Boat overheating early warning signs

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  • Mikeski
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 2908

    • San Francisco, CA

    • Current 2005 SV 211, due for upgrade! GS22 or GS24 perhaps? Previous

    Boat overheating early warning signs

    Your boat may be trying to tell you something, you need to listen up and interpret what it is saying then act accordingly.

    Long before your temperature gauge or dash light illuminates to notify that your boat is overheating it will likely exhibit a slightly louder exhaust note and billow steam from the exhaust outlet. If the boat suddenly sounds like a dragster out of the hole, you should immediately look to see if the steam is billowing out of the back then look down at the temperature gauge. When your impeller throws a few blades it will likely pump enough water to keep the temperature gauge and warning light off but it will not have enough water in the system to cool the exhaust manifolds. This will result in the exhaust temperature staying high enough to vaporize the water before it exits the rear of the boat, this is displayed by steam billowing from the back of the boat. On cold days your boat may display some steam billowing but the exhaust note should not change. It is the combination of the two that should indicate you are about to overheat the motor.

    In my experience the number one cause of cooling system failure on our boats happens when the cooling water filter canister is not sealed. At an idle it passes air into the impeller and burns it up quickly. This has happened to me with an impeller that was only a few hours old. My old boat's filter became stubborn and was quite difficult to tighten and seal. After replacing 3 impellers one weekend I ended up completely bypassing the water filter. It ran two more summers this way before I sold the boat without the water filter. The filter was not needed in the waterways I and the new buyer used so it was better with it gone. My new boat still has the water strainer but I leave it there with mixed feelings.

    There are other ways your boat will "talk" to you. Learn to listen to your boat, use your nose, and your eyes too. Learn how your boat smells right after it starts, while it is idling but don't breath too much CO.

    Happy to hear input from others here too.

    Mikeski
  • Nautiqueman
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Mar 2004
    • 487

    • Birmingham, AL

    • 1985 Southwind 20 1987 Ski Nautique - New 1989 Ski Nautique - New 1992 Ski Nautique 1997 Ski Nautique 1998 Ski Nautique - New 1989 Martinique 1999 Sport Nautique 1999 Air Nautique 1988 Ski Nautique 1998 Sport 2004 SV-211 - New 2005 SV-211 1993 Ski Nautique 2002 Ski Nautique - New yellow black 2002 Ski Nautique orange black 2002 Ski Nautique blue black 1999 Super Sport Masters blue 2006 220 TE - new Lime Green 1997 Ski Nautique red black 2000 Ski Nautique Masters - Navy

    #2
    RE: Boat overheating early warning signs

    Right on! If the water filter is the culprit for overheating, I too prefer to not have one because the lake I use is clean enough to run the boat without the filter. A leaking water filter bowl has been the most stressful problem I ever experienced with my boat because it is not apparent that it is the source of the problem.

    Comment

    • bobchris
      Banned
      • Apr 2006
      • 359



      #3
      RE: Boat overheating early warning signs

      maybe checking or replacing the rubber gasket and tightening the sea strainer properly would solve the problem, but if your too........ then by-passing it instead is better than doing it the right way to start with.

      Just a thought why fix it when usually it only takes a little water on the gasket or vasoline to make it seal and tighten properly but that's far less work than rerouting hoses to by-pass. No since in fixing something when you can just throw it out because you don't know how to fix it or don't want to take the few seconds it takes to do it right.

      Comment

      • TRDon
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Oct 2007
        • 722

        • MN

        • 1985 2001 1993 Sport carb GT40 2003 SANTE Excalibur

        #4
        RE: Boat overheating early warning signs

        Vasoline is not compatible with rubber parts, it will degrade them. Water is fine or a food grade silicone grease will work as well. Never use petrolium jelly on anything rubber.

        Comment

        • WakeSlayer
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Sep 2005
          • 2069

          • Silver Creek, MN

          • 1968 Mustang

          #5
          RE: Boat overheating early warning signs

          I believe that can be a hard lesson learned in several applications.....
          the WakeSlayer
          1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
          1968 Correct Craft Mustang

          Comment

          • bobchris
            Banned
            • Apr 2006
            • 359



            #6
            Re: RE: Boat overheating early warning signs

            Originally posted by TRDon
            Vasoline is not compatible with rubber parts, it will degrade them. Water is fine or a food grade silicone grease will work as well. Never use petrolium jelly on anything rubber.
            It's not to be used on a rubber as in a latex rubber.

            Nitrile rubber commoningly used in seals is fine. So yes don't use it on your rubber during sexual activity because it will liquify the latex. But we're talking about viton or nitril rubber seals not condums. I've used it for years on o-rings used in A/c systems, fuel injectors and on and on and not one has ever failed or leaked.

            Comment

            • Mikeski
              1,000 Post Club Member
              • Jul 2003
              • 2908

              • San Francisco, CA

              • Current 2005 SV 211, due for upgrade! GS22 or GS24 perhaps? Previous

              #7
              nice hijack...maybe you guys should start a what grease to use on the strainer thread.

              Comment

              • Specialized
                • Jan 2010
                • 15

                • Magnolia, TX

                • 2014 G 21 1998 SN 196

                #8
                Reverse Jack.

                I believe my boat is starting to show some of these signs. As stated above the guage looks good but do notice the steam. After use the engine seem to hold the heat for along time. My flush kit leaks water from the garden hose attach point and I figure that if it leaks it could also let air into the system. So I will check my water filter gasket and probably replace the flush kit. White lake has been great.

