1999 Super Sport Rear Hatch Lift/Motor/Actuator

[skiking]

My rear hatch actuator has suddenly stopped going down. The hatch goes up fine, but when I switch it to the down position I just hear a sort of electric buzz from the actuator motor. So it doesn't sound like a relay issue. More of a motor issue. Guess 10 years is asking a lot.

I have read through past posts and could not find a similar situation.

I called my dealer and they want $1300 for a new lift!!! So I am hoping it is something that can be fixed. Like replacing just the actuator motor or gear. Open to suggestions for tracking the issue down.

Also, seen it asked before. But, has anyone upgraded to a 2001 3 piece back deck?

Thanks!

[AuMDLST]

RE: 1999 Super Sport Rear Hatch Lift/Motor/Actuator

Is there any indication of manufacturer or part number? I would imagine that CC is purchasing the item from a supplier which you may be able to track down and get outside of the dealer.

[NautiqueJeff]

RE: 1999 Super Sport Rear Hatch Lift/Motor/Actuator

If nothing else, use one of our site sponsor dealers and take advantage of the 10% off deal. Both White Lake and N3 Boatworks are participating.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: 1999 Super Sport Rear Hatch Lift/Motor/Actuator

I thought I had a failed actuator last year that turned out to just be a fuse. We referred to that repair as the $0.12 solution to the $120 solution to the $1200 problem.

the $120 solution to the $1200 problem:

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...;products_id=8

You need to measure the stroke and get the correct attachment point style.


Incidentally, the actuator in my 92 BFN Vdrive failed completely, and I just simply never replaced it. I would lift and drop the cover manually. Correct Craft is just plain stealing from you at $1300.

[skiking]

Here is a picture of the actuator motor. Looks like a Dana/Borg/Warner product. States that it is a DM12 Series actuator.

Jeff, always good to know we have the discounts when we need them! But, for $1300. I might just pay one of the neighbors kids to live in the engine compartment and raise the hatch every time I switch on a signal light. Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

[skiking]

Actuator.

[polkaking27]

have you ever considered just putting a regular gas strut on there. That way you wouldn't have to rely on battery power to get to your engine (and battery for that matter)

That would be the cheapest thing I can think of, next to a fuse

[skiking]

WakeSlayer,

That is a great alternative!

[skiking]

Polkaking27,

I would really like to upgrade to the 2001 setup. The big hatch is a pain when you have a lot of people/noise. Getting people to move to get buoys, jackets, or anything else in the engine compartment is a pain. Plus, the engine is exposed every time you lift the hatch. And, yes, before someone says it, I shut off the engine. Just don't like the whole one solid back hatch thing in general.

But, I love my boat and can't seem to part with it for a newer model/cost. And my 1999 has been very good to me!

[WakeSlayer]

I think you would spend a bunch of dough and have a fair amount of work to convert your hatch to a 3way. Not sure it is worth it. At that point you would just use gas shocks, though.
Has anyone done a conversion?

[Sbt3]

I've got one out of a 97 supersport which should be the same that I'd sell you. I took mine out because it takes up valuable ballast room I kept it incase I ever sell the boat but I don't see that happening anytime soon. I'll pm you with my email and we can figure out details if you want.

[DavidF]

Ok, I had to replace the switch for the actuator on my '99 NSS when I bought it last year. So, my thinking is that maybe the switch is shorting out in the "close" position only. You know, maybe energizing "close" and "open" signals at the same time. I can see how this would make the motor buzz. I cannot see how the actuator would fail in only one direction.

The switch is hard to find (DPDT toggle). I got mine at Grainger (1XWT8). Problem is the Grainger sourced switch had a slightly shorter neck, so I had to carve out a bit of the back of the gunnel so I could get the nut in place. The switch was $12.01. My local CC dealer was stumped on the switch, or maybe I was just in a hurry to get it.

Also, the factory switch has 6 spade terminals and 6 wires. Most of the DPDT toggles you might find have 5.

FWIW: It appears that my bro-in-law's MC 230 has the same actuator. Maybe MC sells it cheaper.

[WakeSlayer]

I cannot see how the actuator would fail in only one direction.

Good point, David !! The one in my BFN just failed altogether.

This could be the $12 solution to the $1200 problem.

[skiking]

A friend of mine has a large motor pool at his company that supports heavy equipment. They know actuators inside and out. I am having them test it. If it is good I will work my way back through the relays and switch. I'll keep you posted.

[DavidF]

No relays, just a switch.