01 SAN Ballast Install

[seth]

I finished my ballast install two weeks ago and took it out last weekend to test it out. Here is what I used:

3 jabsco reversible pumps
2 fly high 750's
custom fly high ski locker sac 12Hx27Wx78L
fly high integrated bow sac
second battery
battery separator
12 slot fuse panel
11"x29.75" 1/8" thick 5052 aluminum panel to mount pumps
Many Many more parts, feel free to ask if any questions

[bchesley]

RE: 01 SAN Ballast Install

I like it. Are you just not going to have a rear pylon. Did you time it to see how long it took to fill them up?

Brad

[bchesley]

RE: 01 SAN Ballast Install

I was just looking at the thru hulls and did not see any sealant. Did you use any on the hull connection? If not I highly recommend it. I used 5200 below the water line on all thru-hulls. I put it on both surfaces(flange and Nut) inside and out.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: 01 SAN Ballast Install

the 750's take 7-8 minutes to fill. That is what I have in mine. not sure about the bow or belly tanks, I do not have them plumbed in on mine.
Looks great, but have the same questions as Brad about the pylon, and the sealant. That center pump is going to make it hard to get the pylon back in...

[MNSuperAir]

RE: 01 SAN Ballast Install

How about a picture from below of the strainer

[Red57Bird]

Just a bit of advice, I'd reconsider how you place the pumps. Keep in mind that you will have to periodically replace the impellers so you want them as easily accessible as can be. Installing them upside down, or with the pumps tucked under something else, will make it time consuming to work on them. The way they install them on the 2008 and newer boats is nice - personally, I'd put them in the port rear locker either on the side or back by the transom.

[MNSuperAir]

Anyone have a pic of the '08 pump instalation?

[WakeSlayer]

I have mine on an angled bracket bolted on my port stringer, forward of the motor. Access to the impellers is generous, and it hangs the pumps inwards so it does not impede by ballast bags at all. I will see if I can find the drawing of it. Photos are in the thread linked below.

http://www.planetnautique.com/index....hlight=ballast

[bchesley]

The pumps must be installed upside down to keep water out of the pump motor. The pumps are ignition protected not water proof. If you have the room putting them on their side will work. In that configuration it will not be hard to change them. I made a practice run on mine to see.

[WakeSlayer]

The pumps must be installed upside down to keep water out of the pump motor.

??? No issues in two seasons.

[WakeSlayer]

The Jabsco Water Puppy pump is the standard in compact, low voltage DC, self-priming, motor driven pumps. Since the Water Puppy is self-priming, it can be located above the fluid source and installed in a convenient location, mounted in any position. Able to lift water up to 4 feet, the flexible impeller can pass small solids without damaging the pump, and it delivers up to 9 GPM at open flow. It is equipped with a improved high torque motor and a new pressure cast bronze body featuring a reusable O-ring type end cover seal. Ideal for bilge pumping, bait tank circulation, livewell aeration, and washdowns.


from this link at PUMPBIZ:

http://www.pumpbiz.com/products/inde...roduct_id=9493

[seth]

Unfortunately the ski pylon mounting system is very limiting for mounting in the motor box. I really wanted them completely hidden so I had to remove the pylon. It wasnt a big deal for me but my girlfriend skis, and she wasnt to happy about it. She is happy that I am not filling sacs for a half hour though! The through hulls were already there. One is the 3/4" scoop from the original ballast system and the other is a 1 1/4" non scoop from a Hippopotomus ballast system that used to be in the boat. Hippo was a ballast company that used to do custom systems out of Arizona. They are both sealed, the 3/4 is sealed in the hull and I tried to take the 1 1/4 out to reseal it and could not even get it off. The only thing that was wrong with it was that because the two front bags were on the same pump, when the bow sac emptied, the pump would not stay primed to empty the locker sac. I am installing a shut off valve between each bag and the pump to fix that.

[seth]

I will time it next time out, but it took about the same amount of time for the whole thing, maybe two minutes more for the front bags. Ill get some pictures today of the bottom side. To cover the pylon hole im going to get a thin piece of aluminum and use the existing ring that was already there for the pylon.

[Red57Bird]

I don't have a pic of the '08 install, but if memory serves me right, they are mounted on a plate across the transom, with the brass plate facing the bow (installed sideways). Makes them very easy to work on - in fact I helped a friend with a 210 replace the impellers this past season.

Seth - if you mount them by the ski pylon and tucked back up under the back seat brace, I think you will end up regretting it. Besides having to completely remove the pumps for impeller replacement, you may run into cooling issues as well. Attached is a clip from the installation instructions - good ventilation helps cool the pump and prolong the motor life.

[aussie_stu]

The only thing that was wrong with it was that because the two front bags were on the same pump, when the bow sac emptied, the pump would not stay primed to empty the locker sac. I am installing a shut off valve between each bag and the pump to fix that.

I'ts prob not the pump losing prime, but more so air being sucked in through the empty fatty's vent line.If you put a check/one way valve in the vent line, it'll stop the pump sucking air back into the system through the empty sack