Removing Ballast Lines from Barbed Fittings

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  • Red57Bird
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Aug 2007
    • 381

    • Raleigh, NC/Lake Gaston

    • 2003 Super Air

    Removing Ballast Lines from Barbed Fittings

    One final thing to do for winterization is to add antifreeze to the fill lines for the rear ballast in my 03 SANTE. The easiest way for me to do that is remove the fill line from the tank and pour antifreeze down the line and then run the fill pump quickly. I tried to remove these lines last weekend but had no luck - with the barbed fittings it seems **** near impossible to remove them.

    Anyone have the secret on how to remove these lines? Thanks.
    2003 SAN (current)
    2003 Chaparral 220 SSi (sold)
  • Andrew
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Aug 2005
    • 891

    • Tuscaloosa, AL


    #2
    RE: Removing Ballast Lines from Barbed Fittings

    pour some boiling water on them and twist....

    Comment

    • WakeSlayer
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Sep 2005
      • 2069

      • Silver Creek, MN

      • 1968 Mustang

      #3
      RE: Removing Ballast Lines from Barbed Fittings

      Could you just pour some down into the vent line?
      the WakeSlayer
      1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
      1968 Correct Craft Mustang

      Comment

      • Red57Bird
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Aug 2007
        • 381

        • Raleigh, NC/Lake Gaston

        • 2003 Super Air

        #4
        My thinking is that since the 03's used the 2 pump system (one to fill, one to empty) that the vent lines will only help the empty pumps. If I remove the fill lines from the tanks and pour the AF in, then this will flow down to the fill pumps and provide protection. Am I on the right track, or am I making this too complicated?
        2003 SAN (current)
        2003 Chaparral 220 SSi (sold)

        Comment

        • DanielC
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Nov 2005
          • 2669

          • West Linn OR

          • 1997 Ski Nautique

          #5
          I think it is possible to remove all the water from a 2003 ballast tanks by sucking on the out port, on the side of the boat, with a shop vac. You may have to tip the bow of the boat up or down to make sure you got all the water out.

          Comment

          • Red57Bird
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • Aug 2007
            • 381

            • Raleigh, NC/Lake Gaston

            • 2003 Super Air

            #6
            Probably should have done that before I filled the tanks with AF. What I'm really worried about is water left in the fill lines and fill pumps. Thanks for the tip though.
            2003 SAN (current)
            2003 Chaparral 220 SSi (sold)

            Comment

            • JUST-IN-TIME
              • Sep 2007
              • 293

              • ON YOUR BOAT


              #7
              u need a pick
              sometimes they were glued on

              HUMAN BUILT = HUMAN FIXED

              CERTIFIED MARINE/PWC TECHNICIAN
              switchbait.com

              Comment

              • Red57Bird
                Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                • Aug 2007
                • 381

                • Raleigh, NC/Lake Gaston

                • 2003 Super Air

                #8
                Don't know if this is common or not, but my ballast lines have two worm clamps per connection, plus a barbed fitting. I kinda think that is MAJOR overkill. Why all the hardware for a low-pressure application?? Seems pretty stupid to me - does nothing but frustrate me as I'm trying to service the boat. I'm seriously considering replacing the hard tanks and going with sacks next spring. That would also allow more room in the engine compartment for winterizing/servicing.
                2003 SAN (current)
                2003 Chaparral 220 SSi (sold)

                Comment

                • MUSHEZ
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 24

                  • Mangakino, New Zealand


                  #9
                  I did this to fit a SANTE sack system from Fly High on our 06 220 - and after hours, ended up cutting them off to get them off.

                  http://www.fatsac.com/FlyHigh/FlyHighSacs.html#superair

                  Good Luck on an older unit, yes did the boiling water, everything.
                  **************************************************
                  Hamish Russ - New Zealand
                  Current - 2006 Super Air Nautique 220 Team Edition
                  ex 2006 Ski Nautique 206
                  ex 1989 Sea Ray 180BR
                  ex 1979 15ft Plylite

                  www.wakepro.co.nz

                  Comment

                  • 8122pbrainard
                    • Jul 2007
                    • 255

                    • Unknown


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Red57Bird
                    Don't know if this is common or not, but my ballast lines have two worm clamps per connection, plus a barbed fitting. I kinda think that is MAJOR overkill. Why all the hardware for a low-pressure application?? Seems pretty stupid to me - does nothing but frustrate me as I'm trying to service the boat.
                    Not according to the USCG regulations! All below the waterline hose connections must be double clamped. You won't think of them as a "MAJOR" overkill if the connection fails!! What's the big deal of removing two clamps? Leave one of the clamps off so the next service won't be" frustrating".

