Winterizing

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  • Flipside
    • Feb 2009
    • 137

    • Portland, OR


    Winterizing

    If I am going to keep boat in a heated storage unit over the winter with slight chance of use maybe once or twice on sunny days, is it harmful not to winterize your boat?

    I would put Stabol in full tank of gas and maintain the battery charge, but other than this is it harmful to just leave your boat "un-winterized" if there is no risk of freezing?
  • WakeSlayer
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Sep 2005
    • 2069

    • Silver Creek, MN

    • 1968 Mustang

    #2
    RE: Winterizing

    Define "no risk".

    I would at least drain the block. Takes 10 minutes tops. Better safe than sorry.
    the WakeSlayer
    1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
    1968 Correct Craft Mustang

    Comment

    • sport96
      • Sep 2009
      • 1



      #3
      RE: Winterizing

      is it best to just drain everthing or run antifreeze untill it runs out the exhaust and is there a stabilizer for the oil ?

      Comment

      • bchesley
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 1252

        • Tyler, Texas


        #4
        RE: Winterizing

        I rarely get temps that go below 28 degrees here in Texas and never long enough to freeze with out me getting to it. Taking all of that into account I would still at a minimum drain the block after each use for peace of mind. I also would change the oil at the end of the season so that it has fresh oil in it. Oil can build up contaminants over the summer that are not good to leave in the motor. Adding the stabil is also a must to keep the fuel from breaking down. It can start oxidizing as fast as two weeks.
        2001 Super Air Nautique
        Python Powered
        100 Amp Alternator
        Dual Batteries
        Many upgrades coming...

        Comment

        • WakeSlayer
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Sep 2005
          • 2069

          • Silver Creek, MN

          • 1968 Mustang

          #5
          RE: Winterizing

          There is a guy on here or CCF, in WA state. Thought he was safe last winter. Inside a building, never freezes, had a trouble light in the engine box...... unusual cold snap, bulb burned out, you can assume the rest.

          He ended up buying a new motor this year.

          Drain it, and stabilize, you will be fine. Also agree with Brad on the oil change.

          The AF is a good idea, but a pain in the rear if you are going to use the boat. Personally, I would use it, but your climate is quite different than mine.
          The biggest benefit is anti corrosion, and it keeps your impeller pliable. They last for many years if you do this.
          the WakeSlayer
          1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
          1968 Correct Craft Mustang

          Comment

          • DanielC
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Nov 2005
            • 2669

            • West Linn OR

            • 1997 Ski Nautique

            #6
            RE: Winterizing

            Did not one of the Space Shuttles blow up because of freezing temperatures?
            Where in Texas can you be, and have a mountain range between you and Canada?
            Remember the rare storm that causes freezing weather, can also take out power and would your heater work then?

            I have let my boat sit with water in it, and kept it warm with lights. You have to check it every day, and know how to get the water out, if for some reason you need to.
            Do not laugh, but my heat source was a string of Christmas tree lights. More than one bulb, so if one burns out, several more are still working, and I can put a bulb or two up by the heater.

            Comment

            • frozone
              • Aug 2009
              • 25

              • SLC, Utah


              #7
              RE: Winterizing

              Rather than draining the boat and then filling with antifreeze, have any of you ever just run RV antifreeze through a fake a lake until antifreeze comes out the exhaust ports. Wouldn't this take care of everything except your accessories (like a heater, which of I'm guessing you'd still need to drain)? What would be the downside to this method? Any guesses on how many gallons of Antifreeze this might require on an Excalibur 330 in a 226.

              Comment

              • Hollywood
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Sep 2003
                • 1930

                • WIIL


                #8
                Re: RE: Winterizing

                Originally posted by frozone
                What would be the downside to this method?
                The water already in the block dilutes the A/F you just sucked in.

                YOU NEED TO DRAIN THE BLOCK FIRST, no matter what your winterization method.

                Comment

                • WakeSlayer
                  1,000 Post Club Member
                  • Sep 2005
                  • 2069

                  • Silver Creek, MN

                  • 1968 Mustang

                  #9
                  RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                  RV antifreeze CANNOT be diluted. Period.
                  You can use automotive AF, but it needs to be diluted to work However, you have no idea what the ratio is unless you drain the block first and then premix it.
                  In the past I did not drain before using automotive, but I have seen the error of my ways. Totally idiotic and I simply got lucky all those years.

                  As stated numerous times before and directly above: YOU MUST DRAIN THE BLOCK, MANIFOLDS, AND RWP FIRST.

                  It takes 10 minutes tops.


                  Edit: about 5 gallons.
                  the WakeSlayer
                  1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
                  1968 Correct Craft Mustang

                  Comment

                  • Hollywood
                    1,000 Post Club Member
                    • Sep 2003
                    • 1930

                    • WIIL


                    #10
                    Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                    Originally posted by WakeSlayer
                    In the past I did not drain before using automotive, but I have seen the error of my ways. Totally idiotic and I simply got lucky all those years.
                    x2. Or be the next victim of a cracked block that you thought was winterized. Happens on the MC forum every spring.

                    Comment

                    • bchesley
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Feb 2006
                      • 1252

                      • Tyler, Texas


                      #11
                      RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                      Draining the water literally takes maybe 10 minutes and less if you have a direct drive. It takes me ten to remove my panels to get to my block plugs. My heater hose is also right on top so I blow it out at the same time. Super easy. Since I am on crutches and have been for a month i will be using my boat again this year so it will not be fully winterized just a partial as described above. I am dying to get back on the lake but I have 4 more weeks in a cast then a few weeks of rehab.
                      2001 Super Air Nautique
                      Python Powered
                      100 Amp Alternator
                      Dual Batteries
                      Many upgrades coming...

                      Comment

                      • oldslalomskier
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 131



                        #12
                        RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                        Other than the oil change and Stabil I'd leave it as long as you can monitor the temps.

                        Comment

                        • frozone
                          • Aug 2009
                          • 25

                          • SLC, Utah


                          #13
                          RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                          Some of this has been covered in another winterization thread so I apologize. I'm new to my 226, have never winterized it. I'm having a hard time getting to the block plugs. I tried to remove the panels on the the port side but can't make it happen, obviously there's a way but I can't figure it out. With the port side stern walthrough, the panels go right up into the fiberglass, there's no bracket to remove like on the starboard side. I can get the stern end to lift up to where I could potentially separate them but can't get enough space toward the bow side of the panels to get them to come out fo the track and come apart.

                          If I could figure out how to get the panels off this would be a lot easier. Right now I've got heated storage, but it's temporary and I need to know how to do this stuff to my boat. At any rate, I wouldn't put it in heated storage for the winter without draining the block. I'll pay someone to winterize my boat, but that won't teach me what I need to know to be able to do it myself.

                          Comment

                          • SNobsessed
                            • Nov 2008
                            • 60



                            #14
                            Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                            Originally posted by frozone
                            I'll pay someone to winterize my boat, but that won't teach me what I need to know to be able to do it myself.
                            Maybe you can pay the dealer to show you how to remove the panels. At least you would only have to pay once.

                            Comment

                            • oldslalomskier
                              • Aug 2009
                              • 131



                              #15
                              RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

                              Just remember that most insurers will NOT pay for winterization damage

                              Comment

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