GT-40 Oil Change Procedures

[BufordSki]

I have a 02 SN with the GT-40 motor. I'm looking to do a my first oil change myself over the weekend. Has anyone ever seen a posting with step by step instructions on changing the oil in a GT-40? What brand oil and filter is everyone using? I'm just trying to save myself some money an learn something as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[NCH2oSki]

I use motorcraft FL1 filter. It is a direct replacment for my 99 ski with the gt-40. THe oil you use is up to you, PCM suggests straight 40wt. I have been using deisel 15-40 in mine, and changing it every 50 hours.

A tip for removing the oil filter is to put a large ziplock bag around it after you have it loose, then remove it with the bag covering the filter, this should minimize the oil mess.

Make sure the oil is warm/hot, or it will take all weekend to drain out of the hose.

[BufordSki]

Thanks NCH2oSki! The current oil filter is a PZ-1 placed on there by CC service. After reading reviews, I don't know if I want to go that route again. The guy's with CC service said something about a double gasket within the oil filter. Do you know anything about that?

[TwinTip]

I think what the mechanic is talking about with "a double gasket within the oil filter" is the following. The oil filter has a round gasket at the top. When the oil filter is removed, this gasket should come off with the filter, however, sometimes it does not and it stays attached to the engine. One has to double check this and make sure that the gasket is still on the oil filter (or in ones hands as long as it does not stay attached to the engine).

Installing a new filter (which should come with the gasket attached) with a gasket attached to the engine will eventually cause spill of all of the oil in the engine. One might not see it when the oil change has been completed but once the engine and oil warm up it will eventually leak.

When installing a new oil filter, it is always a good idea to rub some new oil on the gasket of the new oil filter. This will prevent it from adhering to the engine and will also allow the gasket to "slide" smoothly when tightening the new filter. Remember to hand tighten the oil filter. Once the gasket of the new oil filter comes in contact with the engine, about a 3/4 turn will do.

My rule of thumb when changing oil is to always double check that the gasket is still on the oil filter that I will discard.

[nms1991]

You could also use the old filter to coat the other gasket by keeping the old filter upright to keep the oil in the filter and set the new filter on the old filter gasket to gasket thus doing both coating and checking for the old gasket. I always use a cut out bottom of a gallon milk jug ang a old towel in the bilge to catch the oil out of the filter that drains when you remove the filter. I like to use a good name brand oil and filter (except the fram filters with the grip material because the person before you always over tightens the filter and you have to cut it off to remove it).

[ag4ever]

I would recomend pumping the oil out, as it took over an hour for mine to drain through the hose that goes through the bilge plug. If I had a pump connected to the end of the hose I could have sucked it throught that same hose in less than a minute.

Also the fram filters are the worse ones with a paper pypass valve, and not so good media. The purolators and mobile ones are the top of class, and the motorcraft filters are made my purolator.

I generally use the FL-1A motorcraft because it is a good filter and wallmarts sells them relativly cheap.

I also don't use penzoil as I feel they have too many detergents in their oil, and it attacks the seals too much.

[dirtweed]

I've had the easiest/cleanest oil changes by letting the oil drain out the hose over the course of a day or two (during the week mostly). Once the oil is drained, take the oil filter off. Typically, it is no mess at all after the boat has been sitting for a while, but the bag trick is always a good idea.

I can get the oil changed in the boat with about 10 minutes of actual work. Once you do it a time or two, its a piece of cake.

V-drive is a whole other story if you want to do it right (cleaning the filter screen when you change the oil).

[slob02]

NCH2oSki............I like the zip lock bag idea. I usually try to change mine with a warm engine. The oil comes out much faster than when it is cold.
Also, when putting the drain hose back, make sure it is clear of the belts.

[NCH2oSki]

Good point about checking clearance with the belts and pulleys.