                Comment

                • bobchris
                  Banned
                  • Apr 2006
                  • 359



                  #9
                  Originally posted by Mikeski View Post

                  In my experience the number one cause of cooling system failure on our boats happens when the cooling water filter canister is not sealed. At an idle it passes air into the impeller and burns it up quickly. This has happened to me with an impeller that was only a few hours old. My old boat's filter became stubborn and was quite difficult to tighten and seal. After replacing 3 impellers one weekend I ended up completely bypassing the water filter. It ran two more summers this way before I sold the boat without the water filter. The filter was not needed in the waterways I and the new buyer used so it was better with it gone. My new boat still has the water strainer but I leave it there with mixed feelings.

                  Mikeski

                  number one cause as you stated for the failure. Don't really see where anything was high jacked. FYI it's called a sea strainer not cooling water filter canister.

                  Just pointing out that you need to know what the heck your doing when cleaning the sea strainer. Since the number one reason it fails, as you pointed out, is because the Guy that cleaned it didn't put it back together correctly and burned up three impellar and then by-passes the only thing that is going to keep the system free of junk. So now we're just going to let the tranny cooler catch the crap and over heat the tranny instead.

                  Real good advice if you like tearing up your boat.

                  But then if you just take your time, do the job right, it fucntion flawlessly and you keep all the stuff you run over and don't see out of your cooling system.
                  Last edited by bobchris; 01-21-2010, 02:40 PM.

                  Comment

                  • bobchris
                    Banned
                    • Apr 2006
                    • 359



                    #10
                    Originally posted by Specialized View Post
                    Reverse Jack.

                    I believe my boat is starting to show some of these signs. As stated above the guage looks good but do notice the steam. After use the engine seem to hold the heat for along time. My flush kit leaks water from the garden hose attach point and I figure that if it leaks it could also let air into the system. So I will check my water filter gasket and probably replace the flush kit. White lake has been great.
                    as part of your regular service before the season or periodiclly if your skiing year round is to check all of the hose clamps on the suction side of the rwp as well as paying attention to small air bubbles in the strainer after you remove, clean and re-install the bowl (if it is tilleted at an angle it's a little easier to see inside of the bowl to check for leaks). It's usually easier if you place the screen on the top portion of the strainer first, lube up the gasket and make sure its seated flat in the bowl before you screw the bowl on to the top section of the strainer. it really doesn't matter how clean you think your lake is becaue as soon as you go to the back of a cove or channel your going to suck something up into to it, alge, trash, sea weed and so many other possible things people have thrown into the lake.
                    Last edited by bobchris; 01-21-2010, 02:42 PM.

                    Comment

                    • east tx skier
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Apr 2005
                      • 1561

                      • Tyler, TX


                      #11
                      Any suggestions on what to use to lube the gasket? I've got an abundance of food grade silicone sealant spray that I use on keg gaskets, hoses, and quick disconnects in another hobby. Would that do the trick? Or should I break out the KY or similar water based lubricant?
                      1998 Ski Nautique (Red/Silver Cloud), GT-40, Perfect Pass Stargazer 8.0z (Zbox), Acme #422, Tunable Rudder.

                      Comment

                      • WakeSlayer
                        1,000 Post Club Member
                        • Sep 2005
                        • 2069

                        • Silver Creek, MN

                        • 1968 Mustang

                        #12
                        Not sure where there was a hijack, either....

                        You should check ALL your hoseclamps periodically. I just leave a 5/16 nut driver in the boat. Takes 5 mintues to do the whole engine worth. I have never once had an issue with a strainer.
                        the WakeSlayer
                        1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
                        1968 Correct Craft Mustang

                        Comment

                        • bobchris
                          Banned
                          • Apr 2006
                          • 359



                          #13
                          Originally posted by east_tx_skier View Post
                          Any suggestions on what to use to lube the gasket? I've got an abundance of food grade silicone sealant spray that I use on keg gaskets, hoses, and quick disconnects in another hobby. Would that do the trick? Or should I break out the KY or similar water based lubricant?
                          not a big fan of using the silicone spray it seems to get a little tacky pretty quick but all you really need to do is dip it in some water or coat the face with water or some lite oil, cooking oil is fine to use. The main thing to look out for is that the gasket is seated fully in the bowl and not at a slight angle, If its cocked some it has a tendancy to bind when your screwing it on and not seat and seal right.

                          Comment

                          • east tx skier
                            1,000 Post Club Member
                            • Apr 2005
                            • 1561

                            • Tyler, TX


                            #14
                            Sounds good. Thanks. I'll save the silicone for the beer fittings.
                            1998 Ski Nautique (Red/Silver Cloud), GT-40, Perfect Pass Stargazer 8.0z (Zbox), Acme #422, Tunable Rudder.

                            Comment

                            • WakeSlayer
                              1,000 Post Club Member
                              • Sep 2005
                              • 2069

                              • Silver Creek, MN

                              • 1968 Mustang

                              #15
                              ^^ That, and not being aware you chucked it overboard when you dumped your strainer cup.

                              I have never "lubed" the strainer gasket with anything other than the water it is already in. LIke Chris said, just get it on straight.
                              the WakeSlayer
                              1999 Super Air - Python Powered <-- For Sale
                              1968 Correct Craft Mustang

                              Comment

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