1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushings -

[steelerguy]

I was hearing some grumbling when idling around 700rpm. It goes away just over idle. I had a similar sound on my 85 Ski Supreme and it was the damper plate that went. SO I figure while I change the plate I might as well change the strut bushing as they have never been done. Took about 4 hours. I took some pictures.

Changing the Plate was not very hard with the right tools. Strut bushings came right out with little help of a saws all.

Well that an My Father Inlaw is a machanic with his own shop

I am the second owner of this 1990 Sport Nautique and to my knowledge this type of maintenance has ever been done. So call it preventive maintenance.

I stripped a couple set screws and also had to order a new coupler. SO I should finish installing the coupler and do an allignment on Friday.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: 1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushings -

I am surprised your coupler was that hard to get off. The coupler on our 68 came off fairly easily and intact. There are a couple of tricks to doing this. Not that it matters to you at this point, as you are replacing. You can take threaded rods, and a socket just slightly smaller than the driveshaft and press it out by putting the socket between the trans side, and the shaft side coupler. When you put your new one on, heat it up in the oven for about an hour at 450*, put ice on the shaft. It will slide right together. worst case, a couple light taps. Try to get your alignment to under .002 gap difference, side to side, top to bottom, etc.
.000 is best !! There is a very good write up over on CCFAN about this. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum...itle=alignment

[steelerguy]

RE: 1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushings -

Hmmm Thanks for the tip.. That may have just worked. Had to heat it up serveral times and continue to beat off. The press Idea may have have worked but I could possibly have bent both sides vs one? None the less... We dont have an oven at the shop so we will heat the coupler with torches and put the shaft in the cooler with the Yinglings when we put it back together. As for the allignment, last time I did it, I was at .003 and that alone took 2hrs. I will aim for perfection this time.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: 1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushings -

As long as you evenly torque down the four bolts a little at a time, it will come off in almost all cases. If the shaft is bent and you are replacing, generally, the thinking is just cut it off as it is easier. Good call on doing the cutlass bearing, too, as long as you are in there. .003 is pretty good, just can be improved is all. Eric is THE trans guy, so I kind of take what he says as the final word. I got our Mustang to less than .002, but it did take a couple hours easily. The more time you spend on that end, the less time you may need to spend doing it again.

[steve-o]

RE: 1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushings -

I noticed it on mine as well, yours has it. Why does CC put the extra collar, or what is the collar for, behind the packing gland?

[AirTool]

Re: RE: 1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushings -

I noticed it on mine as well, yours has it. Why does CC put the extra collar, or what is the collar for, behind the packing gland?

Maybe as a stop to keep the shaft from slipping out the boat and into the water if something comes loose from the main connection?

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Re: RE: 1990 sport Fixings - Damper Plate - Strut Bushin

Before it slips all the way out it is going to bash your prop into your rudder. Really hard if you are under power when it lets go.

It should be as close to the packing gland as possible without touching.

[steelerguy]

I was thinking more to balance the shaft? In order to get the shaft out I had to take the Rudder off. No way its can come out with the rudder attached. Now if you lost the rudder and the shaft chances are you have more to worry about!

To get the Rudder out I had to slide the Gas tank out a bit. From there you can easily access the hardware to loosen and remove the rudder. These boats are built really well and easy to work on. Even fun at times

[WakeSlayer]

I was thinking more to balance the shaft? In order to get the shaft out I had to take the Rudder off. No way its can come out with the rudder attached. Now if you lost the rudder and the shaft chances are you have more to worry about!

To get the Rudder out I had to slide the Gas tank out a bit. From there you can easily access the hardware to loosen and remove the rudder. These boats are built really well and easy to work on. Even fun at times

It is to prevent the loss of the shaft, either into the rudder, or the drink, depending on how it happens. If the shaft let's go under extreme power, it is going to hit your rudder, really, really hard. If you rockpile it and take the bottom off, or just the prop, even, the shaft will bypass the rudder if it comes out. In that instance, the opint is probably moot, as your shaft will be junk.

I, too, really like working on direct drives. Big block V-drives are a bit challenging unless you are a 110lb contortionist.... which I am not.

[steelerguy]

As always my parts from SKIDIM were right on time. Living in PA it takes 2 days for ground every time.

Preparing for the worst We heated up my new coupler. For good measure I put some ice on the shaft as well. None the Less this thing went on like a hot knife through butter. Will it ever come off that easy I hope I dont have to find out.

As for the Alignment. I thought I was at .003 last season when we did it. My father inlaw argued that we were dead nuts.
WHen check this time it was .002 on the left side. We are leaving it at that.

Water test tomorrow... Sunday.. Im not worried.

[DanielC]

the "extra" collar is there to retain the propshaft in the boat. It is one of the many things Correct Craft does, like two hose clamps on below the waterline fittings.

[WakeSlayer]

.002 is really good, but a little time and you can get .000. That is way better for your trans.

[AirTool]

Shouldn't the alignment be checked in the water?

Does anyone have actual on the trailer vs in the water alignment data for DDs?

[DanielC]

Ideally, you should check the alignment with the boat floating. However, A Correct Craft is usually built solid enough that you can get away with alignment checks done on a trailer.
I have noticed some differences in the windshield fit from being on a trailer, to floating, with open bow boats, including Correct Crafts.

[SNobsessed]

I have checked my alignment both on the trailer & in the water, both last year & this year. The alignment changed about .003-.004, which is the allowable tolerance, so if you have it at .000 on the trailer, then you would still be good on the water. My boat has good stringers, as far as I know. I would recommend checking it in the water. I just had it free floating on the trailer in case something went wrong!