Fogging a motor

[Nautiquehunter]

RE: Why fog motor for storage.

I have fogged my 89 351 pcm through the carb every year since new never had a problem. My 08 has cats on it. I pulled the plugs sprayed and rotated it as per the owners manual. It took 3 days to winterize clean, wax and detail the 08 210 that includes going over every screw and fitting and making sure they are tight. The 89 takes 1 gal antifreeze mixed 50-50 with water to make 2 gal I pore it in the thermostat housing untill it starts to come out the exhaust. The 08 took 5 gals mixed 50-50 that includes the heater engine and exhaust. Then 1 1/2 gal of RV antifreeze in each of the two rear ballast tanks 2 gal in the front tank.

[schiffsnautique]

RE: Why fog motor for storage.

I agree with all of the other posts on this. I change the plugs(Autolite #103) every year on my 93 closed bow. Fog through the carb for a minute and a half and then turn the ignition off. Take plugs out, spray a small amount of fogging oil in each cylinder, pull the plug for the e-tec ignition which is right below the thermostat, and crank the engine about a half turn 3-4 times and then put the plugs back in. Back fill the engine with 4 gallons of r.v. anitfreeze.

[prairiethunder]

RE: Why fog motor for storage.

Crads!

I get to (maybe) help! Fogging sleds ( snowmobiles, Skidoos) every spring; we run the fogging through the intake until it almost stalls out then kill the motor.... takes a couple extra turns to fire at the beginning of the next season but the protection is worth it. Check the plugs once you run it and have cleaned out the fogging CR*P.

Replace if needed (but you new that part!)

P-Thunder

[ponycar]

RE: Why fog motor for storage.

Just did limited winterization on my 05' 196 today (changed the plugs, sprayed with CRC fogging oil from NAPA, removed the impeller, drained other but not all water drain ports yet). I had a quick question regarding turning the crankshaft, which when I attempted to do this it was very hard to turn and I ended up needing socket wrench to even turn it 1/8 of a turn. Any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong since the crankshaft just doesn't seem to want to budge? On another note when should I consider my impeller to be worth replacing? The vanes on the current one are bent, but to what degree should they be bent on a normal operating basis?

Thanks again for all the comments on here.

Scott C

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Why fog motor for storage.

Your crank should be hard to turn. That is the compression that makes you motor work. Yuu can pull the lanyard or the coil wire and spin it with the ignition. Keep a spare impeller on hand. You need to change if there are splits on any of the vanes. Bent is not a problem, it will return to shape.

[DanielC]

RE: Why fog motor for storage.

This is how you fog a motor:
Clean around the spark plug holes with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Spray in fogging oil.
Turn the motor hay hand.
optional: spray in a little more fogging oil.
Replace the spark plugs.

[jmo]

Hey guys,

I am winterizing my excalibur 330 today and wanted to get you oPinions on the procedure the CC dealer I bought it from recommended for fogging the motor:

1. Remove impeller and reassemble RWP

2. Remove the spark arrestor and pop off the PVC valve and put a piece of rubber tube on the openning, start the motor and spray a few shots fogging oil through the tube and then shut it off.

Thoughts on this approach to fog an excal?

Thanks,

JMO

[DanielC]

Not having a Excal engine handy to look at, and you sure the fogging oil will get to all the cylinders?

In a mechanic shop, auto, marine, or heavy equipment, the number one priority is to beat the flat rate. every job has a time to complete assigned to it, and the faster the mechanic and the shop get the job done, the more money both make. Even if the mechanic is only getting an hourly wage, you can bet they are under pressure to beat the flat rate.

With experience and repetition, a good mechanic can "beat the flat rate" and still do a good job. But there is a possibility that somebody may think if a shortcut, that does not do as good of a job.

When you work on your own boat, you usually want to do as good of a job as you possibly can. you are not trying to beat a flat rate, you are trying to hold the value of your possession as high as possible, for as long as possible.
For that reason, if you are working on your own boat at home, you should take the time to do what the PCM factory recommends, even if it does take you all day, and a shop would finish the job in two hours.

[jmo]

Thanks - I don't know fogging through the PVC valve will hit them all hence why I asked for other opinions on how well this approach will work in comparison to pulling the plugs and fogging each cylinder directly.

I don't mind taking the time to utilize the best approach and in fact prefer to; but I thought their approach was fairly clever, especially the part about just removing the impeller and reassembling so you can run for a minute to fog it - assuming of course one hasn't drained the water out of the block.

I will manually fog via the plugs per PCM recommendation.

[jmo]

All set, I Pulled the plugs, fogged each cylinder, rotated the engine and put the plugs back. Two questions though: when rotating the crankshaft does it matter which way you rotate it? Secondly, how many ft-lbs of torque are you supposed to use when tightening the plugs?

Thanks,

JMO

[DanielC]

It does not really matter what way you turn the crank, but the engine does rotate clockwise when you are looking at the front of the engine.
The spark plugs need about 16 Ft-LBS torque, I think.

[DaveNH]

The fogging through the PCV hose will fog the intake but might not get the cylinders/valves completely, the spark plug method gets the more important cylinders. Both work to get the valves coated, from different "ends".

I saw one mention of fogging for a minute and a half, another of a few shots of spray. If you spray through a vacuum hose (like the PCV hose) for maybe 10 seconds, then do each cylinder by hand, you've got it covered.

Just a comment for spring - do your first start-up of the year in the driveway, feeding water with a hose. If you fog thoroughly, then drop it in the lake for 1st start-up, you might be putting a pretty good oil slick into the water. Just my 2 cents!

[jmo]

Thanks - in the Spring do you pull the plugs and rotate the engine by hand again, or do you just fire her up in the driveway?

[DanielC]

I fire the engine up on land, at home, on a hose.
I am not sure on this, but I think fogging oil has a high amount of wax in it, or some other petroleum product that is basically solid at room temperature.
The reason fogging is needed is that after a period of time liquid oils do run off metal surfaces, leaving them exposed to condensation, and possible rusting.

[gtxragtop]

I pull the plugs (all of them at once) spray the fogging solution into the spark plug holes for 3 seconds. I then remove the small solenoid wire off the starter and engage the starter by jumping from the +12 batt terminal on the starter (big RED wire) to the solenoid terminal on the starter that I removed the wire from. DON'T turn the key on. This spins the motor without engaging SPARK or FUEL. I then spray once again for 1 second in each hole, engage the starter again for say 2 seconds then install all the plugs.