2001 210 SAN V-Drive, and Motor ?

[boutwell_43]

I have had my boat for a couple months now. I was going to change my fluids out and was going to see what you guys recommend for the motor (gt-40), v-drive, and the tranny. I just did not want to put anything in it. Wanted to see what you guys use. Thanks

[bchesley]

RE: 2001 210 SAN V-Drive, and Motor ?

Delo 30W in the Vdrive, Valvoline Dexron III for the Tranny, and Royal Purple 15w-40 for the motor. I will be switching over to Royal Purple in the Vdrive next season.

[Roddyj]

RE: 2001 210 SAN V-Drive, and Motor ?

i believe royal purple is synthetic. i could be wrong. if it is, it is a known fact that you do not want to put that into your 351.

straight 30w oil (any brand really) in the v drive. ATF (dex III) or 20w in the tranny. my machanic has told me that some of these trannys around these years have a little rattle/crackling noise. if yours does, run 20w. its a little thicker. straight 40w in the engine. most people seems to use the rotella t if you can find it or the valvoline VR-1. i used 15-40w in mine last time at the approval of white lake machanics becuase its much easier to find.

[TexanC3]

Re: RE: 2001 210 SAN V-Drive, and Motor ?

i believe royal purple is synthetic. i could be wrong. if it is, it is a known fact that you do not want to put that into your 351.

straight 30w oil (any brand really) in the v drive. ATF (dex III) or 20w in the tranny. my machanic has told me that some of these trannys around these years have a little rattle/crackling noise. if yours does, run 20w. its a little thicker. straight 40w in the engine. most people seems to use the rotella t if you can find it or the valvoline VR-1. i used 15-40w in mine last time at the approval of white lake machanics becuase its much easier to find.

Any reason not to use synthetic oil in a GT-40?

[AirTool]

Re: RE: 2001 210 SAN V-Drive, and Motor ?

Valvoline Dexron III for the Tranny

Note: I've been finding the "Mobil" Dex/Merc at the Exxon Tiger Mart gas station/convenience stores. The price is fair. It is the only place I have found it. Even my oil jobber can't get it.

[bchesley]

RE: Re: RE: 2001 210 SAN V-Drive, and Motor ?

The royal purple synthetic 15w40 has a high level of the zinc additive and is fine to run in a gt40. No reason not too other than cost. I am sure regular valvoline VR1 works fine, I just like the RP products. I use them in all my other vehicles.

Who ever told you its a known fact not to run it is pulling your leg.

[boutwell_43]

Thanks for the advice.

[Roddyj]

its a pretty common fact that a fully synthetic should not be used in the gt-40. now i dont know about the zinc levels in RP, but why even bother with it anyway because of the cost. you can get a gallon jug of rotella for 12 bucks. this oil just a pefectly fine job of doing what its supposed to do. you're goign to have to change the oil every 50 hrs anyhow. but to each his own. EVERY other thread on this website from people who have multiple hundreds to thousands of hours on their gt-40s DO NOT recommned a synthetic. but once again, do as you please, its your engine and your money.

[bchesley]

All you have stated is second hand opinions. As long as an oil meets the required specifications its more than capable of working in a gt40 synthetic or not. I clearly stated that its not required but that I choose to use it because I like their products. And it always seems to be followed up with a my x brand for x dollars works so much better.

Its pretty common fact that rotella reformulated their oil and removed some of the zinc and it should no longer be used in a gt40. You know, I am just saying.

Sorry for the sarcasm, just been one of those days.

[jhiestand]

Its pretty common fact that rotella reformulated their oil and removed some of the zinc and it should no longer be used in a gt40.

I didn't realize this was "fact" and have read quite a bit on the subject. Can you point me to the source of this info? I've scoured BobIsTheOilGuy and tons of racing/tuner sites and haven't found anything definitive about Rotella significantly dropping zinc levels. The main reason I've been checking is Valvoline VR1 40w40 is becoming more scarce in my area and I was hoping to use the Rotella if I can no longer find the VR1.

boutwell_43, the main info you need when choosing fluids for your engine is that the GT40 is a flat tappet motor that requires high levels of zinc in the oil to lubricate properly. Very few oils nowadays have sufficient levels of zinc. Do a search on "GT40" and "zinc" and you'll get a ton of threads on what people are using.

As pointed out earlier, any straight 30w oil for the v-drive and Dexron III for the transmission, you'll be fine.

[WakeSlayer]

This is PCM's longstanding statement from the FAQ on their website:

Q. Can I use synthetic oil in my PCM engine?
A: Synthetic oils are not recommended for use in PCM engines. Synthetic oils may offer advantages in cold temperature pumpability and high temperature oxidation-resistance. However, synthetic oils have not proven to provide operational or economic benefits over conventional petroleum based oils in PCM engines. Their use does not permit the extension of oil change intervals.


My feeling is that they started using this statement many years ago and have never changed it.
I sent them an email asking why. Personally, I have just always run Mobil1 15w50 in mine and have never seen a reason not too. I may switch it to conventional for sake of ease. I run conventional oil in everything else. I do think that as long as the zinc content is as it should be, you are fine.

You defnitely should not be running synthetics in your vdrive or trans, however. You should not even run "high mileage" dexron in your trans. Conventional ONLY.

[WakeSlayer]

I think Brad indicated that his sarcasm switch was turned on at that point.
I did try to search on Shell's spec sheets and could not get them to come up on thier website, the one that did made no mention of a zinc/phosphorous content. Mobile 1's sheets do indicate. As do Valvoline's

[bchesley]

I have another motorized obsession and that would be modified diesels. Several years ago when they changed over to the 2007 emission standards the oil formulation was changed. It was changed a very minor amount but some of the hardcore diesel guys were not happy. There was a thread on diesel truck resource about it. I have used a synthetic in my diesel once I got the rings set. It never ceases to amaze me when oil becomes a thread topic how serious people get about what to run.

[DanielC]

First the background, have a 1997 Ski Nautique, 2233.1 hours. I also take care of a 1998 Ski Nautique about 1325? hours.

Engine oil Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, 40 weight.
Engine oil filter Motorcraft FL1-A. DO NOT EVER USE AN ORANGE OIL FILTER!
Transmission fluid, Valvoline Dexron/Mercon AFT
V-drive oil, 30 w nondetergent oil.
I suggest you change the raw water pump impeller every 100 hours. You can go longer on the impeller, provided you remove it at winter layup, and you inspect it, looking for cracks in the blades, and seeing how flexible it is compared to a new impeller.
Keep the raw water strainer clean.

[Mr.O]

DO NOT EVER USE AN ORANGE OIL FILTER!

What's the big scare here? When is a filter not a filter?

Like wakeslayer i've been on the mobil 15w50. It was an availability issue. Wouldn't some multi viscosity with a 40 be better than the 50? The oil paranoia has resurfaced.