                    Comment

                    • Red57Bird
                      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                      • Aug 2007
                      • 381

                      • Raleigh, NC/Lake Gaston

                      • 2003 Super Air

                      #11
                      8122pbrainard - Not sure what I did to warrant your response, but I'd appreciate a little less attitude next time. A simple, courteous reply would have been sufficient. Also not sure why you put the word frustrating in quotes - I guess according to you I don't have the right to get frustrated working on my boat?

                      My rear tank connections are not below the waterline, in fact they are well above the waterline. I guess I should have been a bit more specific with what I meant by overkill. The two clamps don't bother me at all. But the fact that they are barbed, and according to some accounts used glue as well, makes me think this is overkill.
                      2003 SAN (current)
                      2003 Chaparral 220 SSi (sold)

                      Comment

                      • 8122pbrainard
                        • Jul 2007
                        • 255

                        • Unknown


                        #12
                        Red57,
                        I went back and read my post and yes it does sound like I'm coming down on you. Sorry but that really wasn't the intent. My wording however, does show that i do get upset when it comes down to marine safety. I've seen too many hazards created when someone runs down to Autozone and gets non marine components like carbs , fuel pumps, or runs rubber fuel line (non USCG pressure rated) between the fuel pump and carb. Regarding the double hose clamps, I have seen failures with single clamping. On the frustrating issue, it really is common and you have to get used to. Nothing nowadays is made with servicing in mind. A automotive AC evaporator coil on most cars is a prime example!!

                        I'd use a hot air gun on plastic hose to soften it up but on rubber hose, yes I've had to cut them off!!

                        Comment

                        • DWhitt
                          • Apr 2006
                          • 140

                          • Gainesville, GA

                          • 2006 SAN 220 TE Previous Boat: 2002 SAN 210 TE

                          #13
                          Would it be easier to pull the hose off at the pump and let the water drain out? This is assuming it's all downhill from the tank to the pump. Even if it's not, just use an air compressor to blow any trapped water into the tank and pour some AF into the tank.

                          Comment

                          • Red57Bird
                            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                            • Aug 2007
                            • 381

                            • Raleigh, NC/Lake Gaston

                            • 2003 Super Air

                            #14
                            8122pbrainard - no worries. I'm a firm believer as well in the "better safe than sorry" approach. I have seem others put non-marine or USCG approved stuff in their boat and that is something I'll never do. Your comment about nothing is made with servicing in mind is so true. I'll give Mercruiser one thing - their single valve engine drain system is awesome!! Had it on my Chaparral and it really was nice.

                            PCM makes a great motor but it really wouldn't take much effort to improve their serviceability, especially on v-drives. Single valve drain, easier access to the FCC drain, utility hose for adding antifreeze to motor, better placement of remote oil filter (i.e. on the same side of the motor so hoses don't run from one side of the motor to the other), better access to the transmission dipstick, etc. I'm sure a lot has changed since 2003, but CC could also make some changes in boat design to help as well.

                            Next time I'm at the house I'll give the hair dryer/heat gun idea a try. If I end up having to cut the hoses, I'll splice in a "t" that I can use to run antifreeze through,
                            2003 SAN (current)
                            2003 Chaparral 220 SSi (sold)

                            Comment

                            • DanielC
                              1,000 Post Club Member
                              • Nov 2005
                              • 2669

                              • West Linn OR

                              • 1997 Ski Nautique

                              #15
                              On some of the plastic ballast hoses they have a spiral design. If you turn the hose in a direction that opens up the spiral slightly, the hose might come off easier.
                              This will sound blunt. Owning a ski boat, and skiing, I do not have to worry about ballast hoses. Parts left off a boat cause no service problems, and add nothing to the price of a boat.
                              You chose a boat with ballast tanks. Some places are starting to legislate and regulate power boat use due to the damage caused by excessive wakes.

                              Comment

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