2002 SAN Rear Locker / Hatch actuator electrical problems

[WakeSlayer]

I have big power and ground run from the battery to dist boxes behind the kick panel. In my head, I am just going to run a new ground from the dist box to the ignition, and test. I have problems with my NAV, Anchor, and heater. If my initial test doesn't appear to work, I will run separate grounds to all problematic breakers. I do not plan to run additional power.

[G]

I have a 2003 SAN 210. I don't have a problem with the trunk actuators, but I have noticed that my volt guage never gets much over 10v or 11v. Everything runs fine individually, but If we have the stereo, lights, and heater on, and maybe the pumps it continues to beep and flashes low voltage, but all the lights are bright and everything works fine. Is this a product of the power and ground being to small to the back of the circuit breaker,and giving me false readings?

[WakeSlayer]

Yes. Common problem.

[h2ohangtime]

So I checked the wire from the battery to the switch today -- it's 12 AWG. Do I need to go bigger (8-10)? What does everyone else have in terms of their original wire gauge? Before I buy 20+ feet of $3/ft wire, I want to make sure that it will actually fix the problem.

Do these actuators just draw a ton of current?

I've looked everywhere I can think of on the internet and this seems to be the only place the problem is discussed.

[bmh2208]

I would think that they wire will be fine. You could always go bigger. Just make sure to terminate the wires properly. I would grab a new toggle switch. The key is to make sure that it is rated for high current. Because ALL the power for ALL accessories goes through the switch and down that wire, the switch sees a lot of abuse. Over the years, the contacts can get dirty and corroded.

I would get a new switch, and run the new wire. Off the top of my head, there should be power running from the perko switches directly to the toggle switch. The power then goes from the toggle to the circuit breaker. I think the other pole on the switch goes to the power for the auto bilge. For the connections at the toggle switch, do yourself a favor and properly solder and heatshrink over the connections. The abuse from the boat crashing through the wakes puts an enormous stress on the slide terminals that come from the factory. You can even go so far as the solder the ring terminal for where the wire attaches to the circuit breaker.

I think after you do all of this, your electrical system will be much healthier and less of a problem.

Now if I can only find the time to listen to my recommendations and do it on mine. My relay I installed to route the power directly to the circuit breaker instead of through the switch went out and need to redo it.

Goodluck!

[h2ohangtime]

Thanks Brad, I'll give that switch a look and see if that works.

[h2ohangtime]

Oops, I meant Brandon...sorry!

[h2ohangtime]

Well, I just replaced the lousy 10A switch with a Cole Hersee (#54111) SPDT Illuminated 25A switch, and I'm still having the same problem. Any other ideas?

[bmh2208]

Did you rewire the power from the battery to the switch and from the switch to the circuit breaker box? You can also consider running a better ground from the battery to the breaker if it doesn't already have a good one.

Is the power to your stereo still going through the stock power wires, or is it wired directly to the battery?

I can't remember, but is the problem still that the stereo cuts out when you press the hatch switch?

[h2ohangtime]

Haven't rewired yet because it was more expensive to do that than change the switch and I already have 12 AWG wire running there...not sure what going to 10 AWG or even 8 AWG would do for me incrementally.

New ground is an option...I'll have to look at that as well.

When I had the stock Clarion in there (only took the boat out once before I changed the deck) I was experiencing the cut-out problem. After putting in the Sony deck, that doesn't happen anymore. I just see my voltmeter go from about 12.5 to 10.5 when I press the actuator button.

[bmh2208]

Then the first thing that I would try is to run power for the 12V and ground for the radio directly to the battery. You will still obviously use the accessory wire still.