My new boat has ZR-409, which has the same impeller mounting as the ZR-6. On all my past boat with the 5.6 V-belt driven pump it was easier to remove the pump completely to change the impeller. Is this still the case with the ZR-6 pump driven by the serpentine belt? Boat is a 230 V-drive so its a bit akward to get to, unlike a direct drive.
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A d m i n i s t r a t o r
- Mar 2002
- 16454
- Lake Norman
- Mooresville, NC
- 2025 SAN G23 PNE 1998 Ski Nautique 1985 Sea Nautique 1980 Twin-Engine Fish Nautique
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I know about the three bolts to remove the impeller, but is it easier to take the entire pump off with the two mounting bolts and replace the impeller on a bench? Its tought on a v-drive to see whats your doing.2012 Team Ski Nautique ZR409
2011 Sport Nautique 200
2008 SANT 230
2003 Air Nautique 226
1988 Martinique
1979 Nautique
1978 Tique
1976 Tique (First New Boat)
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Although I've never removed the entire pump (PCM block mounted pump) to R&R an impeller I definitely agree changing an impeller on a v is more of a pain than dd. This week I removed the pumps off of two 6.0 engines (customers are putting them in cars so didn't need the raw water stuff) and once the paint seal breaks the two bolts remove quite easily. So, the 1st time you remove the pump it might be a pain but the 2nd time not so much. Might be worth a try and decide for yourself if it is worth it.
However, to get to the 2 mounting bolts I find it easier to remove the front housing w/impeller. Since you've already got it out to get to the bolts I suspect it is easier to just go ahead and change it without removing the pump. Let us know what you decide works best.
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It's much easier to remove just the impeller than the entire pump. You can access the 3 bolts for the front housing through the holes in the drive pulley. These bolts ( I believe they are 5/16") are retained to the housing by o-rings, so you don't have to worry about dropping them into the bilge. Even an impeller switch on a PCM v-drive shouldn't take more than a few minutes.
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Originally posted by IDSkier View PostIt's much easier to remove just the impeller than the entire pump. You can access the 3 bolts for the front housing through the holes in the drive pulley. These bolts ( I believe they are 5/16") are retained to the housing by o-rings, so you don't have to worry about dropping them into the bilge. Even an impeller switch on a PCM v-drive shouldn't take more than a few minutes.
Jaybird - I just don't see how it would be easier to remove the pump. It might be easier to take the pulley off first if you have trouble seeing that bottom cover bolt w/ the pulley on.
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Thx AirTool,
I have changed the impeller on the old style belt driven countless times and it was just always best just to remove the pump, espically on the 226 with a PCM Excal 330, where only a contortionist can to get to the pump. Just got the 230 with the ZR-409 and getting ready for spring.
Thanks for the adviceLast edited by jaybird; 01-31-2010, 10:54 AM.2012 Team Ski Nautique ZR409
2011 Sport Nautique 200
2008 SANT 230
2003 Air Nautique 226
1988 Martinique
1979 Nautique
1978 Tique
1976 Tique (First New Boat)
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Not a bg deal.
Tools needed:
1/4" drive ratchet
3" extension
10mm socket
Take serp belt off, loosen three bolt thru water pump belt pully Note: their are o-rings on the inside of bolt housing so do not completly remove bolts from outer pump.
pull entire assy away from pump housing. Note: their are indicators on the top that say TOP!
Remove old impeller from housing, install new impeller on shaft of pump re-install into housing in correct allignment , re attach bolts thru pully assy, tighten bolts to about 15ft pounds (hand tight)
Re-install serp belt.
I have done this procedurs on V-drives in less than 5 min without rempoving entire pump....
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Thanks,
Perfect, alwasy nice to be prepared...2012 Team Ski Nautique ZR409
2011 Sport Nautique 200
2008 SANT 230
2003 Air Nautique 226
1988 Martinique
1979 Nautique
1978 Tique
1976 Tique (First New Boat)
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