Boat overheating early warning signs

[bobchris]

the other mistake is not getting the screen square before you thighten it down, it has to be aligned right at the top and bottom, I like pushing the screen on to the top section first and it seems to keep it square and holds it in place too.

[geoffc210]

I noticed on mine that the voltage would drop at idle - at first I just thought it was from all the stereo equipment I had. At higher speeds the voltage was fine. As the impeller was coming apart it was causing extra load. I have the older two belt arrangement (one for alt and one for pump).

[johnboyy7]

okay ive been reading several of the posts about steam in the exhaust. i took my boat out this weekend. water was cold but not unbarable, it was just nice to get out. anyhow, i feel like i have steam but mainly on the take off before plaining out. thoughts? is this bad? i check my worm clamps, they were tight. impellar has some wear marks, will be replacing before next time out.

[Mikeski]

Johnboy, Is the boat louder than normal or louder than other similar boats? The combination of steam and loud exhaust spells trouble. If you have ever had an impeller donate it's blades to your cooling system they could also limit flow to one of the exhaust manifolds causing excess steam.

[johnboyy7]

I can't I've really noticed it being louder but I will pay closer attention to that next time out. Boat is new to me so I'm not sure if there has been impeller issues before. I guess the only way to check is take offthe manifold?

[Specialized]

Had the boat out the other day and noticed that while running underpower the boat runs nice and cool, however at idle the temps start creeping up to around 180 before I get nervous and put power to the boat. WHat would cause this? I changed the raw water pump wheel (which looked good).

[WakeSlayer]

Johnboy, What was the water temp? Air temp? What does your temp gauge say? Also, get a laser temp reader, they are cheap. Scan it across the engine, intake, and exhaust while the boat is running after warming it up. That will tell you a lot more than steam will.


Specialized, try going through your engine with a 5/16" nut driver and tighten all hose clamps. Verify your strainer had the gasket seated properly, and lastly, if by RWP wheel, you mean the impeller, check the plate and make sure it is on snug, and sealed.

[bobchris]

okay ive been reading several of the posts about steam in the exhaust. i took my boat out this weekend. water was cold but not unbarable, it was just nice to get out. anyhow, i feel like i have steam but mainly on the take off before plaining out. thoughts? is this bad? i check my worm clamps, they were tight. impellar has some wear marks, will be replacing before next time out.

odds are it was just the water temp since it cleared out underpower, never hurst to change the impellar especially if it's a new to you boat and you don't know when it was done last. Just don't put it on backwards.

[bobchris]

Had the boat out the other day and noticed that while running underpower the boat runs nice and cool, however at idle the temps start creeping up to around 180 before I get nervous and put power to the boat. WHat would cause this? I changed the raw water pump wheel (which looked good).

180 isn't going to hurt anything it's normal to heat up a little after a run then to idle, but it might be an issue as well depends on the impellar's age, what t-stat is in stalled and how hot the lake is too and that all assumes you haven't replace a sending unit with an auto version or have a ground/power issue to the dash too.

besides all you have to do is pull the lock out and pick up the RPM's for a minute or too to increase water flow through the engine as your floating and it's going to cool right back down.

[johnboyy7]

Water was 60 or so. Air. 69. I'm going to buy the laser temp today. I tightened every worm clamp I saw. Also the engine is staying right around 165.

[WakeSlayer]

That is just the water temp creating the steam. Your engine should have a 160* stat in it. My vote is you have nothing at all to worry about.

[DanielC]

Here is my thread about my flushing adapter:
http://planetnautique.com/vb3/showth...light=Flushing
Like I said in my thread, you can use the adapter to pressurize the raw water system between the adapter, and the raw water pump. This will enable you to find most of the air leaks.

If you use my adapter when your boat is running good, and is cooling normally, when you have a problem, you can compare the amount of water your raw water pump is drawing, and use that information to help isolate any cooling problems you are having

[bobchris]

Here is my thread about my flushing adapter:
http://planetnautique.com/vb3/showth...light=Flushing
Like I said in my thread, you can use the adapter to pressurize the raw water system between the adapter, and the raw water pump. This will enable you to find most of the air leaks.

If you use my adapter when your boat is running good, and is cooling normally, when you have a problem, you can compare the amount of water your raw water pump is drawing, and use that information to help isolate any cooling problems you are having

you can do the same thing by attaching a hose directly to the inlet hose and tightening the hose clamp around it. The air will self purg if there is a leak and not parts to buy to find a leak on the suction side.