Trying to avoid second tragedy.

[coopline]

Hi,
Sorry if this appears twiice. It really looked like it didn't take the first time.
Hello everybody,
I am very glad to have found you as I need help. Sorry if this gets drawn out but there is a fair bit of detail needed to explain. Firstly I live in Australia and not close to a major city either. The only PCM dealer in this country is 3000 kms away and doesn't specialize in Nautique or PCM for that matter so basically we are on our own except for what we can find in the manuals and by the internet.
We bought a 2004 196 ski with a ZR6 in it about 2 years ago. It was an ex club boat used for one and a half seasons on a salt water site and had about 700 hrs on it. Nautiques are rare over here but I spent a few years in the states back in the 90s and fell in love with them so when this came along we checked it out and jumped in. It really was kept in good condition and well serviced. Being a saltwater boat is not ideal but then again the ZR6 is freshwater cooled.

Anywho thats a bit of history. We did services ourselves ; as you all know the basics of oil, filters ,belts and water pumps is pretty straight forward. That is until it goes wrong. Complacency was our mistake and it was a big one. We had just done a basic oil and filter. We went back in the water, warmed the boat up and got into the first set without checking under the hatch. We had a major filter failure and dumped the whole 5 liters of oil in the engine bay. Obviously we freaked, shut it straight down and went about the process of cleaning up and checking for damage. To cut a long story abit shorter the simple result was total destruction. A warm up and 3 passes at 34mph and it was finished. I couldn,t believe it. What happened to an alarm of some kind or shutting down to limp mode. I have learnt alot more about its protections after the fact than I knew before, another mistake of ours. I just didn't think it could happen.

Anyway continuing on. We had done some reading previously and thought the single beep from the perfect pass module was actually the alarm self test indicator. We now know it is actually 2 beeps. The check engine light had never lit before either. So we are now thinking, well salt water boat , maybe we had sensor failures and didn't realise due to salt etc. Maybe engine management system has an error. Its all a bit arbitary now anyway.

Well grab a hold of your balls coz things are more expensive over here than for you guys. $13.5 K and 1.5k for fitting later we have a brand new 2008 343 Excalibur. We went for the ex 343 coz the ZR6 was $17.5 K and we couldnt afford it. That was one expensive oil change and it still keeps me up a night sometimes. Gotta let it go and move on.

Now for my real issue. I was really hoping with the entire new engine, when we fired it up, we would now finally get a real self test 2 beeps and check engine light. Nothing

Firstly can someone please tell me. Even if it takes a while to get to the bottom of these indicators, surely the engine will go into limp and reduce RPM if we have some other type of failure. Mind you I guarenttee we will never see 5 litres of oil in the bottom of this boat ever again but I want this thing working right. Surely it will protect itself?

We have used a PCM adaptor plug to connect the existing CC wiring and everything else works fine just a minor alteration with the fuel pump and we are on line. So now I'm thinking the problem must be under the dash. I have pulled it out and can not find any audible device except for the one attached to the perfect pass. Is it housed in the tacho or speedo? Is it maybe not there? The check engine light is obvious to see and the wiring looks fine. I think I will just replace it. Can someone please explain how the alarm system works and where I can find the major elements to it? I am a sparkie and I am pretty determined to nut it out and make sure this never happens again.

Well if your still with me thanks for listening to the sob story. I would really appreciate any help in getting to the bottom of this.

Happy Skiing.

Thanks CoopsinOz

[M3Fan]

RE: Trying to avoid second tragedy.

I don't know about the engine alarm, but I'd bet the old oil flter's gasket was left on the engine when the new filter was screwed on! That's a terrible story.

[AuMDLST]

RE: Trying to avoid second tragedy.

Faria gauges with Perfect Pass? There is just about every measurable reading going through the Faria with digital readout. I would think you could scroll through the selection and see what is going on. I believe the audible alarm comes from one of the gauges. I know when oil pressure was reading low on our 2006 there was no limp mode just beeps and "low pressure" on the Faria.

[richard]

some years ago, I change engine oil and oil filter, later,I found the bilge dirty with oil, I was not pay serious attention on it since no idea how the oil wae therebut keep an eye on it ,later, the bilge beccame moremess with oil, I found the reason when checked to the oil filter, the old gasket still there! ,so no matter how tight the filter I tight,some oil leaking from there,It's a really good experience but I don't want any more,this is easy happen when change oil filter, Pls find the old one out when change oil filter,for cleaning the bottom,I remove the gas tank,use a lot of tissue a lot work. fortunatly,it don't hurt engine.

[WakeSlayer]

I always, ALWAYS look for this. Every car, tractor, boat, that I have ever changed the oil on.
Sorry to hear it happened, good luck with figuring out the sensor and such.

[DanielC]

Sorry to hear about your tragedy. That is unfortunate. Like it has already been said, make sure the oil filter gasket from the old filter is with the old filter, and not stuck on the filter mount.
this is another reason why I use Motorcraft oil filters. I have never seen the gasket stay on the mount with one, many of the other brands leave the gasket behind.
You have to check for oil leaks every time you change the engine oil and filter.

