Do it yourself prop repair

[DanielC]

Wheel bearings, and prop shaft use of castle nuts are two different applications. On a prop shaft, the nut must remain tight. If it is not, the the contact in the taper can be lost, and the prop will move around on the prop shaft, and wear the bore of the propeller. The prop may not seat correctly each time you shift into a forward gear, and cause a vibration.
The prop must be seated on the taper. The castle nut is then installed, and turned to make contact with the propeller. The nut is then tightened further until a hole becomes available for the cotter pin. If it takes an excessive amount of torque to get to the next available hole, get a different castle nut, or flat file the back side of the castle nut.

[slob02]

I have had 3 nautiques and have had friends with many and I have never seen one stay tight on the taper after hitting reverse. Not saying it shouldn't though. If you keep it on a trailer, the last thing you do is accelerate forward to get it on the trailer (tight on the shaft) . If you put it on a boat lift, the last thing you do is hit reverse (pulling away from the shaft). I just don't know if it is something I should worry about or not. I too would think it should be tight on the shaft........but of my 93,95, and 97....and a friends 92, 97, and 98...none have stayed tight after hitting reverse??????

[8122pbrainard]

Everyone who feels it's the nut that holds the prop on really should take a look at this thread: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum...llation#145077

I've seen boats come into the marina with the prop nuts missing!!!

Also, whether you use a castle nut or the nylon locking type please use a brass nut. The stainless nut to the stainless shaft can gal up the treads. Then you're lucky to get the nut off without screwing up the threads. I've had to cut the stainless nuts off to save the shaft. If you do want to use the stainless nut, at least get some anti-seize on the threads.