quick drain ideas for the trans. cooler on a DD??

[Miljack]

Anyone set up a quick drain for the transmission cooler on a DD? I think the hose is 1.5" (?), and on my setup, the raw water is pulled into the engine through the trans. cooler first, then into the RWP.

thanks

[Hollywood]

Splice in a plugged T at the lowest point of that hose under the engine. Orient it downward so all you have to do is remove the plug.

[Miljack]

I just measured that raw water hose and it's 1 1/4", anyone know where I can get a T such as Hollywood described? I think the Prestone auto units are typically for heater sized hoses (1/2"-3/4"), but maybe they make one in this size?

[Hollywood]

Make sure you are measuring your hose I.D.

https://www.clearpvcpipe.com/index.a...amp;ProdID=419

Your neighborhood ACE should have some kind of T - pipe thread fitting that would work.

[AirTool]

I just measured that raw water hose and it's 1 1/4", anyone know where I can get a T such as Hollywood described? I think the Prestone auto units are typically for heater sized hoses (1/2"-3/4"), but maybe they make one in this size?

Lowe's has the grey fittings. You'll need insert x insert x npt tee with a threaded plug.

http://www.lascofittings.com/Product...nserts.xls.pdf

http://www.lascofittings.com/Products/productpdf.asp

I suggest a "sealant" on the threads...not tape.

AirTool

[TRBenj]

What engine do you have? A PCM Ford (GT40 or otherwise) uses 1" hose. The Python may use 1-1/4". (Hose is measured by ID).

Im all for speeding up the winterization process, but is pulling the lower hose to the cooler a big deal?

[8122pbrainard]

Im all for speeding up the winterization process, but is pulling the lower hose to the cooler a big deal?

Tim,
I do agree but you also have to consider all the problems that come up in spring. "my engine runs hot what's the problem?" Only to find out that the hose connection to the cooler is sucking air. Since the oil coolers no longer have drain plugs in them and have been relocated so they are no longer the low point, I like the idea. So far, I haven't had a air sucking problem but, I may want to do it to my Tique!!!

[MNSuperAir]

This is what I have been thinking of getting.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM001

[Hollywood]

The problem I see with the exhaust manifold elbows is that you cannot probe them with a wire incase they get clogged up with rust and scale.

Keep the dedicated tools with the boat and it will be just as simple. For our 88 I have a 1/2" drive socket for removing the exhaust manifold plugs, engine plugs are 9/16" socket size, a 3/8"??? nut driver for the hose clamps, and finally a 1/2" socket size to pull off the RWP. Bada bing bada boom it is "winterized" with 4 tools.

I have thought about adding a drain T in the hose like the topic of this thread, but since I pull off the RWP the trans cooler will drain anyhow.

[M3Fan]

What engine do you have? A PCM Ford (GT40 or otherwise) uses 1" hose. The Python may use 1-1/4". (Hose is measured by ID).

Im all for speeding up the winterization process, but is pulling the lower hose to the cooler a big deal?

The DD GT40 trans cooler lies horizontally, parallel to the floor, but is still easy to winterize. I do it by sucking 3 gallons of AF through it Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

HW, I believe the standard hose clamp socket is 5/16".

[DanielC]

What engine do you have? Is the tranny cooler in a location that it will not drain by moving hoses around?
On my boat, when I remove the raw water pump to inspect the impeller, just holding the end of the hose, that went to the bottom of the pump, down in the bilge drains the transmission cooler.
Parts NOT installed in a boat cost nothing, and create no service problems. If you add a t-fitting, you have the fitting that could break, the plug on the fitting that could leak, two hose clamps that could break, and two hose connections that could leak.

[Miljack]

my boat has the Python engine, and it's 1 1/4" id on the RW intake hoses. I'm still using the boat (rode last Sunday ~60 air/57 water) so I would like to make the draining the water out of the engine almost automatic. I installed the quick drain kit from skidim (they work great), and now just wanted to find something for the trans cooler and we can probably keep the boat in the water until the end of the year.

The barbed t's don't really appeal to me much because they are a bI^%$ to get hoses off of them. I picked up some of the Preston flush n fill kits for the heater hoses, but they biggest t in that kit is 3/4" . I'm mulling it over, but may just have to reach in there and use a screwdrive and pry the hose off the cooler...

[8122pbrainard]

This is what I have been thinking of getting.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM001

This kit doesn't include anything to drain the oil cooler we've been talking about. How have you been draining it? Draining methods vari depending on it's position as pointed out.

BTW, I've always been surprised at Skidim selling that kit as they are noted as being a quality company. As mentioned, the kit is worthless because you can't probe for sediment/scale.

[mf01]

I didn't even think about draining the trans cooler until a month ago. Last winter I just drained the 2 engine, 2 manifold, and t-stat elbow. I'm not sure if I even need to drain these, since my boat sits in a garage attached to a home (lowest I've seen the garage get is 50 degrees).

[WakeSlayer]

I'm mulling it over, but may just have to reach in there and use a screwdrive and pry the hose off the cooler...

One of these will be way easier, especially if you have not had them off. HD has them for like $5.