Automated flow rite solution?

[TRDon]

I have done a lot of searches and have seen solutions tot he leaky flow rite problems but not too many showed price or were to get them. I am looking to fix this on my boat over the next couple of months. I am curious as to what other options people have done, automated or not other than the TH valves (which I am trying to find the best price on as a plan B). What have to all done? How much did it cost and where did you get the parts?

Thanks in advance.

[TRDon]

RE: Automated flow rite solution?

Anyone try these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-Electric-Sol...d=p3911.c0.m14

[wakejunky]

Do not use those solenoid valves. I tried them and there is two problems.

1.) They are way slow, and I mean way.
2.) The aerator pumps can't push water through them and you have to be rolling in order to get enough pressure to push water past them.

I'm in the same situation, I have the THMarine valves and I'm finding that I'm still having problems, one of my tanks will fill no matter what and the other will not let enough water through to prime the pump.
And the location of those valves has got to be in the worst location ever, directly under the engine so, getting to them is a royal pain. I've thought about finding a door lock or some other sort of actuator to replace the cable actuator and then move the valves someplace more accessible like right before the tubing goes into the tank.
I've even thought about replacing the aerator pumps with simer but, I'm pretty much out of room in my engine compartment to accomadate two large simer pumps.
So, I'll keep my eye on this thread.

Chris
www.wakejunky.com

[WakeSlayer]

Wakejunky

What is in your engine compartment that leaves you no room for a couple pumps?

I am sure you all know where I am headed with this.......

[bowvan]

I'm using the same valves linked to above, but the 1" model, not the 1/2". I use them to fill the stock tanks and additional bags. They haven't increased my fill times at all. You could probably get away with using the 3/4" model and be fine. They are designed to open at 0 psi, but are directional. If your having problems priming your pump('s), its more likely a problem with the routing of your hose, not the valves. I had a similar issue with one pump not keeping primed unless the boat was moving. I fixed it by re-routing the hose.

I've been using a total of six of these valves for almost a year and they have worked flawlessly.

[TRDon]

As much as I like the ballast puppy idea, I have a hard time with wiring relays and battery feeds in addition to the cost af nearly 800 dollars to fix something that should be relatively simple and cheap. I dont mind the fill and empty times of the existing pumps too bad. For 800, I am not in a hurry at all.

[Gizmo]

I use the 3/4" version of those solenoids. They are not any slower than the flow rite valves. I do have to prime the pumps by forwared movement but thats a function of the aerator pumps not the valves. I would say go with valves at least the same size or larger than your tubing.

[TRDon]

I wasnt sure how well they would work considering they are nearly as cheap as the flow rites and they would be automatic with pump on and off which would be awesome. This would make it fully automated with the push of a button at the dash and I could pull those cables and valves for good.

[bowvan]

TRDon,

The valves aren't much harder to install either. The hardest part was finding the right fittings to adapt to the threads of the valves. I found some barbed fittings at Lowe's that worked well.

FYI, if you want to add extra bags on top of your tanks, you can use the same valves to automatically close/open your empty lines as well.

[goodfoot00]

I bought my solenoid valves at STC Valve.

http://www.stcvalve.com/I-Solenoid-spec-2W-2S.htm

They are much cheaper than Asco and have a higher CV rating. Nice guys too.

[bchesley]

Guys I can see your points as to wanting to fix what you have, but no matter how hard you try its just a bad design. Wakeslayer and I are advocates because we have seen the light......

[Red57Bird]

I'm using the same valves linked to above, but the 1" model, not the 1/2". I use them to fill the stock tanks and additional bags. They haven't increased my fill times at all. You could probably get away with using the 3/4" model and be fine. They are designed to open at 0 psi, but are directional. If your having problems priming your pump('s), its more likely a problem with the routing of your hose, not the valves. I had a similar issue with one pump not keeping primed unless the boat was moving. I fixed it by re-routing the hose.

I've been using a total of six of these valves for almost a year and they have worked flawlessly.

Same here - I used the 1" versions on the fill side and they work great.

[Mikeski]

Just finished my second summer with my modified ballast system. Still works great. The impellers seem to be getting a little weak and leak a little water now. I will probably replace the impellers next spring to solve the issue.

http://www.planetnautique.com/index....27&start=0

[Mikeski]

Another solution would be to cap the existing through hulls and put some on the back of the boat with gate valves like MB does. Drill new holes in the back of the boat so you they only fill when the boat is stopped. You could do it with one hole and a manifold if you looped the hoses up and added anti siphon vents.