line? I didn't see a joint anywhere on the line where it could be replaced. It appears to be a single line that is part of the fuel rail. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Latonkaboarder]

RE: Problem with Low Pressure Fuel Line

I am not sure exactly which line you are talking about but would it be possible to use a compression fitting to fix the line. You would have to cut the line somewhere you have access to it and attach another piece of line with a compression fitting. If it is a low pressure line it should work without any problems or leaks.

[Red57Bird]

Attached is a clip from the parts manual that shows the fitting that is cracked. Unlike what the diagram shows, the other end of the line goes to the fuel rail and I didn't see any place where is seemed to attach of connect. It simply looked like an complete single unit. I'm hoping that this is an easy fix and I've simply overlooked something.

[M3Fan]

If it's attached to the top of the FCC it's either the feed or return for the fuel rail. In either case, wouldn't both fittings be somewhat high pressure? Even the return? The only "low pressure" connections in my mind would be the feed from the LPP or the return to the gas tank, both located on the side of the FCC.

[Red57Bird]

The line fitting that is cracked is the return line from the fuel rail back to the FCC - low-pressure line was the wrong way to describe it. I believe that the return line is lower pressure compared to the line going to the fuel rail. I remember when removing the return line, that it took no effort to remove the fitting, while the supply line to the rail was on fairly snug.

[M3Fan]

It's worth a quick call to SkiDim.

[Red57Bird]

Yep - got a call into them now. Figured I'd see if anyone on PN had run into the same issue. First time I have ever winterized a boat and it may well be my last. Took me all day, I feel like I got hit by a train (not a lot of room on these v-drive boats and I was in all kinds of contorted positions), and I have cuts from my hands down to my feet. The FCC problem was just the icing on the cake.

[Miljack]

I think the fitting could be replaced, and then have the hose either "swedged" or crimped. You could also replace the brass fitting on the top of the FCC and the hose end with Aeroquip or Earl's fitting from the (car)racing world.

[Red57Bird]

Ended up talking to Richard at Skidim about this fuel line. I have sent several e-mails on various items, called them on the phone, and placed several orders with them over the last couple of months, and I have had nothing but great experiences with them. Awesome company to work with. Anyway, that fuel line is replaceable and not all that expensive - less then $40. When I go back up to the lake house, I'll work on that and some other projects.

Thanks for the replies and advice - it is greatly appreciated.

[2gofaster]

Good to hear skidim fixed you up. In a pinch, you could've taken the line to a hydraulic supply store and they can crimp a new hose end on. Those are 37 degree JIC hose ends(same as the aeroquip or earles fittings mentioned above), so they don't need to be tightened down like if they were pipe thread fittings. The JIC fittings seal based on their design so snug + 1/4 turn will usually do it. To crack that, you must have threw some muscle at it! lol

[Red57Bird]

Richard at Skidim made the comment that you don't need to cinch these down very tight. The return line fitting is pretty thin and it really didn't take a lot of effort to crack it. Looking forward to getting this fixed - I can tell you I was pretty bummed when I noticed the crack.

[Red57Bird]

OK, I'm reviving this thread I started last year. Had no time this winter to do anything with the boat since I've been working on finishing out our basement. Anyway, this past weekend I had some time and figured take a look at replacing the fuel return line. I have two issues.

First, the connection to the fuel rail has me confused. I can not for the life of me figure out how to remove the line. Looking at the new line, there are four "clips" on the inside of the fitting that look like they keep the line in place. They are angled and seems like you should be able to slid the line right off, but I've had no luck. I'm wondering if there is some kind of special tool used to retract these clips so that the line can be removed.

Second, and this one is a bit embarrassing. With a cracked fuel fitting I was concerned about leaving the FCC fuel pump plugged in so I left it unplugged. Well now I can't find the female plug that it connects to. I looked for 15-20 minutes and had no luck. Does anyone have a reference point that I can use to find the correct connection?

[skijones]

The fitting you are working with is the same as an a FI equiped car. Any auto parts store should have the tool you need for less than 5-10$. Clip it over the line, push into the fitting and pop it off. Just be careful of the o-ring on the fitting, might be a good idea to get a new one if the new line does not include one.

Reassemble the same way, make sure no leaks when system is pressurized. Fairly simple but double check all connections when working on fuel lines. Better safe than sorry.

As far as the electrical connection, it's got to be there somewhere. While at the parts store, pick up a mirror with an extension on it. They can be used for many things and are cheap to boot.

Good luck.

[Red57Bird]

skijones - thanks very much for the info. I'll have to swing out at lunch today and pick one of those tools up.

[Red57Bird]

Had a chance to work on the boat Saturday. I picked up a small tool kit for fuel injection and AC lines and was able to get the broken line off and a new line put in. Next came the hunt for the fuel pump electrical connection. I looked for 20 minutes and finally found it tucked up underneath the spark plug wires.

While I was in there, I figured I'd replace the belts and the impeller. Not sure what tricks there are to removing the impeller from the housing, but that was a pain. Ended up pulling it out with pliers in pieces, so it can't be used as a spare. Next weekend I'm replacing all of the plug wires and that should wrap it up until winter. Thanks to you all for the ideas and advice.