rear hatch project

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  • Mr.O
    • Jun 2008
    • 34



    rear hatch project

    So I'm getting geared up to run some ballast in my '96 SS this year. Theres a bunch of little things that need to be taken care of that I hope I can get some answers to. First off, I've got the fly-hi 400's for the back. Would I be correct in assuming that the hydraulic lift is going to be in the way? I'd like to get rid of it and put some gas shocks in, but thats where the can of worms starts. Would these shocks be mounted near the top of the engine bay dividers? I had this idea that the shocks would be around 24" in length, so in that case, thats where they would have to go.
    The next problem I have is the actual engine bay dividers themselves.....




    The ones on the bottom are only about 6" in height, and obviously won't prevent the sacs from touching the manifolds. The sacs should have enough clearance to make it a non issue, but I would think something should be there for a murphy's law type incident. I'm pretty familiar with murphy and his laws. I'm assuming this other piece is installed on top?? These upper pieces were just lying around in the boat and were not installed when I got it. There are no clips, holes, or screws in them, so I don't know if they were ever in place. These pieces are very thin, and i guess would do the job at preventing direct contact with the manifold, but if we skip back to the gas shock idea... they are way to flimsy to support anything.
    So what I really need to know is the easiest way to pull this off. I don't want to make up new dividers if I don't have to. Anyone have any pics of how they've set this up?
  • JWAT
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Feb 2004
    • 527

    • NE Indiana

    • 1997 Super Sport/Super Air Nautique 2008 Super Air Nautique 210

    #2
    Mr.O,

    I have a '97 Super Sport and installed an automatic ballast system that uses the fly high 400's in the back. I left the original engine dividers and hatch arm on. I have had it this way for 4 years and I have never had a problem. When the sac fills up, it pushes against the arm some, but nothing to worry about. Those sacs are super durable. The shorter dividers are the ones that go beside the engine. I have a feeling that taller divider in your picture is the one that goes between the back seat and the engine. But anyways, in short, if you want to do it the easiest way, just leave everything as it is and you will be fine.
    2008 Super Air Nautique 210TE

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    • bchesley
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Feb 2006
      • 1252

      • Tyler, Texas


      #3
      The shorter one is the starboard side divider as it has a cut out for the blower hose. The other board goes behind the back seat between it and the motor. You dont have to have them but it cuts down on engine noise.
      2001 Super Air Nautique
      Python Powered
      100 Amp Alternator
      Dual Batteries
      Many upgrades coming...

      Comment

      • bchesley
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 1252

        • Tyler, Texas


        #4
        Oh I forgot, you can make taller dividers out of treated plywood and cover them in carpet. I made some that are about three or four inches taller then the factory ones and bolted them in using the factory hardware.
        2001 Super Air Nautique
        Python Powered
        100 Amp Alternator
        Dual Batteries
        Many upgrades coming...

        Comment

        • WakeSlayer
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Sep 2005
          • 2069

          • Silver Creek, MN

          • 1968 Mustang

          #5
          I have split dividers that are full height when installed. I have 750 lb bags in there. No harm. Even when not full the push the boards against the manifolds, but being they are 160* it doesn't matter. You can tell the carpeting has had heat on it, and the spots have hardened a bit, but not really melted, if that makes sense. Won't hurt anything.
          Attached Files
          the WakeSlayer
          1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
          1968 Correct Craft Mustang

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          • Mr.O
            • Jun 2008
            • 34



            #6
            Thanks for the replies. Its nice to hear that I won't have to do all the stuff I thought I had to.

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