Propeller and swim platform question

[pitts12driver]

I just purchased a (barely) used 2004 216 Air Limited that had 101 hours since new. It performs wonderfully, but I have two questions. I'd like to carry a spare prop and nut but I have no idea what prop to buy. I'm assuming the boat has a stock prop. All recommendations welcomed.

Secondly, I was curious about switching out my teak swim platform for the newer composite variety. Again, I'm interested in any opinions about why that might be a mistake. If there are any sources for the platform other than the local dealer, I'd love to know.

thanks very much

[SNobsessed]

RE: Propeller and swim platform question

Pitts - I think it would be difficult to change a prop while out on the water, so carrying a spare in the boat doesn't seem practical to me. However, it is a good idea to have a spare at home. or even in your truck - - could save the rest of the weekend.

I would get your next prop to be the next step smaller pitch, that tends to be the way people go so you can load up maximum ballast. The CNC props are very popular (Acme, OJ). Call Delta Propeller & they will give you good advise.

Keeping your boat original is a great reason to stay with the teak platform. If you keep it touched up with Starbright or similar finish it isn't much work.

[DanielC]

RE: Propeller and swim platform question

If you do not abnormally load your boat down, the stock prop is fine. I believe there is a deal going on with one of the PlanetNautique site sponsors.
Keep the teak platform. It is way lower maintenance that the fiberglass platforms. You can just ignore it if you want, or you can keep it clean and oiled with Meguires gold teak oil.

[SNobsessed]

RE: Propeller and swim platform question

Hi Daniel - Would you buy a spare prop exactly the same as the one you currently have, or would it be a good opportunity to try something new?

[DanielC]

RE: Propeller and swim platform question

About the prop, I do not know. If you load the boat excessively, you might benefit from a lower pitch propeller.
How do you use the boat?

[SkiTower]

RE: Propeller and swim platform question

If you're happy with the performance, keep the same prop. I needed more pitch to offset the smaller engine. Otherwise, I believe engineers know something about matching props with engines and boats. In my case they didn't plan on a 300 lb sea anchor on a slalom ski. Just remember, everything is a trade-off. You gain in hole shot you lose somewhere else (top end, efficiency, etc)

As for the platform, unless you have money to burn I'd keep the teak. I just replaced mine (due to damage) and it was $1800. Wish I had that to add things instead of fix things. But apples to apples I prefer my composite.

[AirTool]

RE: Propeller and swim platform question

I suspect you have either a 4 blade 422 or a 3 blade 470. Below is a list of what would fit based on shaft diameter and prop diameter. I'm 99% sure 13" props are NOT recommeded for the 216. Tell us what prop you have and what your planned uses are and I can point you to another prop. Otherwise, just get the same prop or a 422 as a spare. There are web tools on acmemarine.com or deltaprop.com you can play around with the numbers....or contact BWeeks@acmemarine.com.

Ditto changing the prop in the water would be a PITA.

http://www.acmemarine.com/prop-list_ski-boat.php

ACME 1" Bore RH Rotation
Part # DIA Pitch Cup BLD Bore ROT
1606 12.50 11.50 .040 cup 3 1" RH
1604 12.50 11.50 .060 cup 3 1" RH
1210 12.50 12.00 .080 cup 3 1" RH
470 12.50 15.00 .105 cup 3 1" RH
654 12.50 15.00 .105 cup 4 1" RH
422 12.50 15.50 .105 cup 4 1" RH
668 12.50 15.50 .150 cup 4 1" RH

[pitts12driver]

Thanks everyone. Extremely helpful information. I ordered a 422 using the discount on the site.

[G-man]

If you have to change props on the water do yourself a favor and take the platform off. You can reach everything a lot easier. Sometimes this is hard to remeber in the heat of the moment.

[Flipside]

Too late to offer my input on the prop, but my vote would be to stick with the teak. The person I bought my boat off of did nothing to the teak. You can do this too if you wish. I chose to put some elbow grease into it to restore it by sanding it and adding a few coats of teak oil. To me you can't beat the look of teak. It adds a touch of class to the boat. Adding teak oil does not make the platform slippery once it has absorbed.

If you don't want teak, I bet you there are lots of us on here who would buy your old one....

[WA-H2O-SKI]

I love the teak, but still think a coat of wax once a year to a fiberglass deck is a LOT LESS work than maintaining a good looking teak one......... Seafin is amazing teak oil, but it is PRICY!!!

[DanielC]

A coat of wax is not going to protect the fiberglass platform from fins on skis and wakeboards, nor will it help it when hits a dock pulling away. The gelcoat will get scratched.
To repair a gelcoat ding, you have to get the gelcoat, catalyze and apply it, sand it with several grits of sandpaper, buff it, polish it, and then wax it. And then you have to clean the wax that got on the rubber parts of the platform.
With teak, scrub it with a stiff nylon brush when it is still wet, and after it dries, put oil on it, with fine bronze wool, or a rag. Done. Teak is also a lot more durable than gelcoat
I use Meguires gold teak oil. My last 16 oz bottle was $6.99

[shag]

My prop change kit is probably a lil more detailed than most. I have the prop, an extra nut or two, extra woodruff key or two, extra cotter pins (incase you drop any thing while in the water)a small hammer, block of wood (or a prop puller), a mask, and a spare air if you aren't good at holding your breath. VERY IMPORTANT FIRST - REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION, OR LOCK THE KEYPAD ON THE NEWER BOATS BEFORE GOING UNDER THE PLATFORM. Legally you should lockout/tagout the ignition while doing this. I have replaced 1 prop this way without any problems. Of course that was with a prop that was not 'seized' on.
loosen the nut a few threads first (so the prop doesn't fall off) then tap on the back of the hub with the block of wood/hammer, then it should be self explanatory from there. Try to do it in shallow water if possible, so if you drop the prop, it would be easier to find.