Rudder lubrication question

[intrlaz]

I noticed a small leak around the 4 bolts in the rudder plate in my 2002 super air, so I decided to clean and reseal the holes and plate with 5200. To drop the plate down an inch or so, I removed the pittman arm from the rudder. From what posts I have read, the rudder should move freely and just about fall out with the arm removed.

In my case, the rudder was extremely tight. I am not sure if I needed to remove the packing nut, but decided against it because I did not want to repack. I only dropped the rudder down about an inch to allow access to the sealant under the boat.

Should the rudder move freely with even with the packing nut still on? I have noticed the the overall steering is somewhat tight, and purchased a new steering cable for a future project. Also, what solvent has anyone found to work best for cleaning the old sealant off?

Thanks

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Rudder lubrication question

Try your steering with the pitman arm disconnected. That should tell you if it is the cable or your rudder.
The rudder should rotate back and forth pretty smoothly when disconnected. Did it get hit? Thinking maybe your rudder took a shot and that is what broke your seal on the rudder port. If so, if it was hard enough it could bend the rudder shaft a little and make that stiff. I guess your packing nut could be so tight that it makes it a little hard to turn. If you have it this far apart, you may as well repack it, it is an easy enough job to do. $15 and 15 minutes.

[intrlaz]

I just bought the boat so I'm not sure if the the rudder shaft could be damaged by a collision. I believe the boat had bottom paint and was kept in the water, which i guess could explain why the sealant is so rotten. Also, it looks as though the wrong sealant was used or was not applied correctly. I sealant was still wet when I took the bolts out.

If I do replace the packing, how tight should the nut be? Maybe hand tight plus 1/2 - 3/4 turn? I would love to get my hands on a service manual if anyone has an electronic copy

[WakeSlayer]

That is about right, 1/4 to 1/2. Just inspect after an hour or two on the water and see if any water is doming through. You don't need the 6 drops per minute like the prop shaft.
You may as well drop your rudder out and look at it. If the shaft is bent at all you should be able to see wear on it.

5200 is the right stuff to use on the port. Takes 7-10 days to cure, but will cure underwater. Let it start to set up for a few hours, and then install and tighten. If you can, I would use the regular, and not the fast cure, but it probably doesn't make much of a difference.

edit: There are CC and PCM owners manuals in the download section.

[intrlaz]

Great thanks for the help.

Any reason why I should not use the fast curing??

I did find the PCM and Nautique owners manuals. I was thinking there would be a service manual that techs have similar to auto/motorcycle service manuals

[WakeSlayer]

Not really. I just think that if the boat is going to be out of the water for a week anyway......
I think they pretty much end up the same. I use the fast cure on internal stuff, just so I don't bump it in a couple days and get that stuff all over me.