Ballast Tank Piggyback

[jaybird]

I would like input from anyone that has installed a piggyback tank to a factory ballast system. I have been going back and forth with this in my head.

My 03 air 226 has 900 lbs factory ballast; I’m considering adding a piggyback fat sac for surfing goofy. I would remove the vent from the factory hard tank and connect it to the bottom fill of the fat sac then vent the fat sac with the existing vent line. Add a tee into the drain of the hard tank with the extra fat sac fitting to aid in draining.

I have duel centrifugal pumps fill/drain with helm controlled valves. I update to the new valves and everything works fine thus I plan to stay with what I have, not interested in a new system that requires ballast puppy’s, what I have works great and I am just looking for an easy 300 lbs on top of my starboard side without more wiring and more thru hulls while having it integrated and avoiding a portable pump/drain that I must plug in.

Here are a few issues.

If the fat sac is above the boats thru hull vent or drain it will spill out as indicated in the drawing. I may be able to get around this if I loop the drain and vent up higher but then it may siphon unless I install a cheap vacuum breaker at the top of my loop. I really do not want to add more vents and drains above the gunwale.

Any experienced input would be appreciated.

[gride300]

RE: Ballast Tank Piggyback

there's a thread on here somewhere about this. i plumbed in wedge sacs. it's super easy. make a U shape for the new vent hose and you may have to blow it out before draining most the time, but works like a charm.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Ballast Tank Piggyback

Will your stock pumps have enough pressure to fill the above tank bag? i am about to install a system in a 05 SV211, we are removing the hard tanks and stock pumps. Just going with ballast puppies and big bags.

[jaybird]

Stock Pumps

Wakeslayer,

Good point! And please be the devil’s advocate.

I was wondering if anyone would consider the pressure. It crossed my mind and I just don’t know how slow it may be. Based on the head pressure ratings of the centrifugal pumps, yes it will work, but the additional head pressure will defiantly reduce the flow. If you know a little about pumps then you know you can actually connect a booster pump, (pumps in series). My boat is prewired for the shower pump thus I could just plug another centrifugal in series with the primary fill pump and boost pressure 50-75% thus speed up filling. I thought I may try it without the booster and add if filling was painfully slow. It’s only like $35.00 for the extra pump and the wiring and switch are already in place.

If things don’t work out I can always upgrade later. I’m sure the Ballast Puppy’s are great, I’m not putting them down; this is just a cheap easy way to integrate without any major work, no thru hulls, no wiring, no switches, no relays or expensive pumps and nothing lost. I may even learn something to share.

[jaybird]

RE: Stock Pumps

Gride300,

If you find that thread send me the link.

Thanks,
Jay Bird

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Stock Pumps

I just think you would be happier. You end up with more storage when not in use, and have a super fast system when in use, etc.
I know there is a system designed to fit on top of the 08 system, but there again, it uses new pumps that have more pressure. Not knockin, just sayin. Good luck whichever way you go.

[jaybird]

RE: Stock Pumps

Wakeslayer,

Thanks for the info, and yes maybe later down the road. For now just trying to work with the stock electrical. I just finished a complete audio upgrade, seakers, subs, amps, head unit, duel battery's charging relay thus haveing some Wiring Burnout Yellow_Flash_Colorz: No pun intended.

[jaybird]

RE: Stock Pumps

Wakeslayer or anyone,

I do have a question about the Ballast Puppy’s that I may need later down the road.

Does anyone know the amps draw of the ballast puppy and does anyone know the amp draw of the shower pumps that were installed before the carbon monoxide panic issue killed them?

I know a reversal must take place to drain and fill with the puppy, but I can get around that, I was just curious if a ballast puppy was available that pulls the equivalent or lower amps to the shower pumps that the prewired shower circuit is designed for, this would mean you could avoid using relays and utilize the existing button and wiring with some minor tricks for reversing.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Stock Pumps

I am not sure on the shower pump. Mine is buttoned up for the winter or i could tell you. Below is the link to PumpBiz and has all the spec info you need for the ballast puppies.

http://www.pumpbiz.com/products/inde...roduct_id=9493

[core-rider]

This post details what I did on my '03 210. It's very similar to what you want. Has worked like a charm for 5 seasons now.

http://planetnautique.com/index.php?...amp;highlight=

Not to highjack your thread Jaybird, but are you going to the boatshow in Birmingham this weekend? If so look for me on Sat. & Sun. in the Wakefactoy booth. We will be in the Rambo Marine booth area.

[MUSHEZ]

We have put in extra sacks in our SANTE 220 - running the fly high system:

http://www.fatsac.com/FlyHigh/FlyHighSacs.html#superair

Not that I think it is a fly high problem, but should be with anyone doing it, that we have found our senders are bending, mainly because they were too long to start with, and believe they have bent when the sacks are vacuum empty and now allowing air to vent through them to the factory tank.

Senders when bent, tell you that the tank is full - when it isn't and have to way to gauge how full it is.

Also found that when the sacks vacuum empty, it does not allow the factory tanks no empty fully.

My experience is make sure there is air flowing through the sack when emptying them at all times, so you don't bend your senders, as well as not to put more pressure on the pumps.