Impeller change on a 2001 SAN GT-40... How to w/ pictures

[liquid-diet]

I found some threads on here on how to replace the impeller, but non with pictures. I replace ours last weekend and took some pictures of the procedure.

1) Remove (2) 1/2" bolts connected to mounting bracket

[liquid-diet]

2) Mark top of pump assembly so that when you re-install it its positioned correctly
3) Push assembly towards engine and remove belt
4) Loosen hose clamps on intake and exhaust ports on pump
5) Remove pump assembly from engine bay

[liquid-diet]

6) Unscrew (3) 7/16" hex bolts and separate the housing.

[liquid-diet]

7) Remove old impeller and gasket

[liquid-diet]

8) Clean up housing surfaces, i used a little fine sand paper too to get everything off.
9) install new gasket and impeller. Spin impeller clockwise into housing.
10) Reassemble pump with the (3) 7/16" hex bolts

[liquid-diet]

Re-install pump
11) Noting mark made ftop of assembly reconnnct supply and exhaust lines and tighten hose clamps
12) Place belt back on pulley, making sure it lines up on all three pulleys properly
13) Screw 1/2" hex bolts in hand tight. Pull pump away from engine and tighten bolts so belt it tight and deflects only 1/4"

[liquid-diet]

People talk about not removing the pump/pulley, but was so easy to remove the entire assemble, disassemble, clean, reassemble, and put back in, that i dont know why you would try to work in the engine bay. It is a fairly straightforward and easy procedure that can be done in 20 min.

[NCH2oSki]

I'm one of the guys that do not remove the pump, and can change the impellor in 20 minutes also. Either way its worth it for a new impellor every season in my opinon.

[jchamlin]

Thanks for the pictures and instructions. I've been wanting to do this but have not wanted to venture into unknown territory.

Per your last point, it looks like you could leave the pulley in place and just remove the (3) 7/16" bolts...if you had the room. I have a direct drive so that may be a little easier to work with.

[liquid-diet]

With a direct drive i would leave it in place probably, but with V-drive it was just too cramped and hard to see. You do have to remove the (2) 1/2" bolt because the engine bracket covers over some of the (3) 7/16" ones.

[vr6mole]

Also, not to confuse people....all of the paper gaskets in the kit were NOT used. Only the O-ring was needed.

[DavidF]

Also, not to confuse people....all of the paper gaskets in the kit were NOT used. Only the O-ring was needed.

I do not think this statement is correct. The pulley (bearing) side of the brass plate gets the "paper" gasket. The pump body (impellar) side gets the o-ring.

[ccrider89]

I do not think this statement is correct. The pulley (bearing) side of the brass plate gets the "paper" gasket. The pump body (impellar) side gets the o-ring.

Wouldn't that put the paper gasket against the rubber O ring?

The impeller kit I use only has the O ring

[AirTool]

p.s. the bolt sizes are not 7/16" and 1/2". The hex heads may be but the correct bolt size should be 1/4" and 5/16" respectively.

Nice thread. I'll post the same for the 330 in a week or so.

AirTool

[DavidF]

I do not think this statement is correct. The pulley (bearing) side of the brass plate gets the "paper" gasket. The pump body (impellar) side gets the o-ring.

Wouldn't that put the paper gasket against the rubber O ring?

The impeller kit I use only has the O ring

No, the brass plate is sandwiched between the two pump halves. Gasket on one side, o-ring on the other.