Can someone explain to me exactly how it works? TIA
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I would also love to hear some tips for winterization on the ZR6 with closed cooling. I have winterized many raw water cooled engine in the past but am not clear on what items have to be drained in the closed cooling setup and what don't. Obviously the block does not need to be drained and I don't have a heater so that is not an issue.
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From the link I posted...
Off-Season Storage ( WINTERIZING )
Winterizing a fresh water cooling system.
Water expands as it freezes, and will deform or break metal parts if it is constrained. Because of the way ice forms it can break parts even if the part is only partly full of water. The primary winterization task is to insure that there is no water which may freeze in parts which do not permit sufficient expansion. This generally means that all raw water should be removed from the system, whether introduced by running in fresh water, or flushing the raw water circuit.
Replace the antifreeze based on the engine manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring it is the correct mixture for complete protection in your climate. If your antifreeze mixture is two years old you should replace it. As the fluid ages it loses the chemicals that inhibit corrosion and lubricate the pump. If you replace with an extended-life coolant product you can extend the replacement intervals to 3 to 5 years.
Full system (100 %) – Antifreeze protects the engine block and the exhaust manifold(s). You must drain any standing raw water from the rest of the system.
Half system (50 %) – Antifreeze protects the engine block only. You must drain any standing raw water from the rest of the system.
Drain raw water from any incoming raw water filter, any heater if separate from the antifreeze circuit, any water pump, any oil, gear, transmission or power-steering coolers.
Remove the raw water supply hose at the lowest point which most easily drains the above accessories.
Remove the end caps to drain and inspect the heat exchanger. Clean out any debris. Make sure you replace the neoprene gaskets before putting the boat back in service. Inspect the zinc anode often during use and replace when half gone. If you find rubber bits in the exchanger, they probably came from the raw water pump. Check the pump and replace the impeller if it is worn or over two years old. Be sure there are no impeller parts lodged in the hoses or elsewhere in the system as they will eventually move to an inconvenient place and restrict water flow. The sacrificial zinc anodes frequently spall, and there will probably be zinc bits in the exchanger which should be cleaned out.
All cooling systems depend upon a steady and reliable flow of water. Inspect and maintain your raw water strainer and pump according to your owner’s manual. When you check the strainer be sure there is a basket or screen securely in place.
RTFM as they say.
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