Hot water leak...

[wakefun]

In my 2000 SAN hot water is pooling up right at the feet of the driver. At first I thought maybe it was coming from the heater outlet but that is not it. The water seems to be coming from the under the floorboard. After a few hours of running I have pretty soggy carpet (but its warm :o) all around my feet.
Where is it coming from?
Any help is appreciated.
John

[NautiqueJeff]

My guess is the water line into (or out of) your heater, or your heater itself, is leaking. The heat exchanger is located right in front of the kick panel by the driver's feet. It is pretty easy to check. Just remove the kick panel next time you go out and have a look.

Attached is a (highly detailed :lol: :roll: ) diagram of water flow from the engine to the heater.

[wakefun]

Thanks, Jeff. I did not realize the heat exchanger was so close to the kick panel.
I will check it out when we head out tomorrow.
(the diagram was very helpful... :o)
John

[SuperAir]

Wakefun,

You have a leaking/rusted heater core, I doubt the hose is leaking but it is a possibility. What I did as a temp fix is to go to the auto parts store a buy some radiator hose that was the same size hose. I found the hoses that run up to the heater(mine were pinkish in color and are attached to the engine in nautiquejeffs diagram where he shows the shower controls) and removed them from the engine. I cut the new store bought hose to about 11-12" and installed it where I took off the heater hose. This just routes to water going to the heater back to the engine and leak problem was solved. I had to get another heater core from my dealer and replace it. I removed my temp fix, then hooked up the original hoses back up an viola the heater worked again no leaks

[wakefun]

OK, you have to understand that I am one of those guys that pays to have his oil changed - in my boat and cars. Based on what Jeff and SuperAir are telling me, it may be time to take my boat up to the dealer in Portland. However, I hope to get a couple more days out between now and mid October - am I going to do any further damage by running the boat with a bad/faulty heater core or leaking hose? I realize having water pool up in the floor boards is never a good idea (I guestimate about a gallon of water per hour of engine time) but this would only be for a few more weeks until I winterize...
Thanks again for your input. This has all been very helpful - and for what it is worth - this is the 1st real issue I have had with this boat in over 4 years and 350 hours.

[SGY]

I'd install ball shutoff valves--one on each heater hose. This will enable you to shut off the waterflow to the heater. It's real easy to do. Just cut each hose, install the barbed end on each side and clamp them. You can get the shut off valves to fit your heater hose at any ACE hardware store. Get the ones with a drain to allow you to drain the heater without having to pull the hoses off the motor. I use compressed air to drain the heater system. Takes alot less time. I can probably get you pictures of my set up if you would like.

I'd be a little worried about a bunch of water running out of my core onto my floor board. Specifically, how well does it dry? Are you asking for mold and mildew problems?

[MinnesotaNautique]

Wakefun,

I have the exact same hot water issue occuring with a 03. Let me know how you end up resolving this issue...I'd appreciate it.

[Dr.John]

SGY, great idea and I too had thought to do that, however, it was my understanding that the water flow was necessary for at least some of the engine cooling and it would be blocked by the valve! :?: I simply bypassed the heater using a short piece of heater hose. Not elegant, but works fine in an emergency.
If the water flow that is directed to the heater is not required by the engine, then I will definately go with the valves. BTW, I am interested in the type of valve you used since we are dealing with 170* water. I think it's over the limit for PVC, but CPVC may be ok. I could only find plated steel heater shut-off valves at the auto parts store. :cry:
:idea: Might be good also to put a "T" inline so that you could fill the heater with an antifreeze solution to minimize corrosion!

I'd install ball shutoff valves--one on each heater hose. This will enable you to shut off the waterflow to the heater. It's real easy to do. Just cut each hose, install the barbed end on each side and clamp them. You can get the shut off valves to fit your heater hose at any ACE hardware store. Get the ones with a drain to allow you to drain the heater without having to pull the hoses off the motor. I use compressed air to drain the heater system. Takes alot less time. I can probably get you pictures of my set up if you would like.

I'd be a little worried about a bunch of water running out of my core onto my floor board. Specifically, how well does it dry? Are you asking for mold and mildew problems?

[Johnsongc]

Wakefun & Minnesota Nautique:

I had the exact same problem a few months after purchasing my '01 Ski. After extensive searching, it turned out to be the heater core was rusted. My dealer gave me a new core for free and I installed it in about 30 mins. The installation is simple, just a bit hard to reach under my closed bow. I am almost certain that this is your problem wakefun. I remember having the exact same soaking feet while I was out at Lake don Pedro here in California. The funny thing was, I ran the boat for 30 mins with the heater on trying to dry out the carpets!! Little did I know that I was actually making the problem worse.

Hope that helps.

Greg

[SGY]

Dr. John. I didn't think about potential cooling issues. I'll have to look into it. Besides, I installed them to make draining the heater core simpler. We'll see how much easier it really is. What I plan on doing is shutting off one of the valves, open the drain on both valves and with compressed air blowing the water out. In answer to your question, I used the brass valves from Ace. They are big and heavy but still stay out of the way. I'll try and post some pics later this week when I get my boat out again.

[Rick]

With the conventional setup you are actualy stealing water from the intake manifold and returning it to the block drain. A shutoff valve in the hose will not affect the flow of cooling water in the engine.

[SGY]

Ah. Thanks Rick.

[ag4ever]

I installed a brass ball valve, and have left it in the off position since My heater install. When I installed the heater I had to remove the plug where the hot water is supplied, so there is no reason that stopping the flow of water would hurt anything since it was not flowing prior to the installation of the heater.

[Dr.John]

I installed a brass ball valve, and have left it in the off position since My heater install. When I installed the heater I had to remove the plug where the hot water is supplied, so there is no reason that stopping the flow of water would hurt anything since it was not flowing prior to the installation of the heater.

Sounds like I got some bad info. re the blocking off the supply. Must have been on the Bu site! :lol:
Another point of interest is...... if you only installed one valve, what would prevent water from coming in the other side, should you have a core leak? Just thought I'd ask!

[ag4ever]

I am not sure, but I think the return side would be under negative pressure where i tee'd into the return line. But if there is some pressure, then the water would flow through a leaking core. I did not install the valve in case of a leak, but more for the fact that I am in houston where the boating air temp is usually around 95 - 100 degrees, and did not want to add any more heat if I could avoid it. I though a hot core with out air flow would still add heat to under the dash, then my feet. Also that is where the dog likes to curl up to get out of the sun. No sense overheating him too.