Help on tightening packing nuts on SuperSport

[flsurflover]

I have a 98 SuperSport (v-drive) and need to tighten my packing nuts.

First, is it easiest to do this from the port side or starboard side?

Second, both nuts look to be the same size, right? What type and size wrenches should I use? I have a 15" Crescent wrench that opens to 1-3/4" and it was too small to get around either nut. So do I need to buy two open-end wrenches, and if so- what sizes? Do I need to get special wrenches that have shorter handles?

This job looks do-able if I just have the right two wrenches.

[Rick]

You can use 2 18" crescents or use what we used to call monkey wrenches. They look like an F with the lower part of the f opening and closing Remember these shouldnt be gorilla tight You may be acle to use channel lock pliers.

[flsurflover]

Thanks.
I know the nuts are reverse threaded. Which is the lock nut that I'm supposed to loosed first and tighten last? Is it the one closest to the v-drive unit, or the one closer to the prop?

[SWCC-PART-MAN]

the nut on the prop side is the "jam nut". your right about reverse thread. also ricks advise on the "monkey wrenches" work like a charm. remember...1 drip per second. good luck
jason

[flsurflover]

Thanks SWCC.
Gotcha. 1 drip per second while in gear.
And monkey wrench=pipe wrench.

[Rick]

You can use pipe wrenches. The monkey wrench has no teeth just 2 flat sides like a crescent wrench. The lock nut is reverse thread I don't think the packing nut is.

[SWCC-PART-MAN]

the threads are the same for both nuts. also, remember to install the saftey wire.
jason

[flsurflover]

Thanks again guys.

[SWCC-PART-MAN]

thats what we are here for bro.

[flsurflover]

OK. I gave it a shot last night and tested it this afternoon. I can't tell if it was worse but it definitely was no better. Still dripping a lot, I'd guess 5-10 drops/second in gear.

I used 2 pipe wrenches, and convered the teeth with duct tape to try and scar the nuts as little as possible.

I worked on it by laying down in the starboard locker. I got the safety wire off pretty easily. Then I loosened the reverse-threaded jam nut, the smaller one that is closer to the prop. So looking at it from the stern, toward the bow, the jam nut loosened by rotating it clockwise. I backed it off several turns.

So then I wanted to tighten the big nut to slow down the drip rate. Assuming it was reverse threaded too, I turned it the opposite way, counter-clockwise, to tighten. It seemed to turn easier and easier as I turned it. I stopped after rotating it a half-turn. I turned it back clockwise to where it had been, then kept going. It started tightening up after about a quarter-turn past where it had been. I tightened it as tight as I could get it using only my hand, no wrench. Then I turned the jam nut counter-clockwise to tighten it up to the the big nut, and then I used the pipe wrench to really snug it up.

Reattaching the safety wire turned out to be the toughest part. The wire must go through two holes. One on a molded nub off the big nut, and the other through the brass collar at the base of the threads, just forward of the hose that covers the stuffing. The problem was the back part of the hole in the rear collar butts up against that rubber hose that covers the stuffing. When you poke the wire through, it justs goes into the end of the hose. I had to loosen the two forward hose clamps on the rubber hose, then use needle-nose pliers and wiggle them between the hose and the collar to grab the wire and pull it up and out. It worked though.

I twisted on the safety wire, and tightened up the two hose clamps I had loosened. Then today I put her in the water and she still drips way too much.

So which do you think it is:
a) the stuffing needs to be replaced because it can't be tightened up enough anymore.
b) I need to tighten the big nut more, clockwise with a wrench, because I didn't get it tight enough by hand.
c) I turned the big nut the wrong way. I should have kept turning it counter-clockwise past half-a-turn to tighten it up.

I'm leaning toward (b), refuse to believe it's (a) yet, but am really wondering about (c).?

Any advice?

[Rick]

Good start. I beleive you need to do B you are going the right way. try tightening it 1 full turn to 1 1/2 turns. If it starts to get really hard you may be at ther end of the threads in the nut and you will have to repack.

[flsurflover]

Thanks Rick! I'll try that this week.

[SWCC-PART-MAN]

when your making these adjustments have the boat in the water. a lift is sweet but if the ramp is clear you can make the repair on the trailer. that way you dont get blown around the lake. you can make adjustments and check but wait to re-apply saftey wire till the adjustment is done. also, just pull wire from top nut and not the lower "coller". you might get luckey and not have to move the saftey wire. if the adjustment requires it there are 2 more holes in the "coller" (by the rubber hose) for better wire application if the "molded nub" isn't lined up straight. ATTACH WIRE BEFORE USE!!

[flsurflover]

Tonight I used channel-lock pliers on the big nut and tightened it up another half turn, almost to where it had been (should have left the safety wire where it was!). The big nut started to get harder to turn there so I stopped. I'll take her to the boat ramp tomorrow and check it again with the safety wire off.

If I do need to take it off the trailer to get off the ramp, is it OK to run it around the lake at normal speeds without the safety wire on, as long as it's not more than an hour?

[SWCC-PART-MAN]

i sure dont recomend it. if you shift in reverse you have the chance of completly backing the packing nut off. you wouldn't know till there was alot of water in the boat. so it may leave you in a bind. can you float the boat off the trailer and tie it to a dock, make the adjustment and then set the wire? just a small precaution to keep you out of a BIG bind. put it this way, i wouldnt run my $50,000 boat without it with friends and family in it. it only takes a few minuites to do it...right. remember 1 drip per second.