i disagree. you DO need to winterize closed loop or not if thats what your climate requires., especially if not gonna be used
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Closed loop on the ZR does not need to be drained. This also includes the heater.
Open (lake/river) portion DOES need to be drained. Without running out to the garage to check this includes the strainer, impeller, and exhaust manifolds. Nice thing on the ZR is the drain system that grabs fresh water from the low spots and runs them to a common hose next to the hull drain. Undo the nut on the end of the hose and it drains all the fresh water out (still have to do the strainer).2018 200 Team H6
2009 196 Team ZR 409
2005 196 Limited ZR 375
2003 196 Limited Excalibur
1999 196 Masters Edition
1995 ProStar 190 LT1 (Bayliner)
1987 ProStar 190
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winterize
six years of single digit winters for days at a time with no problems just take it for a winter run and put back on the lift. also never have un hook the batteries and never had to replace either, starts first time everytime. It must be a nautique thing. Go for the ZR409 it's great for the piece of mind and no worry.2013 G23 super air
2010 230 super air
2009 220 super air
2008 210 super air
2005 210 super air
2003 calabria pro air
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Originally posted by NautiquehunterThanks for all your posts I'm getting closer to my completed order
and it comes down to this.
1- titon tower and full throttle package or
2-FCT1 tower and 6.0L engine
The cost of the boat with ether options is about the same.
I am leaning toward #2 I just keep thinking what would I change
on my current boat if I could .
The answer is bigger engine even though I don't need
the extra HP most of the time I know I can always
throttle down but once at full throttle that's it.
I have until Jan 17th [Chicago Boat Show] to decide.2003 SANTE
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