[Mikeski]

After every oil/filter change:
1. Put boat in water or hook to artificial lake (fake-a-lake, flush-pro, etc.)
2. Start boat while watching oil pressure gauge, should build pressure is less than 10 seconds, shut down if it does not
3. Turn motor off, confirm oil level (I always fill mine with 4 and add the 5th after the filter is full because some filters take different amounts)
4. Top off oil with final quart until the dip stick indicates reads full
5. Start motor warm up to operating temperature with cover up watching for leaks
6. Raise motor speed to at least 3k RPM for 20-30 seconds, listen for funny noises or strange smells that might indicate something is not as expected
7. Return to idle, listen for funny noises

Motors will speak to you, listen and learn how to understand what they are saying if you are doing your own service. If you follow this routine you are unlikely to suffer your unpleasant and costly experience again.

So sorry for your financial loss and inconvenience.

[mf01]

I got a used truck last March and did the same thing on my first oil change. I accidentally left the gasket from the oil filter on, but I was watching the oil pressure. I let it run for about 15 seconds and it didn't rise. I shut it off and saw oil all over the garage floor (luckily I used garage floor paint). Fortunately, I didn't run it long enough for any damage. I'd like blame it on the crappy Fram oil filter from the previous oil change, because I have been changing oil in various cars, motorcycles, and boats for 13 years without problems. Now I always run my finger around the flange to check for the old gasket. It hasn't been a problem with the Wix oil filters that I use.

[j2nh]

I think WIX (NAPPA GOLD) is a better engineered filter than a Fram but I did have it happen to me twice last summer with the WIX. After reading about the consequences it is a routine check for me when changing oil.
Always check.

[EarlyRiser]

coop, Pcm Group also owns Crusader engines AND has NON-correct craft dealers. Have you emailed Pcm for any further leads? Try mschneider@pleasurecraft.com or mmckinney@pleasurecraft.com. ER

[DanielC]

Use OEM Filters.

I believe the remote filter mount uses a Motorcraft FL1-A oil filter. They are available at Walmart in the United States, and is a very common oil filter for Fords.
I do not know about its availability outside the United States. It is the oil filter used on a 1970 Mustang with a 302 engine, a 1974 F-250 pickup with a 360 or a 390 engine, a 1996 Aerostar with 4.0 Liter engine, and the GT-40 engine used in our Correct Craft boats. For some odd reason, the Ford filter became the standard oil filter used on remote oil filter mounts.

I believe one of the best oil filters you can use on any engine is the oil filter the engine manufacturer used. Motorcraft oil filters on Fords. AC/Delco oil filters on GM vehicles. Mopar oil filters on Chrysler products. Toyota filters on Toyota filters on Toyotas. Nissan Filters on Nissan/Datsuns.

My reasoning is this. A car company is not going to risk possibly replacing an engine under warranty to save a few cents on an oil filter. In fact, car companies have spent millions of dollars on just the design and development in oil filters. They know what internal components are needed in the oil filter, and the quality required of those components. They are also not trying to make a profit on selling filters.
Lets think about an aftermarket oil filter. They want to make a profit on this filter. They want to build this filter as cheaply as possible, that will get them by. They will not bother to glue or crimp the gasket on the filter. They will put it in pretty boxes, and spend millions on advertising, and buy lots of shelf space in auto parts stores to get you, the gullible public to buy a filter with a rough hand grip coating on the base. If your engine fails due to an oil filter problem, YOU have to prove it was the oil filter that caused the problem.
Buy OEM Filters. Leave the orange junk on the auto parts store shelves.

[DanielC]

Use OEM Filters.

I believe the remote filter mount uses a Motorcraft FL1-A oil filter. They are available at Walmart in the United States, and is a very common oil filter for Fords.
I do not know about its availability outside the United States. It is the oil filter used on a 1970 Mustang with a 302 engine, a 1974 F-250 pickup with a 360 or a 390 engine, a 1996 Aerostar with 4.0 Liter engine, and the GT-40 engine used in our Correct Craft boats. For some odd reason, the Ford filter became the standard oil filter used on remote oil filter mounts.

I believe one of the best oil filters you can use on any engine is the oil filter the engine manufacturer used. Motorcraft oil filters on Fords. AC/Delco oil filters on GM vehicles. Mopar oil filters on Chrysler products. Toyota filters on Toyota filters on Toyotas. Nissan Filters on Nissan/Datsuns.

My reasoning is this. A car company is not going to risk possibly replacing an engine under warranty to save a few cents on an oil filter. In fact, car companies have spent millions of dollars on just the design and development of oil filters. They know what internal components are needed in the oil filter, and the quality required of those components. They are also not trying to make a profit on selling filters.
Lets think about an aftermarket oil filter. They want to make a profit on this filter. They want to build this filter as cheaply as possible, that will get them by. They will not bother to glue or crimp the gasket on the filter. They will put it in pretty boxes, and spend millions on advertising, and buy lots of shelf space in auto parts stores to get you, the gullible public to buy a filter with a rough hand grip coating on the base. If your engine fails due to an oil filter problem, YOU have to prove it was the oil filter that caused the problem.
Buy OEM Filters. Leave the orange junk on the auto parts store shelves.

[M3Fan]

RE: Use OEM Filters.

I've had the oil filter gasket stick on FL1-As and Napa Gold 1515s.