What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repair?

[Chexi]

Okay, I have another one. I am going to be ordering a new set of skins from Christine's shortly for my 99 Air and replacing my entire vinyl interior. After I unbolted the interior today I found that some of the hard white backing material (looks like plastic) is cracked. For the most part these cracks do not seem to be a big deal. However, on the starboard side along the gunnel, the idiot who had the boat before me had swapped out the factory speakers and put in heavy pioneer car speakers. He only screwed them in with 1 - 2 screws on the bottom, which put a lot of weight on the (plastic) and broke it where the observer seat speaker would be. I will need to repair at least this one spot because the (plastic) is broken where I will need to screw in new speakers. If I can figure out how to fix this, I will probably fix the other cracked areas as well.

Any ideas on what to use and techniques? The broken pieces are there, so I might be able to use some epoxy. I could probably glass/resin a patch that would adhere to the cracked piece and the solid piece next to it (at least on the lower cracked piece) as that part is below the hull gunnel and does not need to mount flush.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

Try West Systems Epoxy 105/205. Incredible stuff. I have recently become thier biggest fan,

[Chexi]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

Wakeslayer, I have recently become YOUR biggest fan. You have really helped me out on a lot of my questions.

[Chexi]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

I went to West Marine today and they said that the 105/205 epoxy will not stick to plastic. I'm not sure, but that backing looks like plastic to me. They recommended a new product called G/Flex 650 epoxy, which is supposed to adhere well to plastics, and most other materials. Here is what the West Marine Website says about the product:



G/flex 650 is a new epoxy introduced by WEST SYSTEM in mid-June 2007. A toughened, versatile, liquid epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of fiberglass, ceramics, metals, plastics, damp and difficult-to-bond woods. G/flex offers these important features:

Toughness and Flexibility G/flex has been toughened. This gives G/flex the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. G/flex is resilient and impact resistant. With a modulus of elasticity of 150,000 psi (WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin/205 Hardener has a modulus of elasticity of 450,000 psi), G/flex is more flexible and can deflect further than WEST SYSTEM 105/205, while being much stiffer than typical adhesive sealants.

Bonds to wet and damp surfaces G/flex has the ability to glue damp woods. It can be used on wet surfaces, even underwater when applied with specific techniques.

Excellent adhesion to hard-to-bond woods G/flex adheres tenaciously to difficult-to-glue hardwoods, both tropical and domestic varieties. This is important since many of the exotic and tropical species now being used to replace traditional woods present bonding challenges.

Bonds well to a variety of materials G/flex is ideal for bonding a variety of materials, including dissimilar ones. G/flex has a superior grip so that it can be used to bond to metals, plastics, glass, masonry, and fiberglass. G/flex is ideal for repairs to aluminum boats and polyethylene and ABS canoes and kayaks. It can also be used to wet out and bond fiberglass tapes and fabrics.

Ease of use G/flex is a simple two-part epoxy system. Resin and hardener are mixed in a 1:1 mix ratio by volume. For added convenience, a pre-thickened version, G/flex 655 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive, is also available. G/flex provides a relatively long open working time of 45 minutes. It cures in 7-10 hours and can be used in cool temperatures. Because it is simple to mix and use, G/flex is an excellent starting point for customers new to epoxy use.

Versatility G/flex can be modified with WEST SYSTEM fillers and additives if you need to meet particular bonding needs. Adding G/flex to other WEST SYSTEM epoxies can improve their toughness and flexibility.

i think I'll give it a try. I'll probably put a bead on the edges of the broken parts and put them back into place (after removing the vinyl and foam of course). Then, after curing, I'll probably put a glob across the front and back of the broken points. I might throw a strip of fiberglass in there for good measure. I will report back on my success or failure, as the case may be (and take and post pictures).

[WakeSlayer]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

Admittedly, I have not tried West on plastic. I assume it would pop off smooth plastic, but I was assuming it would be roughed up first. I woulde be interested to hear what comes of the G/Flex. Please post when you are done.
I am on my 4th 1.2 gallon set of West fixing my wife's PonyBoat. The greatest stuff. Ever.

[Mikeski]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

Chexi,

You may want to build a backing ring and sandwich your existing panel between the speaker and the ring. Using the Gflex to bond the ring to the stock panel may be a good idea?

good luck.

[Chexi]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

Thanks Mikeski. I will do that. I'll have to find something about the right size, preferably round with at least the right size diameter inside cutout, relatively thin, and strong. It will be stronger than the original... like the 6 Million Dollar Man!

[Nautibouys]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

On mine the factory used a piece of 6" pvc pipe cut down to about a 3/8". I took it apart so fast I am now at a loss for where that piece of PVC goes, but its either behind the plastic speaker surround or between that and the plastic combing pad. I left it off when I just changed out the speakers along with the plastic speaker surround from the factory and mounted the speaker directly to the combing pad. Since the DB651's are fairly heavy I was concerned the thin plastic of that pad would crack out, and it sounds from your scenario that it did for someone else. Have the rethink the engineering on how to mount mine. Ps. be very careful when pulling the combing pads off, if the bolts don't line up correctly with the holes when pulling out the threads will hang up. I cracked the plastic where one of the bolts are seated. Kind of cheap plastic junk in my opinion.

[Chexi]

RE: What is the backing that holds the vinyl and how 2 repai

Yes, I cracked a piece like that as well on the bow through-way. I have been told elsewhere that one can make a bridge from thin plastic and patch using pvc adhesive. That is certainly cheaper than the epoxy. I plan on getting some of the pieces on Sunday and will see what works.

As far as your scenario Nautibouys, you will probably be okay if you mount carefully and use all 4 mounting screws. The previous owner of my boat only mounted the speakers with 1 or 2 of the bottom screws, which if you think about it, were the worst possible ones to pick. All the weight was applied to those 1 or 2 screws and the speaker would want to tilt outward away from the combing pad. That put a bending pressure on the combing pad. If he had used the top 2 screws, the speaker would have wanted to tilt in toward the combing pad and probably would have been fine. But I'm sure he saved himself about 5 minutes by doing it the idiotic way he did.

That said, reinforcing before you have a problem is not a bad idea. Since you have no broken pieces, you could probably use the G/flex I mentioned above with some fiberglass cloth. that should make it quite strong.

[DavidF]

You need to use an acrylic adhesive such as: 3M Scotch Weld DP-8005.

http://www.thegluedepot.com/ProductI...5datasheet.pdf