Applying Large Hull Decals

[CraigH]

I did a search and didnt find much as it may be a relatively simple task. I have new AIR decals (the old ones have some nicks) for the side of my boat and am looking for any tips to get them on, aligned, straight, etc. I just never seem to be able to get the smaller decals such as registration numbers the way I want them and obviously these are much more important.

I will use soapy water such that I can maneuver them a bit once they are on. The other thing I plan on doing is to tape around the existing decals and mark several reference points before taking the old ones off.

Any tips from those that have done this before are appreciated. Thanks

[east tx skier]

I watched a true decal master do the side decals on my 98 SN. You are on the right track taping around the old stuff. I was told to do where the lettering started and underneath. Make sure the surface is clean and that the wax is removed. If you want to do some buffing, now is the time. I had some ghosting, which helped with alignment. We ended up not buffing to remove it because I still had some orange peel in my gel in those spots. Too purdy to mess with was the conclusion.

What he did was different than what I'd seen. No soap and water. He taped the decal at the top and lined it up. Then, he cut vertically in between each letter so that they were basically separate decals. Then he removed the backing tape and laid them down. I don't even remember if he used a spatula to smooth, but I would guess yes. The job turned out fantastic.

The air decal will be a bit trickier and with something that large, I'd guess soap and water would be pretty key. For what it's worth, here are my new decals and pin striping at prep and after the fact.

[AuMDLST]

I replaced an 06 graphic and was told to only use a spray bottle with water (no soap) - I marked the old decal position with tape and due to the size it took two people. Boat was cleaned and sprayed with water - peeled a section out of center backing and lightly positioned the decal then with one person holding graphic at center I peeled backing from center to one end from behind decal - repeat for other end of decal then use a squegee (sp) to smooth out - working from center. Difficult part is the hull is curved bow to stern and top to bottom - decal wants to get folds.

[sjames]

Water, soapy water?

I am putting my new griffin decals on an 06 SANTE. Lot's of pieces!!! and bubbles!!! can I use water or soapy water and not damage the adhesive?

[KenG]

I am putting my new griffin decals on an 06 SANTE. Lot's of pieces!!! and bubbles!!! can I use water or soapy water and not damage the adhesive?

We apply dry, but if you use a solution it should only be a couple of drops of soap(Dreft) in a 12 oz sprayer. If you do it dry small bubbles look bad at first but will disapear over time.

For wet applications spray the boat and the graphic and rub the adhesive after spraying to spred the liquid over the entire decal before applying.

[swc5150]

As a former sign company owner, my advice would be to use what's called the "hinged" method. I would have to write a book to explain this, so it may be easier just too google it for an instruction video. Also, do a wet application, other wise you could have a mess on your hands. Not only does it allow the removal of air bubbles, but if you make a mistake, the graphic can still be lifted from the hull. My "magic" solution was a squirt of lemon fresh joy to 3/4 water in a std size spray bottle. Believe it or not, lemon joy works the best - and I've tried them all! Let the boat sit for 24 hours before taking it on the water or towing it.

[sjames]

thanks I'll try it out

[sjames]

As a former sign company owner, my advice would be to use what's called the "hinged" method. I would have to write a book to explain this, so it may be easier just too google it for an instruction video. Also, do a wet application, other wise you could have a mess on your hands. Not only does it allow the removal of air bubbles, but if you make a mistake, the graphic can still be lifted from the hull. My "magic" solution was a squirt of lemon fresh joy to 3/4 water in a std size spray bottle. Believe it or not, lemon joy works the best - and I've tried them all! Let the boat sit for 24 hours before taking it on the water or towing it.

Forgot to ask after you apply the soapy water how long do you let it set before you remove the cover sticker? The clear one? I would assume it needs to dry in order to get the main sticker to stick..... if that makes sense?

[steve-o]

You can remove the backer just after squeegeeing out most of the liquid. You will need to do this as you will need to squeegee directly on the sticker in some spots.

When you peel the sticker, I used to find it best to pull it close to the surface as possible, making so it peels with the least amount of lifting force on the vinyl. The vinyl sticker is very subjective to moving and/or lifting when applying wet.

[swc5150]

Steve-O is correct. You can remove the transfer tape immediately after sqeeging out all of the liquid, just be careful not to lift the graphic from the hull. Nautique graphics are printed on a high-performance, cast vinyl, so they cooperate pretty well during application. One more thing, make sure the hull is warm when applying, due to vinyl will not adhere in temps under 45 degrees.

[toddrswenson]

I need to redo the pinstripe on my 97 Ski. How on earth do you get it straight?

[swc5150]

I'd work with a painter or graphics shop for pinning - it's a bear if you're not experienced!

[sjames]

I am putting my new griffin decals on an 06 SANTE. Lot's of pieces!!! and bubbles!!! can I use water or soapy water and not damage the adhesive?

Done!!