'83 SN 2001 Ballast Install

[kylem03]

Hey everyone, sorry upfront about the repetitiveness regarding ballast install threads but I want to plumb my 2-350# side sacks and my 600# rear to an auto-system similar to what some others have done. I am then planning on building carpeted boxes that double for seating platforms to hide everything and to be able to move around fairly easily.

My issue comes when trying to decide what to use for pumps. I am between simer bw8512's mounted somewhere safe, or a bunch of tsunamis; however, the more pumps I use, the more intricate/complicated the system will be (i.e. check valves, vent lines, 2 pumps per bag, multiple intakes given the capacity of the pumps, etc) I want to put in one intake, run all 3 pumps off of it, and be able to do this install cleanly. I don't have a second battery, but maybe should, considering I am already running 2 amps for a sub and tower speakers off the original starting battery.

Could you please summarize your expieriences with the two different setups I've outlined, power/amperage considerations, manifold requirements for running pumps, fill times, pickup options (size, scoop vs mushroom), etc? I was thinking that the only soft lines I'd run would be from underneath the gunnels to the bags, then everything else would be hard pvc to the pump fittings. This would make things very easy/clean to route. I also don't want to spend $150 per pump, so ballast puppy's are out of the question. Thanks in advance!

Kyle

[rbalan]

RE:

I cant comment on the simers, never used them, but amperage wise you'll be fine with aerators running 3 at a time although I would not recomend a lot of filling/draining with the motor off. As with many DD boats, you are really going to have to play around finding a layout for a 3 pump system (with that will self prime well. You could really make things easier by going to a 1 or 2 pump system both with room and simplicity. Before I keep going, A. how important is fill/empty times? When I had my 89, I could fill 2 550 lb sacs with a single 1100 gph from livebaitlarry in 12 min. using a 3/4" mushroom intake. B. Are you going to be able to lift the engine cover with your rear sac back there? If you cant, you are going to either need to use a remote valve or stick with simers. C. How many ports do your sacs have? Venting can be quite a pain with only 2 ports especially if they are located on the same side. D. Do you plan on surfing?

[kylem03]

Thanks for your comments. To answer your questions:

Fill times: I would like to be able to fill the entire system in 5-10 minutes. Part of my reason for this is that my fiance is a skiier, so 1200# of ballast doesn't bode too well for her and it'd be nice to have the option of filling/draining while someone is getting ready.

One or two pump system: I guess I could conside a two pump system but then I lose fill/empty times with simers or I have to "T" off of one of the pumps for the two side sacs and lose fill times there. I thought it'd be just as easy to designate 1 pump per bag.

Lifting the engine cover: As it stands, I can only now lift my engine cover about 1/2 way and if I build the boxes/enclosures I want to, I'll have even less access from the side. With that in mind I want it to be all automated so no remote valves. Only one ball valve shut-off between the raw water intake and the pumps. If I go with aerator pumps, then that means check valves.

Ports on the sacks: My side sacks have two on the top (one on each end) and 1 drain on one end at the bottom. My rear sack only has 2 openings. I don't understand how this is an issue for venting as long as they are pointed up, right?

I do not plan on surfing.

So at this point, yes, space is an issue. but it seems with self-priming pumps, I could find a layout that works fairly easily. However, if I use aerator pumps, they need to stay below the waterline and space gets tight. Also the fact that I should really be able to reach the emergency ball valve just in case.

So much to consider!!!

Kyle

[kylem03]

Ok, attached is a pdf of what I am thinking of doing. Let me know what you think.

[rbalan]

First off, A SKIER! What were you thinking? JK, My wife boards when she isn't pregnant.

2 1100 GPH aerators would easily meet fill times. BTW, I'm not trying to convince you to not use simmers. They may work better with the rear sac, trust me, "burping" the sac without a vent will be an issue. Air will get in there, probably less so with the simmers though. I also don't think you need check or remote valves or with simmers.

Will you have access to the ball valve with the sacs full? Thats pretty important for safety reasons. It does not look like it in your diagram. My through hull/ball valve was at the front of the engine for easy access. I have seen someone that had 3 thruhull/valve/700gph pumps located like this with 3/4" lines.

I think with your rear sack I would lean to the simer pumps. You may lose a little bit of time but that could simplify your system and give you more pump mounting options. The main thing I would do first is measure pump dimensions with fittings attached, and see that they will all fit. A 3 pump aerator/manifold can get up to 17"x10"x5" or larger.

You are right, there is lots to think about and I could go on and on. For now, my best advice to you is to change the rear sac to one that is ventable. If you check out some of the ballast systems on SANs, you'll see that most of them have vent lines even with simer pumps. Keep us posted on your thoughts and questions.

[kylem03]

rbalan,

Thanks for the input. I did some measuring today what I am going to do is to mount my new Thru-hull fitting directly adjacent to the existing raw water intake. I will face it in the opposite direction though (towards the stern) so I have access to the ball valve through the hatch in the floor used to access the drive shaft packing. I will then come up through the floor with a 1.5" inside diameter hose to a manifold that splits to 3 - 5/8" hoses each going to a simer pump. I do have burping capabilities with the rear sack: It has 2 holes in the top for fill/drain.

About the check valves, I guess I don't really need to incorporate them except in the bilge line. If I do, there'll always be standing water just on the other side of it.

I'll take pics when I start my install.

Thanks!