2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

[2gofaster]

RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

Sounds like the TFI module in the distributor. The TFI is the flat thing that bolts to the front that the flat harness plugs into. If you ever have an issue with eratic idle or missing on a TFI equipped Ford EFI, that's usually the cause. You need a special socket to pull it, but you can get that at the parts store.

[intrlaz]

Re: RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

Sounds like the TFI module in the distributor. The TFI is the flat thing that bolts to the front that the flat harness plugs into. If you ever have an issue with eratic idle or missing on a TFI equipped Ford EFI, that's usually the cause. You need a special socket to pull it, but you can get that at the parts store.

Thanks Shane. The dealer told my it could be distributor, non-rotor and cap related. Is the only fix for this a whole new unit?

[swooddc]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

2nd the distributer, mine had to be replaced a plastic piece had cracked/come loose. only fix was to replace. this cleared up the sporadic missing. sounds like the only thing you haven't done.

[2gofaster]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

Not the distributor as a whole. There is a little bolt in module on the front of the distributor. You can get at any parts store. Ask for a TFI module for a 93-95 Ford Lightning with the GT40 351. The same module was used on pretty much any fi'd ford small block with an EEC engine controller. You don't even need to remove the distributor to replace it. They're about $60. I spent a lot of years building supercharged and turbocharged Ford small block engines and the tfi is notorious for causing missing issues.

[intrlaz]

2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

They're about $60. I spent a lot of years building supercharged and turbocharged Ford small block engines and the tfi is notorious for causing missing issues.

Thats great. I will definitely try this before ordering a whole new distributor. Thanks for all the help and I will report back with what I find.

[74green]

RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

I’ve got a GT-40 and had similar issue. Check the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor). Mine was loosely connected and the motor acted like it didn’t want to idle but ran fine once i would give it gas. Once I connected it firmly the boat idle problem was solved and ran great.

[intrlaz]

RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

Update:

Installed new TFI module, still not running on all cylinders. I did read in the service manual that the automotive TFI may not work on this engine.

DanielC: I check the fuel pressure according to your instructions. Grounding the wire does not turn my fuel pumps on. Additionally, my fuel pumps do not turn on when the key is turned. No sound from the pumps for the 2 seconds they are supposed to be on. May be a wiring issue, but they only turn on when the boat is started.

On the new distributor, can I buy one from an autoparts store or do I have to spend the 450 bucks on a marine version? And can I do thbe timing myself?

Thanks all.

[intrlaz]

RE: Re: RE: 2002 SAN GT-40 engine missing

Disregard the fuel pressure issue. I'm an idiot and still figuring out how the keypad works

[SNobsessed]

Intrlaz - Yes, You will need a marine distribtor. The auto ones are not spark protected & can cause an explosion on a boat. If you suspect this to be the problem cause, why not pull the dizzy & send it to a shop. There is one in Prior Lake Minnesota that worked on mine last winter. Setting the timing is easy but you will need a timing light.

[intrlaz]

Update:

So I brought the boat to the dealer who reported low compression on 3 cylinders and absolutely no compression on 1 cyclinder. He also told me they put another distributor in to do some testing, and could not get the boat to run at all without seriously retarding the timing.

I have a feeling the motor is fried. Will update after they pull one of the heads.

[intrlaz]

So far they have found a broken valve spring. Basically rusted to pieces. They pulled the head and said it looked like the motor had taken water. Just rust everywhere. Also saw evidence of detonation in one cylinder that had damaged the top of one of the pistons. They did not find any water in the block though.

I guess I'm looking at a complete rebuild here. I've done some searching and it looks like its going to be expensive, how much I'm not sure. Any thoughts on swapping with an Excalibur instead?

[richard]

intrlaz: do you found milky oil in your engine, wtaer will mix engine oil if had water go inside cyclinder.

[intrlaz]

intrlaz: do you found milky oil in your engine, wtaer will mix engine oil if had water go inside cyclinder.

I actually have a closed cooling system, so there wouldn't be water in the oil with a cracked block. Anyone know what antifreeze and oil mixture would look like?

[richard]

cylinder founder water = oil mix water = milky oil ,I may wrong,but every time I found water in cyclinder,I found milky oil , I have closed cooling system also.

[bobchris]

intrlaz: do you found milky oil in your engine, wtaer will mix engine oil if had water go inside cyclinder.

I actually have a closed cooling system, so there wouldn't be water in the oil with a cracked block. Anyone know what antifreeze and oil mixture would look like?

well just because you have a closed system it will not prevent water or in your case the anti-freeze/water mixture from getting in the oil. If the block is cracked then it's going to let antifreeze into the oil so technically it's not straight water but water none the less