When the toggle is in the down position the light is on for the bilge pump. When I move the toggle to the upper position I don't get any power to the key pad and can't enter my code on my 08 boat. This boat also lost all power the other day at 30 mph. Toggle was reset and then worked fine the rest of the day. Any suggestions???
X
-
RE: boat won
http://www.planetnautique.com/index....amp;highlight=
Had the same problem on mine a few months ago...
Check the connection of the wire to the toggle switch on the back side.Current: 2017 G23
Previous: 2012 210 TE (former PN boat), 2005 210 TE, 2001 X-Star
-
-
RE: boat won
Several of us have had to replace the toggle. You can test it with a volt meter. If it shows good, wiggle the connector around....it might then show bad.
If you know the one side is good, reverse the load sides (switch the wires on the outside connectors...the middle connector is hot) and see what happens. Note the connector position is opposite the toggle i.e. up position is down connector.
I believe the switch is Blue Sea 4152 WeatherDeck Toggle Switch. (Please double check model number.) I'm trying to find a better quality switch so it might last longer. The connector failed "mechanically". It could see it was loose inside the housing.
http://www.keenzo.com/zoom.asp?zoom=1197059
Comment
-
-
RE: boat won
I appreciate the reponses. I am bringing the boat in for some other warantee tomorrow. It was just a cold swim pushing the boat this morning in the rain to get it on the trailer. I hope it is just in the toggle as up until now has been an intermittent problem. Also could the loss of all power at 30 mph still be assosciated with the toggle??
Comment
-
-
Re: RE: boat won
Originally posted by gschmielerAlso could the loss of all power at 30 mph still be assosciated with the toggle??
Mine was dead twice. Once in the driveway after a rain (coincidence) and once at the gas station prior to a big trip. Towed it over to an auto parts store to borrow a volt meter. They didn't have a loaner but offered to check my battery....that would display the voltage. The clerk checked the battery and the voltage was low 12 something....can't remember. Anyway, he declared it bad. I thought that maybe the voltage was too low to kick on the keypad which is a known issue. But 12 something seemed high enough. I wanted to confirm what was wrong before I bought a battery. I suspected the switch....perhaps corroded on the inside from water. So I dragged it home and put it on the charger to get 13+ volts. Stilll nothing. I checked the switch and that was it. I charged the battery and had it checked at another shop and it was good.
That day it was safety first and I canceled the trip to look for a switch....dealer didn't have it. I should have just swapped the connections and been on my way. A glassy Saturday was lost forever.
Comment
-
-
RE: Re: RE: boat won
That is exactly the way mine was before it broke completely...just intermittent. Occassionally it would lose power (usually just for a second - the boat wouldn't even die). Finally, I hit another boat wake hard enough that the post on the back side of the toggle switch broke completely.Current: 2017 G23
Previous: 2012 210 TE (former PN boat), 2005 210 TE, 2001 X-Star
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by WakeSlayer View PostEveryone who has one of these should just get a spare. It would rescue a lot of weekends.
I'm still running a nice off-on switch with the bilge pump breaker off...but that brand doesn't have on-off-on.
The Deep Blue (or whatever) is the same mfg as from the CC factory. Anyone buy a replacement switch from the dealer lately? What brand was stamped on the side?
Comment
-
-
-
I keep three jumper wires in my boat just in case this problem happens. I jump the relays on the engine. One is the fuel pump and one is the engine computer the last one is the starter and only gets jumped momentarily. This saved me one day I was near a spillway and the wires came off the switch. I was able to hot wire the boat and get to a safe place to fix it.
Comment
-
-
Toggle Switch Replacement
Originally posted by AirTool View PostHas anyone found a quality toggle switch that is not made in China?
The Deep Blue (or whatever) is the same mfg as from the CC factory. Anyone buy a replacement switch from the dealer lately? What brand was stamped on the side?
1. I'm not bashing CC, just the company that provides the toggle switch. Clearly there is a problem. There are too many failures here. My failure was the mechanical connection inside the switch which is uunacceptable for such few cycles. It is not like the switch gets flipped a thousand times a day.
2. I refused to buy the same brand. (David @ White Lake - please forgive me.)
3. I found this one that turned out to be a nice switch. The site says made in USA but it is not. I can't remember where, but I think it is Mexico. It was NOT China and it was not the "Carling" sp? switch.
mfg - Cole Hersee 5586 available here:
http://www.elecdirect.com/product.aspx?id=12484
4. I also installed one of these rubber boots to keep the water out:
(This boot will likely fit on your existing switch.)
mfg - Cole Hersee 81264-07 (yellow)
http://www.elecdirect.com/product.aspx?id=13426
5. Here is another choice:
mfg - Cole Hersee 81255 half boot
http://www.elecdirect.com/product.aspx?id=13407
6. If you foul up the decal around the panel (like I did), don't worry. David at White Lake can get you a replacement.
If I can find my wife's camera, I'll post a pic with the toggle cover on.
Comment
-
Comment