HELP! No power to the keypad. 2005 210 TE

[OKWAKEBDR]

While riding early this morning, I hit a wake and lost power and the boat died. I have no power to the keypad. (Everything that doesn't run through the keypad will work...i.e. tower lights, bilge, etc.). I got a tow back to the dock and got it loaded up, but I was unable to even empty my ballast.

Any ideas? I'm thinking maybe a loose wire somewhere behind the dash? Is there some sort of computer module that could be dead?

Help.

[N2Orbit]

I had my keypad on my 2001 SAN not working, the other day from testing wires. Not sure if this will help, but there is a small sealed fuse holder near the breaker box and main shut off. I replaced it and everything was fine. I know this is a long shot but hope it helps.

[AirTool]

There is a 4-wire plug on the back of the keypad. With the power off, carefully unplug it and plug it back in.
Just crawl under to get to it.

[OKWAKEBDR]

AirTool...Thanks. I tried that last night and it didn't work. I even went all the way to the circuit breaker, unplugged it and replugged, but still no luck.

[AirTool]

Double check the master toggle just in case....what other accessories run with the toggle on but the keypad not on?

[OKWAKEBDR]

By Master toggle, you are referring to the switch next to the driver's seat? I unfortunately checked it also...no luck. The first thing I checked (while still on the water), was the circuit breaker, kill switch, and master toggle.

None of the accessories that run through the keypad will work. (The lights on the keypad that light up as you press in the code don't even light up.) The only accessories that work are the tower lights (which are not wired in through the keypad - they have a toggle next to the master toggle), and the bilge. The only way the bilge works is when you flip the "master toggle" all the way down to "bilge only".

[AirTool]

By Master toggle, you are referring to the switch next to the driver's seat?

yes

The only way the bilge works is when you flip the "master toggle" all the way down to "bilge only".

That's what makes me think it is the up throw of the toggle. How hard is it to get a voltmeter behind that cover? The other day I got rained on while transporting my 206. When I got to the house...no power. I took out the keypad and it showed no signs of possible leaks. After the sun came out for a while, everything was fine. I'm sure it was the toggle. I saw another report of a toggle complaint.

If you can't get behind it to check the up through, maybe you can put a small squirt of tuner/contact cleaner down in the toggle and work it back and forth. Be careful spraying that stuff ... it might stain the plastic/bezels etc. All you need is a drop or two.

AirTool

[jmo]

Did you check the connections to the bilge only/kill/run toggle? I ended up with a dead boat once because the dealer didn't tighten down the kick panel its mounted on after installing a heater, and it had wobbled around enough on a 3 hour drive for it to disconnect one of the wires. Once I pushed it back on and I was back in business...

jmo

[OKWAKEBDR]

AirTool - I owe you!! It was the toggle switch "bilge only/kill/run". The post that the wire connects to is actually broken, but I was able to get it connected well enough to empty the ballast. Probably not good enough to take any bouncing around though (on the trailer or on the water). I took it to the local dealer this morning to replace the switch. Thanks a lot.

[richard]

2 nd keypad repair

last Sunday, I can't key on my 01SAN , no response when input code, noticed that the ACC. keypad lamps lighted not regular, I unplug ACC. keypad, the code keypad can work ! I have a good Sanday ! the code input keypad I repaired on Feb, still good , http://www.planetnautique.com/index....amp;highlight= the problem is the ACC. keypad, I bring it and of course had it surgery,foun water go to PCB,so I clean it with ulatrsonic clean and solder over 40 corrosive points , tested to boat 2 times,now I had it fixed.

[AirTool]

AirTool - I owe you!! .... Thanks a lot.

You are welcome.

[AirTool]

It was the toggle switch "bilge only/kill/run". The post that the wire connects to is actually broken,

Well today my day was ruined by the same problem. The "All On" load side terminal was loose inside the switch. I tested it with a volt meter and the harder I pressed on the terminal, the more voltage I got. I should have just unscrewed the load side and landed it on the power terminal or just reversed the switch to the bildge side. But I didn't. I cancelled the trip and spent half the day looking for new switch.

Absolutely rediculous to have a day off at the lake ruined by a six dollar switch.

PS old switch was from Mexico....new switch is from China. Same brand name on the side. I wish this )*#@!@#$ was made in USA. I'd pay 20 for quality switch. CC probably would too...if it were possible to buy one.

AirTool

[OKWAKEBDR]

That sucks. There was another thread on here last week from a guy that had the same problem. Sounds like a quality improvement project for CC. Surely it couldn't be any big deal to get a better switch.

[bmh2208]

I think the bigger issue is how it is setup in the first place. I recently troubleshoot a similar problem. My switch had died. I did a little investigative work on what they were doing with the wiring. From what I could tell, ALL the power for the main circuit breaker goes through that one switch. I said ALL. On my boat, there is a power wire that goes from the battery, to the switch, and then straight into the circuit breaker box. That means that all electronics, pumps, lights, etc. were running through that one switch. No wonder we all have problems with that switch. I fixed it by taking the switch and hooking it up to a relay that would then switch power directly from the battery to the circuit breaker.

[WakeSlayer]

Man, am I glad I have a key, and a breaker panel setup on my boat. I see too many of these threads.